anyone here or know anyone with a built motor with a jackson supercharger iv been hungry for more power lately but i have s2s2 cams with 11:5:1 wiseco pistons is that safe for a supercharge boost?

 

PM Mythias....


He seems to have good info.

 

Compression on the R is high, therefore you need to run lower boost levels, Normally under 8lbs.

 

mine is higher i have 11:5:1 wiseco pistons

 

Well the higher compression the less boost you want to run. I run about 7lbs on my stock internals now. It would probably be better to go all motor, since you want to run higher compression, or lower the compression if you want to put on a supercharger.

 

my motor is 11:5:1 wesico piston eagle rods skunk 2 cams made 200whp on the dyno...if i did hondata with the jackson and tuned it i should be ok?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeR15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my motor is 11:5:1 wesico piston eagle rods skunk 2 cams made 200whp on the dyno...if i did hondata with the jackson and tuned it i should be ok? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Your current modifications are not ideal for a supercharger setup. I can give you alot of good advice and information, but I need to know your goals, and the amount of boost you plan to run on the JRSC.

I do advise you to go back to OEM cams, as you are more likely to lose power with the skunk2 over OEM with a JRSC. Additionally, you are going to want new injectors and an adjustable FPR in lieu of the FMU along with the tunable engine management system (This is much more reliable than the FMU, and essentially needed since you have internal modifications running 11.5:1). You can run the car reliably at 11.5:1 with the JRSC, but there is no room for error in the tune.

That being said, I will say that 11.5:1 is not considered optimal for a JRSC setup but very possible if done properly with a good tune. Please send me a PM, as I could easily write a full page on the subject.

 

Mythias....

I changed out the idler pulley this weekend..... now I just have some injector noises. OT... What you need to change idler pulley: 10 and 12 metric with extension and ratchet, 14 m long freaking wrench and beer. That 14 on the pulley is tough to get out. Oh well... I feel much better now.


-Shawn... who is happy that he can boost with less racket.

 

ah yes, the JRSC

that was fun stuff

 

Mythias

 

I ran 10-11 psi on stock internals for a few years with no problems. Will be putting a similar setup on the new R with an intercooled manifold and a few other goodies.

 

I’m tired of this misconception people keep saying about having high compression and how you must run low boost.

Just because you have HIGH compression does not mean you cannot run HIGH boost. You just have less of a room for error in your tuning process.

What I mean is when your getting your car dynoed the tuner is theoretically guessing what the fuel and timing values are. You do a dyno run look at the O2 readings for fuel and power curve for timing. Then adjust and try again. Like a trial and error process

But if the tuner makes to much a drastic adjustment and then do a run the consequences could be catastrophic.

If I was to “do” boost all over again my motor would be sleeved and be running AEM/Hondata/Uberdata/Chrome before it would ever seen any type of forced air.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citrus3000psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I’m tired of this misconception people keep saying about having high compression and how you must run low boost.

Just because you have HIGH compression does not mean you cannot run HIGH boost. You just have less of a room for error in your tuning process.

What I mean is when your getting your car dynoed the tuner is theoretically guessing what the fuel and timing values are. You do a dyno run look at the O2 readings for fuel and power curve for timing. Then adjust and try again. Like a trial and error process

But if the tuner makes to much a drastic adjustment and then do a run the consequences could be catastrophic.

If I was to “do” boost all over again my motor would be sleeved and be running AEM/Hondata/Uberdata/Chrome before it would ever seen any type of forced air.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Finally!

I was wondering when someone was going to step-up and set the record straight. Shawn @ Church Automotive already told me about running 10psi on my stock ITR motor, etc. but I gave up trying to convince the knuckle heads on the intarweb that it can be done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citrus3000psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just because you have HIGH compression does not mean you cannot run HIGH boost. You just have less of a room for error in your tuning process.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought I said that in my previous post.

 

I wasn't saying he couldn't boost with high compression. I was just informing him that he wouldn't be able to run excessive boost levels. As I also stated that I am running about 7lbs on stock internals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PY TYPE R 483 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wasn't saying he couldn't boost with high compression. I was just informing him that he wouldn't be able to run excessive boost levels. As I also stated that I am running about 7lbs on stock internals. </TD></TR></TABLE>

*Shields up captain!*

 

Higher compression should yield more power under boost as opposed to lower compression. The problem is detonation.