On the net tutorials it says to cut A3 and A7
and run those wires from the ecu side to engine..
wtf do u do the the other ends of the A3 and A7 wire...
cuz on my friends car i think those two injectors arent
working...plz reply back....thanks

 

u just tape up the other end...but u use the ends from the plug and run the 2 new wires to the engine bay

 

in regards to
"cut A3 and A7
and run those wires from the ecu side to engine..
wtf do u do the the other ends of the A3 and A7 wire..."

Connect the yellow wire from the dpfi injector to the #1 injector (brown wire, cyl #1).

Connect the red wire from the dpfi injector and run it to the #3 injector (blue wire, cyl #3).

Connect the A3 wire to the #2 injector (red wire, cyl #2).

Connect the A7 wire to the #4 injector (yellow wire, cyl #4).

ok i hope your not going to get confused...

on a dpfi car/ecu ||| on a mpfi car/ecu
A1 = yellow 2 ||| A1 = Brown, injector #1,cyl #1
A3 = yellow 1 ||| A3 = Red, injector # 2, cyl #2
A5 = red 2 ||| A5 = Light Blue, injector # 3, cyl #3
A7 = red 1 ||| A7 = Yellow 1, injector # 4, cyl #4

on a dpfi car there's 2 injectors; A5 and A7 run to the main injector and A1 and A3 run to the aux injector. You'll be taking 2 wires off of each to signal 2 other injectors for mpfi....

connect the other ends of those wires to the other injectors / injector clips...

keep us posted...

 

do a search on dpfi to mpfi coversion and you will find posts with links to sites with all the step by step info i just did one a few weeks ago and it went smoothly

 

okay...i got all this stuff hooked
up correctly......i was correct
how i had it.....now
the problem is that the car
only revs up to 3k rpm and it stops..
could this be bad injectors?

 

what ecu are you using and describe a little about the 3krpm reving....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ivanson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay...i got all this stuff hooked
up correctly......i was correct
how i had it.....now
the problem is that the car
only revs up to 3k rpm and it stops..
could this be bad injectors?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had this problem when I did my mpfi swap. It turned out to be that the 4 wires running to the engine bay from the ecu were 'interferring' with each other. I had 2 going to the injectors and 2 going to the distributor.

What I did was wrap each of the two dizzy wires individually with 2 layers of electric tape, then put wire loom around each one. Don't know why but those 2 wires together were causing my problems. Good luck!

 

i used a pm6 sometimes a pg7....
well the car when i try to rev it....
it stops a 3000 and feels like a cutoff...
my other friend said it could be the injectors.

 

obd0 LS injectors...1.8l

 

what distributor are you using when i tried to use an obd1 dizzy with obd 0 ecu thats what my car did

 

LS injectors are not a problem.

Did you have to take a timing belt off and put it back on?
If so - recheck timing.
If not:

Do you have any engine codes?
Troubleshoot them.

 

the check engine turns on...
the timing is correct and the dizzy is an
SI....my hf dizzy worked with this swap on
my car and i tryed on his ...but it did the same thing...

 

Ok, now count the ECU flashes (LED in the little window on the ECU).
They designate the trouble code.

 

ill look into it...
thanks

 

haha. Yeah, figure out what code your ECU is throwing.
Trouble codes were made to aid in diagnosing problems, and the only way to tell what some problems are and aren't. It's the most important thing you need to know when troubleshooting a car.

It's probably CPS or CKP
If your wiring is correct and you get a 3000 RPM rev limit, it's usually the Igniter in the Distributor. I hear this all the time.

 

I was getting a code 4 (crank angle sensor) plus the car wouldn't rev past 3000 rpm on my mpfi swap. I happened to read one thread on h-t about the wires going from the ecu to the dizzy interferring with each other, so i tried wrapping them with electrical tape, and it solved my problem. $1 for electrical tape is better than $90 for an ignitor or $200 for a dizzy. Its worth a shot.

You can see my post above for reference.

 

The 3k cutoff IS the crank angle sensor. I had to temp fix it with crappy wires running in through the door. Even then they'd frequently cause it to pop a CEL, so I'd have to jiggle them and restart. REALLY annoying when trying to accel up an on-ramp. I ordered a crapload of mcmaster.com's best 16awg non-silicone wire (cheaper and better than anything radioshack has), RE-rewired my entire mpfi/obd1 harness, and it's golden now. I also twisted those two wires together (like they do in cat-5 wire), just for extra insurance. All I need is another OEM 14-pin connector and it'll look bone-stock.

 

so it could be them 2 wires running
towards the dizzy...
ill try using electrical tape..
thanks

 

for the record..i only work on this car on weekends.....
not home during the week...
well now the car aint starting....
could the dizzy be bad....
i changed those two wires to the dizzy
to 16 gauge...

 

i changed the dizzy...
and the car starts...
i also changed the wires to 16gauge...
now it revs to 5k.....i think
im still off by like 1.5k to redline...
do i also have to change the injectors
wiring to 16gauge???....imma try wrapping
them wires with tape....ill post in a bit....

 

Are you still getting the check engine light. You might want to check your dizzy wiring again. I remember i had a code and i checked it like 9000 times, so i just flipped the two wires around just for the hell of it, and it worked. I think the helms wiring diagram might have actually been wrong, to this day i still know i had the wiring correct according to the diagram. God I hate stressful wiring, good luck. I finished my DPFI to MPFI swap about 4-5 months ago, so glad its over. I damn near forgot everthing too. Rywire knows his **** well, he always remembers, every freakin wire he remembers. LOL. Listen to him.

 

so the wirings being backwards could
not raise the rpms.....ill try that...
thanks....

 

For once.
Count the flashes.

Then there will be no guessing.
"oh maybe this... oh maybe that".
Just the answer where exactly to look.

 

dude...i dont get no check engine
lite....only get codes from the ecu
that are useless....some azn honda
tweaker is gonna fix it for my friend...
i guess he is just gonna change the whole
wiring from the dash to the engine bay...
thanks anyways guys and breezys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ivanson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only get codes from the ecu
that are useless....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please stop working on your car and take it some where.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ivanson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some azn honda
tweaker is gonna fix it for my friend</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude almost had it, take it to someone that does not tweak.