I've been having problems with the lockup clutch on my torque converter hunting into and out of lockup on the highway, pretty constantly (and getting worse) and randomly (i.e. not related to throttle position). I checked the lockup solenoid today. FSM recommends 14-16 ohms resistance on each terminal, mine were 12.8. Pretty close, but how close is acceptable?
Putting 12v across the terminals I can hear the solenoids click but one of them does have a much "weaker" sounding click than the other.

Is this solenoid going bad? Would the solenoid, in the condition I have it, be causing my problems?

Thanks,
Darel

 

Anyone?

 

try this first.........remove solenoids, clean the screen , get air pressure and blow in the passages

 

Listen to the man
Here's the illustration:
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...USING

P

 

Great! A potential quick/cheap fix! I'll do it tomorrow and update. Thanks guys!

Darel

 

Hey?? Who you calling cheap?

P

 

ME! If you saw my Honda you'd know why. At least it was free.

 

No dice. Removed solenoid, blew out passages w/ compressed air, re-cleaned the already surprisingly clean screens. Took it for a ride and no change at all.

I gotta say right now, there's no way I'm dropping $100 for a new solenoid on a car I paid nothing for (and is worth even less). So before I go waste an afternoon at the Pick-N-Pull, will replacing the solenoid solve the problem? It appears to me that this solenoid is the only real control method for the lockup clutch since it's both the sensor and the trigger, so I would have to say yes, but I could be wrong. What do you all think?

Thanks again,
Darel

 

In most cases, most functions of transmission operation are a series of go/no go decisions based on apply pressures from one area conbined with a signal from another will cause something to happen.
Take a downshift function:
In GM vehicles, it's a sampling between the pressure from the Throttle Valve compared to the governor pressure. Only when the system saw a tv pressure higher than governor pressure, would the trans downshift.

This is much like what happens with your lock-up converter function. I believe Honda supplies apply pressure to the lock-up portion from the 4th clutch circuit (thus allowing the T/C Lock-up to function only once 4th is applied) for application purposes and the T/C Lock-up solenoid to interupt the sourse or the drain. IE: does the solenoid pressurize the Converter Clutch, or does it vent (release) the pressure. I believe it vents pressure by merit of those screens you were introduced to. (catches any debris from the converter so as to not contaminate the rest of the Trans.)
Thus, If it stays released, the T/C Lock-up will not apply, If it closes, it does.

Your low resistance reading could be indicative of a short (resistance will lower as the path becomes shorter) and could effect the electromagnet portion of the solenoid to the point where it can't close against the pressure all the time.

 

Thanks Paul, that's exactly what I was thinking was happening. Glad to hear someone thinks of it the same way I do. Going to get a new (junkyard) solenoid in a few weeks then.

Anyone think I can do damage to the TC clutch if I drive the car like this for a little while? Maybe unplug the solenoid and live with the blinking light?

Thanks!
Darel

 

Hey, I'll respond to any name.
Go ahead and drive it. No T/C L-U won't effect anything but gas milage and your nerves as the engine busses along at 3000rpm at 50.

Glad I could help

P

 

Thanks P! Sorry about the name, I just got done sending an email to a Paul, so....

Anyway, it's only a 200 rpm difference, so it's not going to hurt either my nerves or (noticeably) my fuel economy.

Thanks again!

 

Did you try adjusting the throttle cable? Manual sayes it can cause the hunting thing.

 

Yup, I loosened it a hair and no difference. My manual says adjust to where lever just starts to move as RPMs begin to rise, which is where it was, so I didn't want to go much further.

Darel

 

This is one of the most perplexing problems I've encountered with older Accords. My 1994 started doing this about 150/K miles. It is subtle, but gets anoying once you know its there and you can feel it hunting while expressway driving. I tried the following without fixing the problem:

Change Trans Fluid three times.
Flush Trans, replace fluid twice afterwards.
Adjusted throttle cable.
Adjusted kickdown cable.
Replaced both solenoid sets and gaskets, cleaning any gunk out of their ports.
Removed and cleaned the Shifter Position Switch. Checked for proper connection/contact being made.
Replaced TCM.
Reset TCM.

Dealer said Trans needed rebuilt as it was getting tired and it would only be $1800. NOT!

Daughter driving the car now for over a year, car now has over 200/K miles and still runs fine with the occasional hunting still there. Only hurts gas mileage a little. No other harm done, so, leaving a sleeping dog lay.

 

That's disappointing to hear. Since a solenoid will only cost me $5 at the yard I'll pick one up next time I'm there, but not hold my breath. This is definitely not an occasional thing, it almost constantly goes up and down about 200 rpm, so it'll be extremely annoying to have to live with it all the time. If the new solenoid doesn't fix the problem I'll just unplug it and live with the blinking "S" light.

Thanks!
Darel

 

is your tranny shifting normal? i took the plug off mine and touched the terminals to 12v and it unstuck , and that worked for awhile but came back.
i also put in a junkyard solenoid and it lasted like 2 months and came back. there may be something more serious going on in the trans.