i need to get an obd0 ecu for my motor swap but i need to know whats the best ecu for my setup. i have a b18 with a b20 head and b16 internals. whats a good ecu with a high rev. my friend has a teg and its shuts off at like 6800 i think. thats just not going to cut it. i cant get it chipped right away so if i could start with something that could rev a little higher to start i should be good. o yea its going into a civic 98 ex and its gunna be wired to run an obd0 ecu. thanks for the help

 

1. Why do you want to run an OBD0 ecu when the OBD1 stuff has so much better support?

2. Any stock ecu you put in there will be wrong. Period. It won't run right, and can cause damage to your motor. You need to get it tuned, and throwing a random chip in there is not tuning, it's guessing.

 

a 90-91 integra non-vtec ecu will do, but the redline isn't great.

 

I guess just take the B18 ECU and have the rev limiter takin out. What about useing the pm6 and having it re-tuned?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have the rev limiter takin out</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't do that.

 

Well what if you just set it higher? And get a shift light. I am only saying this because I will be doing a B18A in my civic and wanted to knoe what the best way to go is, without going OBD1.

 

The problem is if you rev the crap out of a B18A/B or B20 it will not live very long. Sure there is someone out there that has done it but your motor will not live long. Keep the rev limiter in there these engines were not made for higher revs.

 

Yeah but if you use like APR rod bolts like I will be doing you can rev a little higher then 6900. I am only thinking like 7500. Know more then that.

 

i dont think the rod bolts are the weak link.

and dont remove the redline, just move it up.

and correct me if im wrong but you will have to add some more fuel and spark maps to the chip because there wont be any beyond the stock maps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LamRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think the rod bolts are the weak link.

and dont remove the redline, just move it up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LamRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and correct me if im wrong but you will have to add some more fuel and spark maps to the chip because there wont be any beyond the stock maps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The ecu will just use the last row of the map and keep repeating it. Sometimes this works, as the VE of the engine is falling off up top, and occasionally it somewhat matches the last value. Ideally you would extend the maps though, to get the best tune.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LamRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think the rod bolts are the weak link.

and dont remove the redline, just move it up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Um, is anyone else wondering why an obd-2 car that is running essentially, an LS engine, wants to convert to obd-0? Maybe you've got a good reason, but I didn't see it here.
If you insist on going ahead with this, the 90-91 PR4 is going to be the closest obd-0 to correct maps.

I'm running this same ecu on my B18b (with ITR pistons, I/H/E and adjustable cam gears...very similar to your setup). It does alright, but ran a little lean under certain conditions. I had to add an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and bump the pressure up a couple psi. It 95% fixed the problem.

I second the notion about going to obd-1. Its on my list of things to do. All the chipping support and aftermarket options are clear advantages.
I'm drooling over the new Hondata...all those features, easy to use and relatively cheap.