ksport lca or omni lca?
Dont get either. The only thing they are used for is bling. Other than that, some of them will actually alter your suspension geometry (like if your lowered a certain amount, some of those LCAs will actually pull your wheels in, etc). Also, since some are made of aluminum, probably might not be as strong as you think, and aluminum tends to snap instead of bending. You save something like 2.5 pounds per side. You will probably never feel the difference. Just go oem
Trending Topics
It's weight reduction in a critical place. Any reduction in unsprung weight will reduce the amount of work the dampers have to do to keep the car handling the way it should. Plus the reduction in total vehicle weight is always welcome. Admittedly 99% of the people using these are doing it for the bling, but when you run out of other things that reduce unsprung weight they do nothing but help.
What most of them do is actually pull the wheels in on lowered cars to have that tucked look and allows you a little bit more lowering. So, in some cases, it actually moves away from stock geometry
And the unsprung weight statement. Well, on a street car this 2.5 lbs is really nothing. THe tolerances and such of these weight savings are no priftable on a street car. And for a stress component like this, strength over weight might be the key. Look up the weight on the function 7 arms and you will see what I am talking about.
And the unsprung weight statement. Well, on a street car this 2.5 lbs is really nothing. THe tolerances and such of these weight savings are no priftable on a street car. And for a stress component like this, strength over weight might be the key. Look up the weight on the function 7 arms and you will see what I am talking about.
^^ mine that i posted above came with a spacer that goes between the LCA and the sway bar bracket. (didn't know that it came with that) it help ALOT when i put on my 23mm itr sway, and lined up the brackets at a 90 instead on a angle. And also it had holes for the ABS lines that i have. the ones posted above do not.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RalliartRsX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What most of them do is actually pull the wheels in on lowered cars to have that tucked look and allows you a little bit more lowering. So, in some cases, it actually moves away from stock geometry
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not true. If you take a look at the majority of these forged aluminum rear LCA's on the market, you will not find many that alter the suspension geometry, unless they advertise it as so. The distance between bushings is the same as stock; go ahead and measure them.
And in order to do what you are saying (pull the wheels in and allow more lowering)
a. Unless you are using rediculous offset/wide wheels/tires, you can lower well past tucking without changing the LCA's. More negative camber will allow even more lowering, although there is no point in lowering the car that far.
b. To actually pull the entire wheel inwards, you'd need to change the rear track width entirely, meaning the UCA as well. While this can be done with an adjustable UCA, there is really no point. You'll have rediculous toe out unless you shorten the compensator arm too, in which case your suspension geometry is shot.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not true. If you take a look at the majority of these forged aluminum rear LCA's on the market, you will not find many that alter the suspension geometry, unless they advertise it as so. The distance between bushings is the same as stock; go ahead and measure them.
And in order to do what you are saying (pull the wheels in and allow more lowering)
a. Unless you are using rediculous offset/wide wheels/tires, you can lower well past tucking without changing the LCA's. More negative camber will allow even more lowering, although there is no point in lowering the car that far.
b. To actually pull the entire wheel inwards, you'd need to change the rear track width entirely, meaning the UCA as well. While this can be done with an adjustable UCA, there is really no point. You'll have rediculous toe out unless you shorten the compensator arm too, in which case your suspension geometry is shot.
As stated above, if you have a well balanced suspension and the car is at a reasonable ride height you should be fine. Now for all the guys who want to ride "slam" and are surprised when and if these snap....goodjob.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post






