Or at least for the most part? And which ones are the fronts. I am guessing the shorter springs with the longer threaded part?

Sorry, I searched and couldn't find a write up for installation on a 99-00 civic coupe.

I have the rear shocks too, they are just not pictured.

 

yes, you would always assemble befor you put it on the car. the longer sleeve goes on the rear

 

the longer SPRINGS are supposed to go in the FRONT.

200f/180r


Modified by Tyson at 3:09 PM 11/2/2005

 

slammed_93_hatch ment that the longer "sleeves" go in the rear.

Tyson is also correct in that the longer "springs" go in the front.

This can get really confusing if your not super specific...

 

ah, i didnt catch that.

fine, i fixed it.


Modified by Tyson at 3:09 PM 11/2/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">slammed_93_hatch ment that the longer "sleeves" go in the rear.

Tyson is also correct in that the longer "springs" go in the front.

This can get really confusing if your not super specific...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol i was reading what tyson wrote and thinking "wtf"

 

ok, so the longer spring/smaller sleeve goes to the front, and the larger sleeve/smaller spring goes to the rear. thanks.

So I get a spring compressor and go at the stock ones right. Then put the parts I need back onto the new stuff.

I've lowered a G20 with tein's and kyb's but it seems the instructions were better for those.

No one knows of a write up for the civic?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">200f/180r


Modified by Tyson at 3:09 PM 11/2/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those are 330f/250r I believe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK k kay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those are 330f/250r I believe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, it says right on the spring, 200 and 180

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK k kay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Those are 330f/250r I believe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha.... yes, youre right in regards to spring rate. the 200/180 is related to spring length. 8"/7"

 

yep i agree with everyone with the instructions.

and for choosing this setup! i love it....

havent tried full stiff or at least (95% stiff, cuz of that whole adjuster getting stuck issue)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by banzai msg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I get a spring compressor and go at the stock ones right. Then put the parts I need back onto the new stuff.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, you will need a spring compressor to disassemble your old spring/shock units. Your going to be using the old upper mounts & bushings to complete your new setup. You will find that no spring compressor is required for reassembly, so you won't need to rent that tool for more than a day (incase you decide to take your time).

Good luck...

 

ok thanks guys.

So there are a lot of parts that come with the Koni's that I dont use correct? Like the supplied spring perch and ring for the spring seat right?

Doesnt the sleeve sit right on the knotch of the koni's?

and what are those white washers for?

 

The white washers snap onto the shock shaft between the bump stop & shock body. This piece helps protect the shock seals. If it wasn't their, the bump stop hits the body it would create suction directly on the seals, and blow them out...

You are correct about the sping perches. Your GC sleeves sit directly on the snap ring that is already in one of the grooves on the shock body. It is recomended that you move the snap ring to the lowest setting when using coilover sleeves. This will give you better clearance between the sleeve & spirng (the regular sleeves have been known to rub on eachother, but your smaller "baby tubes" won't do that anyways). To move the snap ring, just use a small flat head screwdriver to pry one end out of the groove. Then work your way around until the whole ring is out of the groove. Then gently slide the ring down to the lower goove until it snaps into place. Be sure to keep the ring from becoming distorted, otherwise it will become weak. And trust me, you don't want all the weight of your car sitting on a weak snap ring...

 

damn, all these terms are confusing me. So the white washer goes on top of the shock body? As in flush with the shock body right?

And is it necessary that I move the ring down to the lower groove? I dont want to bend or scrape it.

 

I understand not wanting to scrape the yellow paint with that snap ring, but that area will be completely covered by the GC sleeve even if it does get scrached. Besides, Koni's yellow paint is known for chipping easily (The GC sleeve will wear at the paint). After a couple seasons on your car, they definently won't look new. It's okay though since you cant see them once in place. Also, the lower snap-ring position will allow you more height adjustment range with your coil-overs (It isn't required though)...

Yes the white washer clips onto the shock shaft & just rests on top of the shock body. It will be able to freely move on the shaft once the whole thing is assembled, so don't worry if that is the case...

 

ok cool...im off to autozone to get some compressors

 

I've had a rough time renting spring compressors. The one I tired had claws that were too fat & they didn't fit between the coils on my CRX shocks. You may want to bring one of your old shock/spring assemblies with you to the parts store to try it on first.

Good luck man!!!

 

thanks! the compressors seem to be fine, but any ideas on how to remove the 14mm top bolt? Its freaking stuck pretty damn good. And I can't get much leverage from the allen wrench...

 

ttt gotta get this nut off

 

some sort of loosening spray I can put on it...its still on tight after 20 minutes of trying

 

pb blaster. pep boys and autozone now have it.

or use a impact gun.

 

I have no impact gun, I'll try pb blaster. Thanks

 

put the shock assembly back up into the fender well, and bolt it down with the two shock tower mounting nuts (you may have to remove the spring compressor for fitment). Now it cannot rotate when you use your rachet to lay down the torque. Once you've got the nut broken loose, you can remove the shock assembly from the fender & reinstall the spring compressor (if you had to remove it) to complete the disassembly...

 

wow, thats alot of work - mainly because I have omni power coilovers on my car right now. I have the stock shock/ suspension tech. springs in the closet, and I'm taking them apart in the house

Maybe I'll try this pb blaster, and if it doesnt work, next day off I'll throw um up in the fender