my car right now is at 350 hp with 249 tq. alex with neukin motor developments is finishing up my top mount and 4 inch dp. i also bought a tial 44 mm wg and 50 mm bov and a precision 750 ic. once i get the stuff on and tuned im thinking i will be making around 550 hp. my clutch right now is slipping on the track. i tried to do a burn out twice a few weeks at gainesville and the car would not grab at all. bov fluttered very strange and car just moved forward. so what clutch would be a good decision to handle up to areound 600-700 hp that can be driven on the street also. and is not to expensive. thanks for any help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redturbosi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car right now is at 350 hp with 249 tq. alex with neukin motor developments is finishing up my top mount and 4 inch dp. i also bought a tial 44 mm wg and 50 mm bov and a precision 750 ic. once i get the stuff on and tuned im thinking i will be making around 550 hp. my clutch right now is slipping on the track. i tried to do a burn out twice a few weeks at gainesville and the car would not grab at all. bov fluttered very strange and car just moved forward. so what clutch would be a good decision to handle up to areound 600-700 hp that can be driven on the street also. and is not to expensive. thanks for any help</TD></TR></TABLE>


...with out a dout u need a twin disk.
the exedy twin disk is a nice piece.not to harsh,and grabs nice.

 

competition clutch's twin disc is hella nice for the price.

 

RPS carbon carbon

Jason

 

im researching this exedy twin disc clutch kit and it seems like everywhere it is about 1300-1500. even on ebay. is there a cheaper place and how long would a clutch like this last. ill be going to the track about 1-2 times a month and i think i will only put down about 550-600 hp.

 

get a tilton twin disc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls1 FD3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">competition clutch's twin disc is hella nice for the price. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i am with this guy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quickwhips.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am with this guy </TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here

 

tilton

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redturbosi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im researching this exedy twin disc clutch kit and it seems like everywhere it is about 1300-1500. even on ebay. is there a cheaper place and how long would a clutch like this last. ill be going to the track about 1-2 times a month and i think i will only put down about 550-600 hp. </TD></TR></TABLE>

...if u buy a clutch setup, Flywheel,disk,pressure plate,etc. its gonna
run you anywhere from 600$ to 800$ depending on what products.
so your better off spending a little more and getting a twin disk, such as my fav. Tilton, or exedy, or O.S., or Competition which is gonna hold that kind of power and last a long time. So, save a little $, don't cheese out, and ull be a happy camper. (p.s.- the competition twin disk is nice for that price)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SFWD 1934 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">RPS carbon carbon</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

i love my exedy twin ands its pretty cheap to rebuild too

 

i called jotech motorsports today and they said act has a new clutch coming out in a few weeks that will hod 500 ib of of torque. anyone know about this. right now im making 350 hp and 250 tq so at 550 hp i doubt ill even be around 450. not being cheap but are these twin disc really what i need?

 

go twin or go home with a smoked clutch...

 

what did everyone use a few years ago when twin disk weren't in use? i mean, ppl used to hold the power all the time....now it seems if you have over 400whp you HAVE to HAVE a twin disk...i don't get it


btw, all the local ppl making 500whp + are still on singles... don't know exactly which ones, but i know none had a twin cept one friend

 

ACT Max Xtreme PP, and 4 puck disk....


twin disks are over rated.

 

twin disc is the way to go.


IF you can't afford a new one, I have a used OG giken that has about 400 miles on it

sorry to plug that guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redturbosi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car right now is at 350 hp with 249 tq. alex with neukin motor developments is finishing up my top mount and 4 inch dp. i also bought a tial 44 mm wg and 50 mm bov and a precision 750 ic. once i get the stuff on and tuned im thinking i will be making around 550 hp. my clutch right now is slipping on the track. i tried to do a burn out twice a few weeks at gainesville and the car would not grab at all. bov fluttered very strange and car just moved forward. so what clutch would be a good decision to handle up to areound 600-700 hp that can be driven on the street also. and is not to expensive. thanks for any help</TD></TR></TABLE>

We use just an ACT extreme pressure plate with 6 puck disk (solid hub).......and the end result....consistant 9-second passes....every time.....

All Squeeze Racing
First 9-second Honda from the Bay Area
LDL SPEED SHOP
9.76@146.6mph.......9.82@145mph.....

 

even seen them(asr) in action at boti.

 

The twin disc is worth its weight in gold. Aside from practically unlimited power handling capabilities, you can shift WAY faster than with any single style clutch setup. A decent clutch and lightened flywheel can cost $500-$900. Why not spend a little more and get the best. Its THE last clutch you will ever buy.

Unless you sell your car and need another.

 

but there's also the issues of setting the clutch up and fabbing a pedal stop that some ppl can't deal with.

and if you come to a point of needing new disk, you've got to pay for them AND the spacer, right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls1 FD3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go twin or go home with a smoked clutch... </TD></TR></TABLE>

im with this guy

if u buy that ACT, its gonna start slippin like the one u got now.

 

I spent about 1/2 hour talking to the ACT reps at Nopi World Finals about their clutches, here is what they told me:

The maxx extreme plate with a 6 puck or 4 puck will handle about 500 torque to the wheels, but you can not slip it, you must bang it. Slipping this clutch will cause it to heatup and let go by top of 3rd. They do not publicize this because of warranty claims and customers toasting their clutch and says you said it could take it. You know how big business works got to cover their butts!

Personally
I have the maxx plate with a 6 puck and have about 25,000 miles on it TONS of passes on both BFG 225's drags and 24.5" slicks holds fine for me. Oh yeah I make 521WHP and 413TQ trapping 124mph consistently.

But buy based on your driving habits is this your daily driver (like mine) or a drag car. My boss has a twin disc and does not like it on the street.

 

Clutch master twin disc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jpenman50 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Clutch master twin disc</TD></TR></TABLE>