Does My car need to run Warmer?
I am in need of help (I think). My car will not idle correct and I think it is because of how cool the motor runs. The temp gauge will never get above the 1/4 mark even in 100 + degree summer traffic. So my first thought is the thermostat any other guess’s or help before I try and make my car run warmer?
Who would of thought that a car could run too cool!
My set up is an:
OBD1 B16A
w/some bolt on parts
w/stock radiator and coolant hoses
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. S »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's most likely the thermostat, yes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
replace the thermostat and then let us know whats goin on
replace the thermostat and then let us know whats goin on
The stock temp gauge doesnt tell you anything about the actuall temp of your engine. I bought a autometer one and installed it, and I found that once the car warmed up to 150deg the stock gauge would move 1/4 of an inch and stay there even @ 215 degrees. Get an aftermarket gauge if you really think that your car isnt getting warm enough and then go from there. If there isnt any thermostat then that could be the reason why it wouldnt warm up....
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I bought the T-Stat today, I totaly forgot yesterday was Trick-Or-Treat day... When I got home today after buying the t-stat My motor felt very warm to the touch. How warm or hot under the hood is normal? I noticed that the warmer the car got (today) the better it idle'd.
I was also doing some searching around in the past topics and posts', i found a idle topic where some guy had simlar issues as me, some on sugessted a fuel injector going bad, not bad yet but going bad... This person also said to check the ohms of the injectors. . .
My injectors are 12.6 (for 3 of them and one at 13.0 Ohms (ODB1 injectors)
I have a older busted set of injectors and the ALL read 11.6 Ohms
Does any one know the disared ohms and what about radiant heat from under the hood after the car is off...
I was also doing some searching around in the past topics and posts', i found a idle topic where some guy had simlar issues as me, some on sugessted a fuel injector going bad, not bad yet but going bad... This person also said to check the ohms of the injectors. . .
My injectors are 12.6 (for 3 of them and one at 13.0 Ohms (ODB1 injectors)
I have a older busted set of injectors and the ALL read 11.6 Ohms
Does any one know the disared ohms and what about radiant heat from under the hood after the car is off...
Well I have a new T-Stat in it and it just idles low (almost to the point of a stall out). I am going to mess with the idle speed a little more, if that does not work I am going to try fuel pump ?
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Well, I got the car so it will idle with out any thing on like; lights, heater, radio... etc..
When I give the car a load (of current or power) the idle drops below 500RMP and the idles for dear life until I turn some thing off. So I am not thinking that it is the idle speed control motor. Any input would be nice since I dont have the money to just throw parts at it in hopes of fixing something.
I would also like to say thanks for all the help thus far it has been great and very well needed
When I give the car a load (of current or power) the idle drops below 500RMP and the idles for dear life until I turn some thing off. So I am not thinking that it is the idle speed control motor. Any input would be nice since I dont have the money to just throw parts at it in hopes of fixing something.
I would also like to say thanks for all the help thus far it has been great and very well needed
I stoped by good old CSK today and my Bat, Alt, and Starter are all ok! So now what? any ideas would be greatI turned the fuel psi up to 47psi from the 42 it has always been at and still no change. The waycky thing is when I take the fuel psi vacume line off the intake manifold the car will ilde high but just fine ? wacky if u ask me...
maybe your vacum lines got crossed, damn my b18 did the same thing and i can remember what it was, im wanting to say i had to clean my iacv, and that fixed it. does the idle still bounce sometimes?
The idle does bounce from time to time... from 1K RPM to 300RPM
How do I clean it out? Just some carb cleaner?
Then as for the vacume lines, any idea as to where I can get the data sheet that shows how they run?
I hate dumb little things like this, If I didn't rack up 70 + miles a day on the car I wouldn't care as much, not to mention in stop and go traffic this SUCKS!
How do I clean it out? Just some carb cleaner?
Then as for the vacume lines, any idea as to where I can get the data sheet that shows how they run?
I hate dumb little things like this, If I didn't rack up 70 + miles a day on the car I wouldn't care as much, not to mention in stop and go traffic this SUCKS!
dont know what to tell you about the vacum, look on here at other ppls swaps, i just figured mine out with the old trial/error method.
ya just un bolt it and spray the **** out of it with carb cleaner, in the holes that are on it. thats all i did and it fixed all my idle problems. dry it out the best you can (air hose if you have one) or just shake it out then let it sit for an hr or so.
ya just un bolt it and spray the **** out of it with carb cleaner, in the holes that are on it. thats all i did and it fixed all my idle problems. dry it out the best you can (air hose if you have one) or just shake it out then let it sit for an hr or so.
I tried the carb cleaner and it worked great for a day, a buddie of mine told me that I should try just a little (2 or 3 drops) of oil in each hole. I was told oil will work more like a lube and carb cleaner is more like a solvent.
So it looks like the idle speed motor is the issue, if the final clean and lube doesn't work I am going to have to buy a known good one. may just by new OEM from honda and not used. . . .
So it looks like the idle speed motor is the issue, if the final clean and lube doesn't work I am going to have to buy a known good one. may just by new OEM from honda and not used. . . .
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