B20 Crower 404s dyno
My mods
Block:
B18A resleeved to 84.5mm
Wiseco Pistons 11:1 compression
Eagle rods
ACL bearings
Head:
Stck B18B head with portmatched IM and TB
crower 404 cams
crower dual valve springs, retainers
supertech vlaves
MISC:
gsr oil pump
gsr water pump
AEM FPR
Walboro fuel pump
msd dig 6+
Uberdata tuned
RC 310s
100 shot DP NOS setup soon to be used as soon as I finish breakin it in
154.1 hp and 136.1 ft/lbs of torque. What ya guys think, i was hoping for a little bit higher and i thought my peak hp would have been closer to 7500 rather than 6200. Do u think i need some headwork or a better IM, or should i be happy with that rpm range. Dont know if i wanna go higher than that rpm with nitrous and spin a rod bearing, rather take it safe, let me know what ya guys think
Block:
B18A resleeved to 84.5mm
Wiseco Pistons 11:1 compression
Eagle rods
ACL bearings
Head:
Stck B18B head with portmatched IM and TB
crower 404 cams
crower dual valve springs, retainers
supertech vlaves
MISC:
gsr oil pump
gsr water pump
AEM FPR
Walboro fuel pump
msd dig 6+
Uberdata tuned
RC 310s
100 shot DP NOS setup soon to be used as soon as I finish breakin it in
154.1 hp and 136.1 ft/lbs of torque. What ya guys think, i was hoping for a little bit higher and i thought my peak hp would have been closer to 7500 rather than 6200. Do u think i need some headwork or a better IM, or should i be happy with that rpm range. Dont know if i wanna go higher than that rpm with nitrous and spin a rod bearing, rather take it safe, let me know what ya guys think
if you get a skunk2/blox type intake manifold it will bring your peak power higher up for sure.......
the LS head need some work also......you can make quite a bit more power if you have the head ported.
also make sure you have those cam dyno tuned with cam gears. the 404's right out of the box aren't to impressive until you change the cam timing around.
the LS head need some work also......you can make quite a bit more power if you have the head ported.
also make sure you have those cam dyno tuned with cam gears. the 404's right out of the box aren't to impressive until you change the cam timing around.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mobebk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as soon as I finish breakin it in</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you mean by breaking in your motor? Your post says Uberdata tuned. By that do you mean you "dyno tuned" it by using Uberdata set up? Or, did you just use uber data base maps.
A link i ran across on "how to break in a engine"
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397
according to this you shouldnt even be driving it until you tuned it.
What do you mean by breaking in your motor? Your post says Uberdata tuned. By that do you mean you "dyno tuned" it by using Uberdata set up? Or, did you just use uber data base maps.
A link i ran across on "how to break in a engine"
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397
according to this you shouldnt even be driving it until you tuned it.
I used an uber base map, I have a plxm300 and datalogged it through uber to get about 12.5 - 13 at WOT. I then took it to get dynoed on a dynapack and have my cams dialed in. They said that i got the most with +2 +2 on the cams. I think the head and IM are killin me too. I also have a 2 inch crush bent exhaust thats also killin me. I found a 2.5 in mandrel bent one that im pickin up this weekend and putin a obx twin loop muffler. I think im gonna pick up a bare ls head and have it ported and match it with a blox IM so Ill have almost no downtime when I install it. Who does good headwork for a decent price around here?
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Jun 22, 2006 09:44 AM




