( Paintscratch.com) Anyone ever use a spray can to paint their car?
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So I have a lil fade on my (NBP) black Integra and wanted paint it myself using a kit from http://www.paintscratch.com. Since I don't have access to an aircompressor or paint guns etc etc. I have to use the spray can method that will come with the kit.
With the proper prep will this come close to an OEM or professional auto body shop?
Has anyone on H-T every spray can paint their cars or use the kit from http://www.Paintscratch.com?
Post some pictures if you have any.
Thanks.
+TTFS
With the proper prep will this come close to an OEM or professional auto body shop?
Has anyone on H-T every spray can paint their cars or use the kit from http://www.Paintscratch.com?
Post some pictures if you have any.
Thanks.
+TTFS
If you're that broke just do a full prep job on your car by yourself and have macco spray it for like $300 and put it all back together yourself. It will look a lot better for an extra $200 or w/e it cost.
There's a guy in the EF-CRX forum that did this with flat olive green on the car. It actually came out really good. Looks like an old school WW2 paint job, but he did a full mask job, removed and masked the trim areas. Check it out: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1409969
I dont think it would come close to a O.E quality and definately not a professional body shop paint job. Just save a couple hundred more dollars and just take it to macco/earl schieb/sprayglo. Any of those would be better than gloss paint from a spray can.
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Well I decided to do this on my own as a learning experience. For those who would like to paint a portion, whole parts, or entire car here is a simple writeup.
Painting your car/parts with a spray can/aerosol can kit

1) Warm and dry conditions are ideal for spray painting, as aerosols don't always work best in the damp and colder temperatures hinder drying time. If it's not warm and dry outside, work in a well-ventilated garage. Wear overalls or old clothes - goggles and a mask will keep stray droplets of paint away from your eyes

2) To prepare for spraying, use aluminium oxide abrasive paper (graded at 80grit) and rub the surface to be painted down to bare metal. Apply a rust treatment product if required, following the manufacturer's instructions and allowing it to dry fully.

3) The area to be painted should now be clean and dry - any traces of dirt or wax can be removed using cellulose thinners. Mask off any areas not being painted using masking tape and paper (to avoid hard edges, increase the area to be painted by moving the masking tape back gradually as you apply each coat of paint).

4) Holding the spray can approximately 25cm away from the surface to be painted, apply a number of coats of primer at 15-minute intervals until the area is evenly covered. Go an inch over the original layer of paint to help it blend in (to create an even softer edge, peel the masking tape back from the surface slightly). When spraying, use a smooth movement from side to side. It is best to apply several light layers of paint, as applying too much paint in one go can create sags and runs.

5) Allow at least 24 hours for the primer to dry thoroughly, then rub down with 120grit wet and dry paper until smooth. Clean the area with warm, soapy water, rinse, then dry fully.

6) To start painting, shake the can vigorously for two minutes to ensure the paint is thoroughly mixed. Apply a number of coats at 15-minute intervals, shaking the can between each one.

7) If you're using a metallic colour, allow the paintwork 24 hours to dry then rub it down with 1200 grit wet and dry paper. It should lose its gloss appearance and take on a dull, matt finish. Clean with warm, soapy water, rinse and dry.

8) Now apply two coats of lacquer, separated by a gap of 15-minutes. Halfords are launching a new petrol-resistant lacquer for fuel tanks/motorbikes etc. If the finish looks patchy, apply another coat or wait until the surface is completely dry before rubbing it down and starting the lacquering process again.

9) Allow new paintwork at least two weeks to harden, then use a rubbing compound to blend it in with the old paintwork.
Painting your car/parts with a spray can/aerosol can kit

1) Warm and dry conditions are ideal for spray painting, as aerosols don't always work best in the damp and colder temperatures hinder drying time. If it's not warm and dry outside, work in a well-ventilated garage. Wear overalls or old clothes - goggles and a mask will keep stray droplets of paint away from your eyes

2) To prepare for spraying, use aluminium oxide abrasive paper (graded at 80grit) and rub the surface to be painted down to bare metal. Apply a rust treatment product if required, following the manufacturer's instructions and allowing it to dry fully.

3) The area to be painted should now be clean and dry - any traces of dirt or wax can be removed using cellulose thinners. Mask off any areas not being painted using masking tape and paper (to avoid hard edges, increase the area to be painted by moving the masking tape back gradually as you apply each coat of paint).

4) Holding the spray can approximately 25cm away from the surface to be painted, apply a number of coats of primer at 15-minute intervals until the area is evenly covered. Go an inch over the original layer of paint to help it blend in (to create an even softer edge, peel the masking tape back from the surface slightly). When spraying, use a smooth movement from side to side. It is best to apply several light layers of paint, as applying too much paint in one go can create sags and runs.

5) Allow at least 24 hours for the primer to dry thoroughly, then rub down with 120grit wet and dry paper until smooth. Clean the area with warm, soapy water, rinse, then dry fully.

6) To start painting, shake the can vigorously for two minutes to ensure the paint is thoroughly mixed. Apply a number of coats at 15-minute intervals, shaking the can between each one.

7) If you're using a metallic colour, allow the paintwork 24 hours to dry then rub it down with 1200 grit wet and dry paper. It should lose its gloss appearance and take on a dull, matt finish. Clean with warm, soapy water, rinse and dry.

8) Now apply two coats of lacquer, separated by a gap of 15-minutes. Halfords are launching a new petrol-resistant lacquer for fuel tanks/motorbikes etc. If the finish looks patchy, apply another coat or wait until the surface is completely dry before rubbing it down and starting the lacquering process again.

9) Allow new paintwork at least two weeks to harden, then use a rubbing compound to blend it in with the old paintwork.
damn i dind't see ur post till now.
But take my word, DON"T FUKING use the spary can at all !!
I thought i could do it and ****, but the ******* can is gay as hell ,
sometime it would clog up and **** even though I just replaced a new head.
Dood, i did that ****, and my paint is messed up, i regret it so much !
But take my word, DON"T FUKING use the spary can at all !!
I thought i could do it and ****, but the ******* can is gay as hell ,
sometime it would clog up and **** even though I just replaced a new head.
Dood, i did that ****, and my paint is messed up, i regret it so much !
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