I am doing a boosted D16Z6 with cryo treated everything/sleeved block, yada yada. The only problem I am having, I cannot find a Z6 crank anywhere. I was told on a local Import website, that the crank on all D16's are exactly the same. 1.6l cranks are the same. same journals, same bearings, same everything. from the a6, zc, (sohc and dohc), z6, y8, is the exact quote?

Whats the H-T answer?

 

Bump.

 

When I was looking for a crank to replace my d16a6 crank that had a chewed up bearing journal--I got alot of offers on all different d16 cranks. From the pics, they all looked exactly the same--although I have heard that the d16a6 had larger oil holes in the actual shaft. Just get the newest, best condition d16 crank you can find--that is what I would do.

 

I am gonna wait for a few more answers. Thanks though.

 

Anyone?

 

Honda lists both the Z6 and A6 cranks as having identical part numbers. Just size the bearings accordingly and it will work perfectly.

 

Aight. Gonna rock the Z6.

 

there is a very slight difference.. a6 crank is supposed to have better oil chambers, meaning bigger than any other d16 crank and if you get down to measuring the trueness of the crank which means how perfect the circle is formed inside the bearing the a6 is supposed to be the best..but z6 is very very close to this..and unless you get out a very very accurate micrometer there will not be any difference..

important note though this trueness is mostly found to be off in rod bearing part of cranks..this is why alot of y8 blocks spin rod bearings, few z6 blocks spin them and even fewer a6 blocks spin them..but supposedly from the factory the a6 cranks were balanced better than any other crank..

now this could all be bullshit but, i have never heard of an a6 block rebuilt correctly with honda bearings spinning a rod bearing. but i have heard of a few z6, and many many y8 blocks spinning their rod bearings..

probably main reason why i built my mini-me with a6 bottom end..

 

Nice. so the A6 is a better crank huh? I already got my Z6 crank coming brand new from Honda. Thanks for everyones help. I am sure this will help people doing mini-me swaps.

 

I am not saying what you said about the a6 cranks being "truer" isn't right, but where did you get this information? I somehow actually doubt its accuracy. I have always heard that a6 bottom ends were the "strongest"--but it is something that is very hard to quantify.

 

It almost seems odd how the newest of the motors (easiest to find w/low miles) is flagged as the worst, and the oldest (hardest to find, harder to get w/round bores) is flagged as the best. It also seems strange how cranks made 10 years later for a higher compression motor would have worse tolerances/quality control, even with the 10-15 years of wear on the a6 is factored in. There's also the fact that newer engines are being made with VERY tight tolerances due to better quality control, which would lead to higher chance of spun bearings if you plug the oil passages with sludge.

Maybe this is because most a6's ARE closer to spec due to the fact that their users have them worked on and brought back to spec? Or is it the fact that an apples-to-apples compairison results in a y8 & z6 motor with nearly the same power, with the a6 making a tad less (good head flow is no replacement for greater lift/longer duration)?

I'm gonna call BS on this hearsay, because it's just that. Nothing has been measured and recorded, with pictures cementing these claims. There's just as many people with problem-free miles on y8's as there are a6's. Actually, there's a lot more y8 successes - the number of 88-91 SI/EX motors produced is far less than just the y8 numbers alone, let alone the z6 numbers.


My advice: get whatever crank you can that doesn't show catastrophic damage, then have it micropolished by a reputable shop.

 

ExcessivePerformance: how much was a new crankshaft from honda? thanks.

 

I think ther are 2 different crank snout sizes. Easy fix though, just get the correct belt pulley for the crank, and correct dampner.

 

first id like to say im happy as hell i came across this thread as im building my z6 right now and was trying to find a better condition crank then the one the ******* who sold me the block gave me

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 19civiclx95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ExcessivePerformance: how much was a new crankshaft from honda? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
id like to know this too,
and if i just wanted to get my crank polished instead, how much am i looking at spending?

great thread,
great info

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchEh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
id like to know this too,
and if i just wanted to get my crank polished instead, how much am i looking at spending?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
pm sent too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchEh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id like to know this too,
and if i just wanted to get my crank polished instead, how much am i looking at spending? </TD></TR></TABLE>


For a crank, I'd only reuse it if the damage is 'skin-deep'. As long as it can be machined within spec, it doesn't pay to get a new unit. FYI I'm getting my y8 crank polished at the same place King Motorsports gets some work done at, they said roughly $40 for a polish job. I also work with a good friend of the owner, so they're chamfering the holes for no extra charge. They didn't tell me the average RA of their finishes, but expect most places to have ~8 or below; 10 RA is typically acceptable. Try to get a shop that has a dedicated machine for it.

 

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...SHAFT

scroll down to crankshaft...i dont know if this is OEM honda ....but its $750 for a new crank...better off buying a whole swap in good condition.

 

Im replacing the z6 in my civic and I got another z6 to put in it however the output shaft of the crank in the z6 I'm putting in is smaller in diameter the the one I took out Any one know why the output shaft would be smaller in diameter the the one I took out so am needing to find the right crank timing gear and it's proving difficult.