I finished my two wheel traction bar install last night. Tested the stregnth of the welds and all by jacking the front up and like I have read even with my 3 ton jack it is hard to jack up with the bars on due to moving the rotation point farther back (efective longer wheelbase)

But how high should I adjust the two wheels off the ground. I know it's ilegal to have them touching the ground at the starting line. They are not spring loaded, they are solid two wheel setup with cross bracing on the lower bars.

The top connects to the wheel section with a quick relelase pin and an adjustable screw in/out pin. I can go from on the ground to about 3+" off the ground.

I did have 300# rear springs in my GCs but now have 600# springs to help squat. Vehicle weighs about 3100 and is about 700+ crank HP (I have run 10.91 @ 142mph)

 

Adjust the wheels as close to the ground as possible on a level suface. If construction of the bar is very stiff you should see the rear wheels lift on lauch as the chassis arcs.

 

Start from a level surface, air the tires down to proper launch PSI, driver in the car, Adjust them so they are barely off the ground (will spin freely) Then check them at every track, since track surfaces tire PSI vary, adjust them accordingly Slap it on the A$$ and send it down the track

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by here2race-no.b.s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Slap it on the A$$ and send it down the track </TD></TR></TABLE>

dang - that is where i was going wrong - forgot to slap it in the A$$

 

I don't know man, looks like you've been slapping John in the *** lately with the times you guys have been running! lol

 

Here is the new setup

 

Not that it matters much now, but for future reference, they would have been alot stronger to bending from a side load if you would have just put one big X on the lower tubes. They should work fine though.

 

id advise, a set of the orange wheeelezz wheels... we had rubber wheels on ours, them bitches ripped apart after 7-8 pass's.... it seems like the rubber wheels get "cought up" on the track surface, so the hard plastic wheels would have alot less friction and wouldnt come apart after a few pass's.

 

I have GCs with non adjustable KYBs in the rear. They came with 300# springs and I swapped them for 600# to keep the back from squating. But now that I have the bars, should I change back to the 300#?

 

Yes, when running a rear traction bar you want to allow the car to sit on it and effectively extend the wheel base. You can go even lower to a 150lb spring. However, I highly doubt you will get more than 15 runs on the hard plastic wheels. Definitely need the orange wheeleze. They are expensive, but well worth the durability and long life.

 

what are the "hard plastic wheels"? looks like grocery cart wheels lol

and for god sakes.. clean up the garage.. that looks like a space heater right by a bunch of trash and paper (and c16)