Engine lights coming on???? HELP
I Have a 00 civic ex, with a obd1 lsVtec, and boomslang conversion harness, with VAFC plug and play. I put a paper clip in the jumper, and it showed code 23, I dont have any idea what that is. Do you guys maybe know.
Thanks in advance.
Curtis
Thanks in advance.
Curtis
Thanks again, now I am running a oo ex dizzy. Is that knock sensor in my dizzy, and could the fact I have it 180% out have anything to do with it, it runs ok. Just sputters from time to time. I will be puting together a si dizzy legs on with ex guts, would that work? I am so confused about all this, sorry if I dont make sense.
Curtis
Curtis
But my dizzy not spark on time or whatever. Could lead to why that light is goin off. So I need to get like a 99-00 si dizzy or put those guts on one of my obd1 dizzy's that way I dont have to cut up the wires?
Curtis
Thanks
Curtis
Thanks
if your knock sensor is installed and wired correctly, then advancing your timing though the dizzy can cause detonation and a cel. Go get a timing light and set your dizzy in the right place.
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OK, the leg thats suppose to be on top, we put it ther it will not crank, then we turned the leg pointing towards the front of the car, and it ran great. but there was no were to bolt it. I got my dizy turned and bolted down. And it runs but sputters, and it will not adjust there is no play were it is right now. So I am asking like, do I need to get that si obd1 dizzy and change the guts out, will that work?
Curtis
Thanks
Curtis
Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your knock sensor is installed and wired correctly, then advancing your timing though the dizzy can cause detonation and a cel. Go get a timing light and set your dizzy in the right place.</TD></TR></TABLE>
unless you drilled/tappedm out a hole where the knock sensor would be on a b18c1, c5, or b16a block, then he will not be able to run a knock sensor, as the b18b obd1 block doesn't have a knock sensor. Which is why he would be getting this code.
unless you drilled/tappedm out a hole where the knock sensor would be on a b18c1, c5, or b16a block, then he will not be able to run a knock sensor, as the b18b obd1 block doesn't have a knock sensor. Which is why he would be getting this code.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
unless you drilled/tappedm out a hole where the knock sensor would be on a b18c1, c5, or b16a block, then he will not be able to run a knock sensor, as the b18b obd1 block doesn't have a knock sensor. Which is why he would be getting this code. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, i'm not that familiar with the b18b block, good catch. To the OP, you need to run an ecu that does not look for the knock sensor (chipped p28 would work nicely).
unless you drilled/tappedm out a hole where the knock sensor would be on a b18c1, c5, or b16a block, then he will not be able to run a knock sensor, as the b18b obd1 block doesn't have a knock sensor. Which is why he would be getting this code. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, i'm not that familiar with the b18b block, good catch. To the OP, you need to run an ecu that does not look for the knock sensor (chipped p28 would work nicely).
Okay so before I just ran a straight LS motor with the ls ecu, no codes, ran great with that dizzy. Then put a sir2 head on, with a p30 ecu, so being I have no knock sensor pluged in to the b18b block. When I start driving down the street it goes on and I did not know why. So really its nothing to worry bout? it wil just go off until I get it chiped not to read it.
Now the other problem is my idle and that sputter, I defenetly have to get a si dizzy correct, because the ex does not have no play in it, to adjust.
Curtis
Now the other problem is my idle and that sputter, I defenetly have to get a si dizzy correct, because the ex does not have no play in it, to adjust.
Curtis
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
(chipped p28 would work nicely).</TD></TR></TABLE>
This will defintily get rid of your code 23.
(chipped p28 would work nicely).</TD></TR></TABLE>
This will defintily get rid of your code 23.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grnb18civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now the other problem is my idle and that sputter, I defenetly have to get a si dizzy correct, because the ex does not have no play in it, to adjust.
Curtis</TD></TR></TABLE>
you would be suprised what not having a knock sensor can do to your motor's performance. Right now your ecu is retarding your ignition timing due to the absence of a knock sensor. I would fix that before I try to diagnose the dizzy.
Curtis</TD></TR></TABLE>
you would be suprised what not having a knock sensor can do to your motor's performance. Right now your ecu is retarding your ignition timing due to the absence of a knock sensor. I would fix that before I try to diagnose the dizzy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you would be suprised what not having a knock sensor can do to your motor's performance. Right now your ecu is retarding your ignition timing due to the absence of a knock sensor. I would fix that before I try to diagnose the dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And yes your performance and how your engine runs will be affected by this code as your ecu will automatically retard your timing. I run an p30 and when i got that code last year, my engine did not run right and gas mileage sucked.
But on the other hand the knock sensor can only detect detonation up to about 4.5K (which is proably around the rpm range you cel comes on after engine at operating temp.). Then after that rpm the actually engine noise is hard for the ecu to differenite between detonation and regular engine noise at high rpms, so the ecu does not look at that sensor above ~4.5k.
So you can still run at high rpms but your performance will suffer.
you would be suprised what not having a knock sensor can do to your motor's performance. Right now your ecu is retarding your ignition timing due to the absence of a knock sensor. I would fix that before I try to diagnose the dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And yes your performance and how your engine runs will be affected by this code as your ecu will automatically retard your timing. I run an p30 and when i got that code last year, my engine did not run right and gas mileage sucked.
But on the other hand the knock sensor can only detect detonation up to about 4.5K (which is proably around the rpm range you cel comes on after engine at operating temp.). Then after that rpm the actually engine noise is hard for the ecu to differenite between detonation and regular engine noise at high rpms, so the ecu does not look at that sensor above ~4.5k.
So you can still run at high rpms but your performance will suffer.
So I need to find a chipped p28 from a freind try that and see if it runs smooth, cause right now, it does suck on gas, and is slower than my ls. And does that ecu have to be chipped?
Curtis
Curtis
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grnb18civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I need to find a chipped p28 from a freind try that and see if it runs smooth, cause right now, it does suck on gas, and is slower than my ls. And does that ecu have to be chipped?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, gotta chip it. an obd1 p28 was designed to run a d16z6. there are too many differences between your LS-V and a single cam for the fuel and ignition maps to work properly. you can either buy a p28 and send it off to get chipped for your motor, or buy a chipped p28, and find someone on H-T who can burn you a new chip to put in it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, gotta chip it. an obd1 p28 was designed to run a d16z6. there are too many differences between your LS-V and a single cam for the fuel and ignition maps to work properly. you can either buy a p28 and send it off to get chipped for your motor, or buy a chipped p28, and find someone on H-T who can burn you a new chip to put in it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grnb18civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I bought a p30 for 100 bucks, do you think i can trade for a chipped p28 some how?
Curtis</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe. i bought my p28 (also chipped) for $100. You just need to find someone with a p28 who needs a p30.
Curtis</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe. i bought my p28 (also chipped) for $100. You just need to find someone with a p28 who needs a p30.
damn that is a great price on a P30 as the usdm p30 is kinda rare. But i am sure somebody will be looking to trade that has a stock p28 looking for a b-series ecu (p30 also has aggressive fuel maps). Get a stock p28 and have it chipped, so you don't have to worry about a bad chipping job on a preivously chipped ecu. Just my .02 cents.
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gtowni3
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Sep 10, 2004 11:39 AM



