I finally got a chance to dyno my car today....the 1st pull was a whooping 141.5 hp and 116.6 ft/lb. Then the air/fuel chart read that I was running too rich so we checked the pressure coming from the regulator and it was at 66 psi!!!! So we adjusted it down to 50 psi and made another run and then I pulled 177.6 hp and 145 ft/lb. The was done on a dynapack dyno. My mods include fully built skunk 2 head with stage 1 cams and cam gears. Type s pistons, rods, rings. Port and polioshed head and manifold. Port and polished throttle body and bored out to 65mm. Aem fpr, fuel filter, fuel rail, cold air intake, pullies. Hondata intake manifold gasket, apexi vfac 2. Msd 6al with blaster coil. I know I need to tuning my setup bad....I still haven't set the cam gears and I know I need to chip the ecu to rev higher. Also my msd 6al has the 7000 rpm pill in it so i can't rev past that. I've spent almost 10 grand on all the performance stuff..so i'm hoping that I will end up with some nice #'s in the end.... oh i own a 5th gen lude for those of you who don't know

 

shitty... tune that ****

 

You shouldn't need to rev any higher with only the skunk2 stageI cams. They usually make their power through the stock power band - maybe before 8,000. If you're using the ecu for you car, all you need is to get the 8k pill for the msd box. And that should be sufficient enough. Get a good tune, and you'll be amazed.

 

What is your exhaust setup? Where did you dyno at? Who is going to tune your car? are you on a stock ecu?

you shouldnt be too sad, you're car isnt complete yet

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigz187 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I finally got a chance to dyno my car today....the 1st pull was a whooping 141.5 hp and 116.6 ft/lb. Then the air/fuel chart read that I was running too rich so we checked the pressure coming from the regulator and it was at 66 psi!!!! So we adjusted it down to 50 psi and made another run and then I pulled 177.6 hp and 145 ft/lb. The was done on a dynapack dyno. My mods include fully built skunk 2 head with stage 1 cams and cam gears. Type s pistons, rods, rings. Port and polioshed head and manifold. Port and polished throttle body and bored out to 65mm. Aem fpr, fuel filter, fuel rail, cold air intake, pullies. Hondata intake manifold gasket, apexi vfac 2. Msd 6al with blaster coil. I know I need to tuning my setup bad....I still haven't set the cam gears and I know I need to chip the ecu to rev higher. Also my msd 6al has the 7000 rpm pill in it so i can't rev past that. I've spent almost 10 grand on all the performance stuff..so i'm hoping that I will end up with some nice #'s in the end.... oh i own a 5th gen lude for those of you who don't know</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have some good mods, but, you need to tune that shyt. VAFC is not what you should be using with your setup.

 

i'm running 2 1/2 cat back exhaust with a test pipe... I think i really screwed up with I took the butterflies out of my manifold when I port and polished it. I have a virgin p72 (yea I know it usless b/c I removed the butterflies) but I either going to run the hondata s300 or neptune what do u guys think??

 

Just curious, why didn't you go with a Skunk2 or Euro R intake manifold with a Type R TB or Skunk2 TB?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigz187 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I have a virgin p72 </TD></TR></TABLE>

I found your problem. and do you have any sort of tune on the vafc. and hows the air fuel ratio on the dyno? picture of graph?

I dont know I honestly think you whould break 200 but I could be wrong.

 

yea, let me scan the graph and i'll post it...the reason I didn't go with the euro R or skunk 2 manifold is b/c lack of funds....and I sent my throttle body off to http://www.maxbore.com and he only charged $100 but that ****** also broke my tps sensor whenever he shipped it back to me...but thats a whole other story... I wish i could fine the euro R manfi. but from what I heard the skunk 2 mani. can suck my left nut ( no ofense to anyone who is running that manifold )

 

damn scanner is messing up

 

I may have missed something, but are you still running the stock header? If so, there is a huge bottle neck right there. And like everyone else said, tuning.

 

lol man i swear bigz187 - that is the funniest ******* avatar i've ever seen.

 

lol thanks...no I'm running DC crap cerm. header...I'm will either upgrade to mugen or rmf later..... I can't figure out how to post my dyno chart

 

Well i'd say your header is definately holding you back. Do you have a site to host your picture? If all else fails email it to me and i'll put it up.

 

I, too, think you need a good tune on a better device such as Hondata. Adjusting the fuel pressure was a good start. And, yes, I agree that a better header from a company such as RMF or SMSP ( both able to be located here on hondatech.com ) would give major improvements.

But your numbers are entirely too low for the setup that you have. Jotech Motorsports/Kenny Tran Racing here in Texas was able to get 192 wheel horsepower out of an H22A1 with only a DC Sports header, A'PEXi N1 catback exhaust, RC Engineering fuel injectors, and Hondata S200. The camshafts and intake manifold were stock, as well as the throttle body. If they can get this off of this setup, then you should certainly be able to break 200 with your setup ( assuming your compression is good ).

 

^^whatever dyno you were on reads wayyy high

to the poster: i put down 183/140 on a dynapack, so we can compare results....

you spent your money in the wrong spots:
my setup:
js intake replica - $50
rmf header - $840
catback exhaust - $400
hondata s200/p72 - $500
tuning at rlz - $150

just short of 2k and it made more power....its all about efficiency dude, upgrade the right stuff with the right parts....dont just buy a bunch of stuff....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^whatever dyno you were on reads wayyy high

to the poster: i put down 183/140 on a dynapack, so we can compare results....

you spent your money in the wrong spots:
my setup:
js intake replica - $50
rmf header - $840
catback exhaust - $400
hondata s200/p72 - $500
tuning at rlz - $150


just short of 2k and it made more power....its all about efficiency dude, upgrade the right stuff with the right parts....dont just buy a bunch of stuff....</TD></TR></TABLE>

It wasn't on my car... it was on a customer's car that they were showing me dyno charts of. And I'm sure that the dyno does not read high... it is the exact same dyno used to tune Kenny Tran's Quaker State drag Civic.

 

the fact that a fast drag civic is dynoed there doesnt mean that it doesnt read high....192whp from a **** *** header and bigger injectors, something is up....