need help quickly. ordered motor from PasswordJDM, won't turn over at all
FYI, this is cross-posted in the All-Motor forum.
like the topic states, i have the motor taken apart down to the shortblock. the cylinder walls have a little surface rust, although i've already cleaned the walls and pistons very well. i maxed out my breaker bar's torque reading at 150ft*lbs and kept going a little and the crankshaft still wouldn't turn. smells like trouble to me. i WD-40'd the cylinders, but still no go.
BTW, anybody want to give me a good method for installing ARP head studs? i think i have it right, but i want to make sure as i've never used ARP bolts before.
like the topic states, i have the motor taken apart down to the shortblock. the cylinder walls have a little surface rust, although i've already cleaned the walls and pistons very well. i maxed out my breaker bar's torque reading at 150ft*lbs and kept going a little and the crankshaft still wouldn't turn. smells like trouble to me. i WD-40'd the cylinders, but still no go.
BTW, anybody want to give me a good method for installing ARP head studs? i think i have it right, but i want to make sure as i've never used ARP bolts before.
are you turning the motor the correct way? make sure nothing is in the flywheel as far as the arp studs i just used there lube on the bottom parts of the studs and used an allen wrench to tighten them into the block i just tightened them hand tight as not to strip anything hope this help -tim
it doesn't really matter which way the motor is turned. it can turn either way. and to boot, this is now just a shortblock, so i'm trying to turn it clockwise with the bolt because counterclockwise will loosen the bolt. i've got marvel mystery oil sitting on the pistons hoping it will clear things up. i think the rings may be a little rusted to the cylinder walls.
wow.......if the engine is that badly seized i would send it back or have them pay for the machine shop to re-build it........even if you do manage to free it up what are the chances its not gonna burn oil from the scoring of the walls once the rings scrape up the rust......
I know when I first was building my motor--I put the crank in, and torqued down the mains--this is without any pistons in--it took about 50 ft/lbs to get it turning!! Way too much--so I had the crank polished and the block align bored to come up with about 0.0020" on all the mains--crank turned over about 0 ft/lbs after that, and with pistons in (but no head) not more than 7-10 ft/lbs. There is CLEARLY something wrong with that motor, I bet the pistons are seized in the bores--doesn't seem worth it for something you paid a bunch for. I would send it back asap.
thanks guys. this is why i love honda-tech. i've had marvel mystery oil sitting in there for a day and a half and i'm willing to give it a try in a couple days but i tried it after about 36 hours having that stuff in there and no go. the motor in the car now probably takes 50+ft*lbs to turn and it's perfectly fine, but that's with cams and such. i'll call password and ask them what they want to do to rectify this issue. thanks again everyone!
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okay, so here's the scoop. they want pictures of the problems (rust), and if the oil doesn't make it turn over okay they will replace the shortblock for me. they didn't mention me having to eat the shipping costs so i'm happy with their service so far, except that it's been 2 weeks since i ordered and i'm now actually even farther away from receiving said product than the day i ordered it b/c it will have to be shipped back and another shipped out. but at least i'm not totally screwed. that's pretty comforting, supposing they pay the shipping costs.
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95lstegman
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