Welding Header to Cat
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From: Yeah IM from Jersey, big wup, wanna fight about, it, USA
The "cat"(its basically a test pipe) i got for my car doesnt meet up correctly to the header I have. So basically I have to weld the cat and header together. Are there any disadvantages to doing this? Will the weld have a tendacy to break with vibrations or movement from the engine. Please help cause I have to make a decision today. Thanks.
If you can weld on some flanges. This will make it easier in the future. If you decide to weld your test pipe to the header, do it correct. You won't have any problems with the welds cracking unless you hit the header head-on against a huge rock or pot hole.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupersonicBlueGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are there any disadvantages to doing this? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupersonicBlueGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will the weld have a tendacy to break with vibrations or movement from the engine</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes. You'd be better off purchasing the correct flanges and installing them so that you can retain the flexible joint.
Yes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupersonicBlueGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will the weld have a tendacy to break with vibrations or movement from the engine</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes. You'd be better off purchasing the correct flanges and installing them so that you can retain the flexible joint.
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From: Yeah IM from Jersey, big wup, wanna fight about, it, USA
its a 2.5" header to a 2.5" "cat" to a 2.5" exhaust. The "cat' was supposedly fit a 2.5" header but it doesnt, the flange on the header is 5 1/4" and the flange on the cat is 3.5". So I was thinkin if he welded the two pieces toether and for added strength welded 2 or so metal strips connectin the header and cat.
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From: Yeah IM from Jersey, big wup, wanna fight about, it, USA
so is that a good idea?
Also I was thinking he could drill 2 new holes in the header flange and bolt it up that way. Any input is needed
Also I was thinking he could drill 2 new holes in the header flange and bolt it up that way. Any input is needed
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Well, connecting the header to the cat, there are springs that absorb vibration, so aside from having that, what happens if you want to change the header?
I would not advise this.
I would not advise this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupersonicBlueGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a 2.5" header to a 2.5" "cat" to a 2.5" exhaust. The "cat' was supposedly fit a 2.5" header but it doesnt, the flange on the header is 5 1/4" and the flange on the cat is 3.5". So I was thinkin if he welded the two pieces toether and for added strength welded 2 or so metal strips connectin the header and cat. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No, like Padawan said, you need to allow the connection between the header and cat to flex a little bit. As mentioned, flex pipe or the use of spring bolts will achieve the amount of flex you need. I would take your cat that came with the wrong measurements to a muffler shop and have him cut off the old flange and weld on a new flange that would bolt up to your header with the OEM spring bolts.
No, like Padawan said, you need to allow the connection between the header and cat to flex a little bit. As mentioned, flex pipe or the use of spring bolts will achieve the amount of flex you need. I would take your cat that came with the wrong measurements to a muffler shop and have him cut off the old flange and weld on a new flange that would bolt up to your header with the OEM spring bolts.
I ruined a brand new Carsound cat because the shop just welded it to the header flange, and the lack of flex caused the brick to dislodge in the cat. You have to have some sort of flex joint, whether it be flanges and spring bolts or a flex pipe.
Maybe it you had solid prothane engine mounts that kept the engine rigid there would be no need for the flex joint, but that is just speculation.
Maybe it you had solid prothane engine mounts that kept the engine rigid there would be no need for the flex joint, but that is just speculation.
You will probably have to take it to a small-time shop, or get a friend with a welder to do it, cause if you take it to a place like Midas, or Meineke, they won't touch the car. I had the same problem about a year ago, and I took it to Meineke, the mechanic gave me a 20 minute speech on how it is a federal offense to use a test pipe, and he said that he wouldn't touch it, because the car isn't street legal anymore because of the test pipe. He was a real dick head about it, and extremely rude to me. He told me that he shouldn't even let me drive my car away from the shop. So I asked him how much it would cost, to get a street-legal hi-flo cat, and him to put it on, and he quoted me like $500. So I gave him a polite "expletive OFF" then left. My friend and I ghetto-rigged a piece of pipe, and made that **** work. But now that piece we made broke (no flex). So now I am ordering an all-new name brand header-back exhaust.
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From: Yeah IM from Jersey, big wup, wanna fight about, it, USA
thanks for the advice. I get the car back today and I think the best thing I can do as of right now is to drill 2 holes through the existing header flange since its the bigger one and hopefully it will bolt up to the cat. Ill let you guys know how it goes.
If you want all different flanges, gaskets, test pipes, high flows, and flexpipes. go to http://www.kteller.com I do belive we have someone on here who is a dealer?
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