b18a swap won't start
Car - 90 civic si, Motor - 92 B18a, Boomslang obd0 to obd1 harness, Distributor obd1 (new from Kragen), ECU 92 pr4 obd1, obd1 injectors with resistor box deleted.
Here's what i've already have troubleshooted
1.All wires pin to pin from distributor, injectors to ecu have been checked for continuity
2.injector resistance is 12.4 ohms with 12v at injectors plugs.
3. Thermostat ground is clean and reground with 8 guage wire from thermostat to chasis.
4. Car starts with Starter fluid.
5. NO CEL codes
6. Main relay is good (new)
7.Feul pump is working. Getting feul to fuel rail and back into feul tank.
8. we got spark and timing is good.
9. all fuses have been check with a DMM. It's good.
10. I already tried 3 known working ECU's. still wont start.
Here's the symptoms
1.Injectors will not fire to allow feul into cylinder. I use a NOID light tester and there is no signal to injectors from ECU. It's suppose to flash but there is nothing.
Is there something I am missing? I ran through the Helms troubleshooting checklist from 93 integra 3 times and everything check out per Helms manual. PLease HELP.
Here's what i've already have troubleshooted
1.All wires pin to pin from distributor, injectors to ecu have been checked for continuity
2.injector resistance is 12.4 ohms with 12v at injectors plugs.
3. Thermostat ground is clean and reground with 8 guage wire from thermostat to chasis.
4. Car starts with Starter fluid.
5. NO CEL codes
6. Main relay is good (new)
7.Feul pump is working. Getting feul to fuel rail and back into feul tank.
8. we got spark and timing is good.
9. all fuses have been check with a DMM. It's good.
10. I already tried 3 known working ECU's. still wont start.
Here's the symptoms
1.Injectors will not fire to allow feul into cylinder. I use a NOID light tester and there is no signal to injectors from ECU. It's suppose to flash but there is nothing.
Is there something I am missing? I ran through the Helms troubleshooting checklist from 93 integra 3 times and everything check out per Helms manual. PLease HELP.
could the injectors be fried? or is the wiring right? (when the resistor box was deleted... proper connection made?) do you have other injectors you can try?
yeah proper connection is made when the resistor box is deleted. I pin out all connections all the way to ecu. The thing is I am not getting a ECU signal to the injectors when I used the NOID tester. I double check all my connections with the 90 si service manual and 92 teg service manual. I even tried 3 known working ECU. I don't think the injectors are fried because resistance shows its good. Could it be a bad ground somewhere?
Hmmmm.. when u turn Switch Can you hear injectors spraying?
I did same swap Into my 89 Dx. It would turn over but would not fire later to find out that it was the ground to the ecu. Took me a month to find that ground..... I was so pissed so check all grounds
I did same swap Into my 89 Dx. It would turn over but would not fire later to find out that it was the ground to the ecu. Took me a month to find that ground..... I was so pissed so check all grounds
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is there continuity from each injector to the ecu ? r you sure you got 1-4 in the right spot respective to the ecu. 1 at A1, 2 at A3, 3 at A5, and 4 at A7
i got the same problem but i can start mine if i put gas in the intake manifold other than that it wont start on its own. i also put that injector test to it and same problem.
i was looking at your grounding of the thermostat, did you jsut do this or did you have a running motor before with that ground ? because doesnt the ground from the ecu come to that point and with the ground not being there, wouldnt it cause the ecu not to ground causing the injectors not to ground and then causing the injectors not to fire ?
Thanks for replying everyone. I deleted the resistor box by using a OBD1 plugs and made sure when its plug up continuity is good. All the injectors have the proper color coded wire and i pin each wire the ecu per Helm manual. So it's good there. As for the thermostat ground, it was already nice and tight but someone suggested that I "T" that same ground to the chassis. I ohm it out and it's good.
Once again, the car starts with starter fluid so timing/spark is good. When I used the NOID tester to check for injector signal coming from the ecu, there is no signal. The thing is the car started before when i was eliminating codes....14,15,16, 4. I first eliminated code 14,15,16 all once due to loose connections. When I tried to eliminate code 4 "crank angle sensor", The car would not start after I found out what was wrong. It was a loose pin "large white wire from dizzy" to connection at fuse box under the hood.
Once again, the car starts with starter fluid so timing/spark is good. When I used the NOID tester to check for injector signal coming from the ecu, there is no signal. The thing is the car started before when i was eliminating codes....14,15,16, 4. I first eliminated code 14,15,16 all once due to loose connections. When I tried to eliminate code 4 "crank angle sensor", The car would not start after I found out what was wrong. It was a loose pin "large white wire from dizzy" to connection at fuse box under the hood.
Update.....Finally got the car started. It was the obd0-obd1 conversion harness. Bought another one from Rywire and the damn thing started right up. On the road again....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by camboMONK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Update.....Finally got the car started. It was the obd0-obd1 conversion harness. Bought another one from Rywire and the damn thing started right up. On the road again....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good to hear.
Good to hear.
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