swapping upper control arms for better launches
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tommyten »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">swapping upper control arms for which other ones?</TD></TR></TABLE>re read the original post<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">didn't i read on here somewhere you could swap the L+R upper control arms to aid in better 60 foot times? </TD></TR></TABLE>all you're doing, is taking the left control arm, and switching it with the right one and vice versa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg crunkmonster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are the left and right control arms on 92-95 civics different? unidirectional?</TD></TR></TABLE>
they are differnet, but the mounting points are the same!
they are differnet, but the mounting points are the same!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokey2.0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can do it, it's an old road racing trick. it's meant, to add positive caster to the front suspension!</TD></TR></TABLE>
upper control arm pro
upper control arm pro
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmotorhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would like to know more as well</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahaha, I did this on my own car. 1.70 60' on 25x8.7x13 with very little suspension work.
All I have done: skunk2 drag launch kit. Autozone shocks. GSR tranny with quaife.
After swapping UCAs, I went and got an alignment. 1/8" toe in total, 0.5* positive camber and 5* positive caster. I just got the ride height right to get the camber right and I was able to get all those alignment settings just how I want them without traction bars or any direct form of adjustable camber/caster.
Damnit I really wanted a 1.69' though
All I have done: skunk2 drag launch kit. Autozone shocks. GSR tranny with quaife.
After swapping UCAs, I went and got an alignment. 1/8" toe in total, 0.5* positive camber and 5* positive caster. I just got the ride height right to get the camber right and I was able to get all those alignment settings just how I want them without traction bars or any direct form of adjustable camber/caster.
Damnit I really wanted a 1.69' though
I'm right...here is some info about the effects of caster
THE EFFECTS OF CASTER
Caster is the angle to which the steering pivot axis is tilted forward or rearward from vertical, as viewed from the side. If the pivot axis is tilted backward (that is, the top pivot is positioned farther rearward than the bottom pivot), then the caster is positive; if it's tilted forward, then the caster is negative.
Positive caster tends to straighten the wheel when the vehicle is traveling forward, and thus is used to enhance straight-line stability. The mechanism that causes this tendency is clearly illustrated by the castering front wheels of a shopping cart (above). The steering axis of a shopping cart wheel is set forward of where the wheel contacts the ground. As the cart is pushed forward, the steering axis pulls the wheel along, and since the wheel drags along the ground, it falls directly in line behind the steering axis. The force that causes the wheel to follow the steering axis is proportional to the distance between the steering axis and the wheel-to-ground contact patch-the greater the distance, the greater the force. This distance is referred to as "trail."
Most cars are not particularly sensitive to caster settings. Nevertheless, it is important to ensure that the caster is the same on both sides of the car to avoid the tendency to pull to one side. While greater caster angles serve to improve straight-line stability, they also cause an increase in steering effort. Three to five degrees of positive caster is the typical range of settings, with lower angles being used on heavier vehicles to keep the steering effort reasonable
THE EFFECTS OF CASTER
Caster is the angle to which the steering pivot axis is tilted forward or rearward from vertical, as viewed from the side. If the pivot axis is tilted backward (that is, the top pivot is positioned farther rearward than the bottom pivot), then the caster is positive; if it's tilted forward, then the caster is negative.
Positive caster tends to straighten the wheel when the vehicle is traveling forward, and thus is used to enhance straight-line stability. The mechanism that causes this tendency is clearly illustrated by the castering front wheels of a shopping cart (above). The steering axis of a shopping cart wheel is set forward of where the wheel contacts the ground. As the cart is pushed forward, the steering axis pulls the wheel along, and since the wheel drags along the ground, it falls directly in line behind the steering axis. The force that causes the wheel to follow the steering axis is proportional to the distance between the steering axis and the wheel-to-ground contact patch-the greater the distance, the greater the force. This distance is referred to as "trail."
Most cars are not particularly sensitive to caster settings. Nevertheless, it is important to ensure that the caster is the same on both sides of the car to avoid the tendency to pull to one side. While greater caster angles serve to improve straight-line stability, they also cause an increase in steering effort. Three to five degrees of positive caster is the typical range of settings, with lower angles being used on heavier vehicles to keep the steering effort reasonable
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markwitdada9
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
7
Jan 31, 2006 05:15 PM



thanks....

