I'm on my 3rd motor now on my crx. I've decided to build an LSVTEC this time. I've got everything for it. Here's the list of stuff i had to pick up and it's price:

91 Integra LS B18a block-$100
00 B16a2 head w/ B16a2 Intake Manifold/Throttle body-$400 + trade used safc
ITR/GSR water pump-$42.18
ITR/GSR Timing belt-$22.90
P72 (96+ teg) Oil pump-$85
D16y8 knock sensor-Free
ARP GSR headstuds-$115
ARP LS Rod bolts-$52
Integra LS headgasket-$30
OBD0 PR3 Skunk2 chipped B16 ecu-$50 + work
Full-Race.com vtec conversion kit-$92
ITR knock off 4-1 header w/ 2.5 inch collector-$93 (ebay is great)

Total: $1082.08 + used safc + work


The setup will be:
00 B16a2 head/Intake/TB/Cams
91 B18a1 block
ARP head studs
ARP rod bolts
B16 SiR Y1 tranny w/ LSD-already had from last motor
Exedy stg. 2 clutch/PP-already had from last motor
AEM adj. cam gears-already had from last motor
B&M FPR+Gauge-already had from last motor
4-1 header w/ 2.5 inch collector
2.5 inch catco cat-already had from last motor
2.5 inch mandrel bent piping/muffler-already had from last motor
injen short ram/cold air-already had from last motor

I'm running the stock LS pistons. Compression will be around 9.6:1. I'm hoping for 13.9-14.2 1/4. Think that it's achievable with this setup? (don't forget i have the GSR cams and Y1 LSD tranny!) I'm hoping for 160 WHP and at least 125 ft/lbs of TQ.

I've got a set of 3 B16 PR3 pistons...lol...so I'm missing one, but i'll throw those in with a different block. I'm going to build another block on the side this winter w/ PR3 pistons, LS rods, hastings rings, oem bearings, and ARP rod bolts.

So far i have:
cleaned the block/head stud holes, pistons, cylinders, and drained motor
cleaned out oil pan and installed new oil pan gasket
painted the block aluminum silver (i don't want to hear it)
installed GSR water pump, P72 oil pump and GSR belt
put on alternator + belt
installed lower timing cover and crank pulley

I installed the ARP's until they bottomed out, then i spun them back a full turn so they were still loose/hand tight, as per ARP's instructions.
I drilled the upper alternator bracket bolt out using a 27/64th's drill bit. You're supposed to use a 10.9mm drill bit. But, i cross referenced it and the 27/64 is the closest. Actually, it's just a tad smaller so it works out perfect.
I have to go buy a 12x1.25 tap and a 1/8 NPT tap soon. Everywhere i went, they were out of the two. Damn.

Still need to do:
modify ls headgasket dowel holes to 14mm.
tap block for knock sensor and install it.
Assemble the head to the block.

I will have pics available soon. The motor is on the engine stand right now.

PICS:









Modified by bambam at 11:16 PM 10/24/2005


Modified by bambam at 4:32 PM 11/3/2005

 

why is the y1 tranny bad?

 

i didn't say the Y1 tranny is bad. It has the closest gearing out of any Bseries tranny. it just has a low final. It's my favorite. .

 

bump for the pics.

 

i have that trans and at 11o mph ur at 7000 rpm i like it cuz it gets there quick

 

nah, about 130 for me. hittin the limiter in 5th

 

I thought that the block looked kinda strange. on the project so far, why did you go with the GSR APR headstuds, and is there any modifacation needed to get them to work properly?

 

went with the GSR studs because those are the ones u need for LSVTEC or CRVTEC. They screw right in just fine, just a different length for the vtec head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didn't say the Y1 tranny is bad. It has the closest gearing out of any Bseries tranny. it just has a low final. It's my favorite. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where does the S1 sit as far as gearing?

 

It has identical gearing to the USDM ITR tranny, JDM CTR tranny, and all USDM/JDM B16a trannies, except for the JDM Y1.