LS Vtec Questions...
He guys, I'm looking for a 94-95' OBD-1 Integra LS as my new daily driver. Reasons for the LS over the GSR are weight, insurance, and price. I would like to know how reliable the LS-Vtec motors are? I travel roughly 90 miles a day to and from work, and would like to run an all-motor setup. Also, would the B18C1 head give me more flow than the B16A? I'm sure it would, just want to clarify. Thanks for all your help!
there is alot of info on here about ls v-tec and th reliability...LOTS!! there are a million opinions on it...but i think if it is done right youll be ok..im currently doin one myself
GS is not much lighter then a GSR and a GSR would be alot cheaper....because once your done with the :s vtec setup you would have spent just as much and still not have full reliability as a GSR...insurence isnt much more either....prolly like 20-40 bucks more a month depending on your driving record.....im 18 have a clean record and im paying 160 amonth full coverage and with road side service.
it's not a matter of insurance cost so much as it is the liklihood of being stolen. if you live in a small town, this isn't much of a concern, but for city dwellers it's a very big issue.
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Weight wouldnt be an issue, it's the same body style unless you get a GS (no power options and no sunroof).
LS/Vtec can be made reliable but in order to do that you can't cut corners. You'll have to dig into the bottom end and install a main block girdle, ARP rod bolts, and since you're in there, some higher comp pistons.
Once it's all said and done, you're probably spend a bit more money on a B18b/vtec hybrid than you would with a GSR. But you'll have more power.
For the head, the B16 has closer specs to that of a ITR head. You'll just have to get it port and polished a lil bit to get it just right.
If you're not into spending alot of time/money, you're better off getting a GSR and calling it a day. Just take off any badges, put on some aftermarket wheels, and no one will know that it's a GSR.
LS/Vtec can be made reliable but in order to do that you can't cut corners. You'll have to dig into the bottom end and install a main block girdle, ARP rod bolts, and since you're in there, some higher comp pistons.
Once it's all said and done, you're probably spend a bit more money on a B18b/vtec hybrid than you would with a GSR. But you'll have more power.
For the head, the B16 has closer specs to that of a ITR head. You'll just have to get it port and polished a lil bit to get it just right.
If you're not into spending alot of time/money, you're better off getting a GSR and calling it a day. Just take off any badges, put on some aftermarket wheels, and no one will know that it's a GSR.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carma_626 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Weight wouldnt be an issue, it's the same body style unless you get a GS (no power options and no sunroof).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only trim levels that don't have a sunroof are ITR and RS. GS has a sunroof.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only trim levels that don't have a sunroof are ITR and RS. GS has a sunroof.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shorto85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The only trim levels that don't have a sunroof are ITR and RS. GS has a sunroof.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is correct.
the GS is an LS with leather seats basically.
RS
LS
GS
GSR
Type - R
The only trim levels that don't have a sunroof are ITR and RS. GS has a sunroof.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is correct.
the GS is an LS with leather seats basically.
RS
LS
GS
GSR
Type - R
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carma_626 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Weight wouldnt be an issue, it's the same body style unless you get a GS (no power options and no sunroof).
LS/Vtec can be made reliable but in order to do that you can't cut corners. You'll have to dig into the bottom end and install a main block girdle, ARP rod bolts, and since you're in there, some higher comp pistons.
Once it's all said and done, you're probably spend a bit more money on a B18b/vtec hybrid than you would with a GSR. But you'll have more power.
For the head, the B16 has closer specs to that of a ITR head. You'll just have to get it port and polished a lil bit to get it just right.
If you're not into spending alot of time/money, you're better off getting a GSR and calling it a day. Just take off any badges, put on some aftermarket wheels, and no one will know that it's a GSR. </TD></TR></TABLE>
weight is still an issue. later cars always weigh more. so get an early one with less weight and OBD-I
.
and once you've but a main cap girdle, ARP bolts and pistons in you'll have like a GSR with high compression, so you'll be ahead of the GSR game anyways.
B16/GSR head doesn't matter much in the long run. people argue over which flows better and the fact that neither side has any substantial data proving their case should tell you that either is just fine, except the GSR head will make for a higher compression ratio and comes with GSR cams instead of B16 cams.
and no, if you take off badges, people will still know it's a GSR. i, for one, could tell, and if i can tell, a theif who knows his cars (duh, it's his bread and butter) could tell.
LS/Vtec can be made reliable but in order to do that you can't cut corners. You'll have to dig into the bottom end and install a main block girdle, ARP rod bolts, and since you're in there, some higher comp pistons.
Once it's all said and done, you're probably spend a bit more money on a B18b/vtec hybrid than you would with a GSR. But you'll have more power.
For the head, the B16 has closer specs to that of a ITR head. You'll just have to get it port and polished a lil bit to get it just right.
If you're not into spending alot of time/money, you're better off getting a GSR and calling it a day. Just take off any badges, put on some aftermarket wheels, and no one will know that it's a GSR. </TD></TR></TABLE>
weight is still an issue. later cars always weigh more. so get an early one with less weight and OBD-I
.and once you've but a main cap girdle, ARP bolts and pistons in you'll have like a GSR with high compression, so you'll be ahead of the GSR game anyways.
B16/GSR head doesn't matter much in the long run. people argue over which flows better and the fact that neither side has any substantial data proving their case should tell you that either is just fine, except the GSR head will make for a higher compression ratio and comes with GSR cams instead of B16 cams.
and no, if you take off badges, people will still know it's a GSR. i, for one, could tell, and if i can tell, a theif who knows his cars (duh, it's his bread and butter) could tell.
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From: Good luck to this industry, you're gonna need it.
Do yourself a favor and DON'T build a lsv for a daily driver UNLESS it's a mild build or a STOCK build. It ends up being more maintenance and miles on your engine AND you have to tune it (chips suck). If you want to do something, just do a light build or a OEM rebuild for lsv and make sure you get tuned properly, stay away from chips.
obviously the other answer is get the GSR, have what you want in a OEM motor (less hassle, no tuning etc) and enjoy it until you can build or turbo it.
obviously the other answer is get the GSR, have what you want in a OEM motor (less hassle, no tuning etc) and enjoy it until you can build or turbo it.
Wow! That changed my mind quick. The 2 main concerns I had were reliability of the L-Vtec and Cost to build and maintain it. I will take your advice and look for a GSR and go from there. I plan to roll a JDM style sleeper anyway. Thanks for the feedback guys!
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Posts: 2,611
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From: Good luck to this industry, you're gonna need it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1fastvtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow! That changed my mind quick. The 2 main concerns I had were reliability of the L-Vtec and Cost to build and maintain it. I will take your advice and look for a GSR and go from there. I plan to roll a JDM style sleeper anyway. Thanks for the feedback guys! </TD></TR></TABLE>
reliability isn't an issue unless it's done incorrectly or it's a BUILT engine. Don't get me wrong, it's a DAMN potent engine if done right. Mine is a daily, and I don't exactly regret it, it's just a matter of me not really wanting to deal wtih putting all these miles on the motor and the fact that it's built doesn't help with gas mileage, tuning is expensive etc...just get your GSR and save the cash to play with it. If I had it to do over again, I would have built the LS and gone LS-T...low boost and a easy tune...def not better on gas mileage but more fun...
reliability isn't an issue unless it's done incorrectly or it's a BUILT engine. Don't get me wrong, it's a DAMN potent engine if done right. Mine is a daily, and I don't exactly regret it, it's just a matter of me not really wanting to deal wtih putting all these miles on the motor and the fact that it's built doesn't help with gas mileage, tuning is expensive etc...just get your GSR and save the cash to play with it. If I had it to do over again, I would have built the LS and gone LS-T...low boost and a easy tune...def not better on gas mileage but more fun...
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