Honda Challenge GSR at ~170WHP. Just bought a Fidanza flywheel and need a PP/clutch for an event next month. Got a price on RPS PP/Clutch for $360. I am researching other options and figured I would get some feedback from you guys.

Thanks!

 

OEM ITR unit legal?

 

OEM PP + ACT 4-puck disc? Thats my next step.... or maybe an aluminum pressure plate if the clamp load is same as stock, I dont want a leg workout to drive it

 

Exedy OEM replacement PP+Clutch.

 

oem PP/disk/bearing !

 

I run stock (OEM) as well in H4. I haven't had any problems with them.

 

I had a stock PP and clutch and it was fine until the clutch blew. I replaced the clutch at the track but did not change the PP or have the flywheel surfaced at that time. I just don't really know when a PP is no good. Do you just mic it or should you change when you change the clutch, in which case I should prolly replace it.

I am installing an alum. flywheel so I thought it might be a good time to do PP and clutch. If the Type R clutch and PP is a good option then I guess I will just go with that.

 

I would get an unspring disc if you can - one less thing to fail. I helped a friend install a 4puck ACT disc w/ stock PP and its fine for the street.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would get an unspring disc if you can - one less thing to fail. I helped a friend install a 4puck ACT disc w/ stock PP and its fine for the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh... I would never run an unsprung disc... Those little springs could save wonders in driveline shock.. Maybe I'm bias because I have used a ACT HD PP and Organic street disk for 4 years. (Includes just a few standing starts/drag races..

 

Yeah, a guy talked me out of an unsprung disc. I would rather the clutch fail than the tranny. I can get the Exedy Racing organic that includes the throwout/release bearing, Pilot bearing for $225. I just don't know anything about them. Anyone with experience? BTW, Spiff tells me I ain't got no 170whp. I will call it 160 then. :-)

 

Exedy Organic is fine..... I installed one in Mike C's car. I did have to adjust the pedal height so that the engagement wasnt on the floor though, not sure if it was an exedy thing or just his car.

 

That will probably do, although, and I'm not making it up, I have heard of more failures with exedy then ACT

 

I was really happy with the Exedy Organic Racing Clutch... It even survived a mild turbo setup for a year; it wasn't until I tried to put around 265 ft-lbs of torque through it that it broke into pieces.

 

Exedy Racing clutch and matching FW here. I'll let you know in the next week or so once I finish welding in the new rad support.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would get an unspring disc if you can - one less thing to fail. I helped a friend install a 4puck ACT disc w/ stock PP and its fine for the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it was ok for the street until it was fully broken in! what a PITA now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elgorey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it was ok for the street until it was fully broken in! what a PITA now</TD></TR></TABLE>

No ****.

So which is worse, the seat or the clutch?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have used a ACT HD PP and Organic street disk for 4 years..</TD></TR></TABLE>

same here.

 

Chris, in my Integra, stock flywheel. I'm on my second ACT high performance street disc. Only replaced it because I was in there putting the diff in. 50,000 street miles, several ProSolos, couple drag launches, it was still in great shape.

Pedal feel to me is perfect - just grabby enough to facilitate nice quick shifts, but not impossibly stiff or jerky.

Scott's car, I believe, uses an OEM Honda clutch, as did the Integra he sold to Phil. He had good luck with his, even without rev matching his downshifts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Uh... I would never run an unsprung disc... Those little springs could save wonders in driveline shock.. Maybe I'm bias because I have used a ACT HD PP and Organic street disk for 4 years. (Includes just a few standing starts/drag races..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on which "sprung" you're talking about!

I know I have posted detailed explanations of this before:
From https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1363408

There are two main types of springs in the typical clutch disc:

1) The "Cushion" spring is comprised of sheet metal formed into a "wave" type spring. You find the cushion spring in between the friction material faces. The reason this is known as the cushion spring is that it is the part responsible for a smooth engagement of the clutch. You can think of the cushion as the "torque valve" for the clutch - as the pressure plate squeezes the disc, this spring, via its deflection rate, controls the amount of torque passing to the transmission. Very important: This is the element that makes the clutch more "forgiving."

2) The "torsion damper" springs are the springs arranged cirumferentially inside the disc assembly. If I am correct, this is what people refer to as a "sprung hub." They are typically coil springs or rubber cylinders. They have one purpose: to isolate the transmission from the torsional vibrations that result from the combustion process. These springs have no effect on the "forgiving" nature of the clutch. They will, however, create opportunities for the disc to fail under prolonged high-speed operation. This is why I suggest getting a disc without them. The torsion damper's purpose is primarily Noise/Vibration/Harshness (NVH) related, NOT durability.

 

I have to swap out my engine (f22- car is 94 accord coupe) so I figure as long as I'm in there I might as well get a new clutch too as mine is coming to the end of it's life.

So here's the question: I already have an ACT HDSS in there, can I just replace the disk itself or do I have to get a whole new complete kit? This will by my first time pulling an engine and replacing a clutch (don't worry, I'll have adult supervision) so it should be a good learning experience. If I do have to replace the whole thing, is there any reason I shouldn't give Exedy a try? I'm prepping the car for H4 if that's any help.

Is there anything else in there you guys suggest replacing/monkeying with as long as I'm in there? Bang for buck only, no sense in wasting cash if it isn't gonna' help lap times...

TIA!