am in the process of doing so, took everything out of the integra already but am having a problem. the passenger side LCA, a bolt that connects the lca and the rotor part, i cant get that bolt off. am using an impact gun and nothing, i think the bolt snapped maybe, but it wont even turn. when i move the lca though, back and forth so does the head of the bolt, i need some help!
i have pics but dont know where to host them.

 

are you talking about the bolt that goes through the rubber bushing. If so many people have a problem with these. I have heard of heating the bolt. and even burning out the bushing but if your reuseing it im not sure. Someone will be able to tell you i am sure.

 

are you referring to the castle nut on the bottom with the cotter pin going through it? you might've stripped the threads.

 

i really dont know what its called, but if u look at the car from the back, its the right side, not the bolt that goes through the strut and lca, its the one to the right of that. u could say its the last bolt holding the lca to the trailing arm if u take out the strut bolt and the bolt that bolts to the body i guess

 

i have a picture but dont know how to post it here.

 

I think that I know what bolt you are talking about. it is almost right under the brake assy. there is a nut welded to the trailing arm. I have had the bolt rust fast to the sleeve and the only way to get them out is to cut the bolt on both sides of the lca. You then have to replace the lca bushing, sleeve, and the bolt. You will need to a press to change the bushing. good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that I know what bolt you are talking about. it is almost right under the brake assy. there is a nut welded to the trailing arm. I have had the bolt rust fast to the sleeve and the only way to get them out is to cut the bolt on both sides of the lca. You then have to replace the lca bushing, sleeve, and the bolt. You will need to a press to change the bushing. good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, thats the bolt, i just need the bolt out cuz am going to replace the LCA's so bushing are not an issue, i just want the bolt all the way out of the hole so i can bolt my new LCA to the trailing arm.
Any other suggestions?

 

burn the bushing with a torch and the sleeve should come out.

 

ok, how much do u guys think it would cost me to take it to a shop

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XkjeldorX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, how much do u guys think it would cost me to take it to a shop</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not very much. It's a fairly common problem and most shops should be able to get it out of the way in about half an hour. Don't plan on spending more than about fifty bucks.

 

i got the bolt out already, went to the shop and they said they couldnt do it till next week and they would charge me atleast 60, could of been more, so i just use my grinder and went at it. now i just have one more question. How do i get the 2 phillip screws out of each rotor? dont want to do it by hand cause i might strip the head. I searched and found that u need an Impact gun? i might be wrong but i just didnt understand at all. help pls

 

i had to dremel the screws throught the middle and use a big flathead to do it, and alot of wd-40

*and also let me give you warning - this brake swap DOES NOT work properly on your car, you will have terrible alignment problems and such i am currently running this setup on my 92 hatch and im having all sorts of problems*

 

you can host pics here http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/


but this swap will not work

 

you use an impact screw driver. or its called an impact driver. you can get it at any autoparts store.

you hit the end and it creates a rotation. its good it works get one. you will have the screws out in 2 mins with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sockvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can host pics here http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/


but this swap will not work </TD></TR></TABLE>


Why will the DA TAs not work on the EG?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sockvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had to dremel the screws throught the middle and use a big flathead to do it, and alot of wd-40

*and also let me give you warning - this brake swap DOES NOT work properly on your car, you will have terrible alignment problems and such i am currently running this setup on my 92 hatch and im having all sorts of problems*</TD></TR></TABLE>
well i did plenty of research and it does fit. i just need to use my stock LCA's so alignment wont be messed up. i talked to a guy that had a rear brake swap from a 92 integra. u just have to use ur stock LCA's. if i was to do the front it would be more work.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kulrevon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you use an impact screw driver. or its called an impact driver. you can get it at any autoparts store.

you hit the end and it creates a rotation. its good it works get one. you will have the screws out in 2 mins with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, thanx, now i just have to search for one.

 

I dont suppose you replaced the wheel bearings on those did you? If so what bearing did you use? Dont suppose you could measure the spindle width and let me know what it is.

I also have DA TAs but am having a hell of a time trying to figure out what bearing to use.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4door_demon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont suppose you replaced the wheel bearings on those did you? If so what bearing did you use? Dont suppose you could measure the spindle width and let me know what it is.

I also have DA TAs but am having a hell of a time trying to figure out what bearing to use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont think u need to change the bearings. u just need to replace the LCA's. the DA lca's are much longer i think so it throws off ur alignment. when i talked to this kid about his rear break swap he just told me he reused his stock lca's and everything bolted up. no problems with alignment or anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XkjeldorX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i dont think u need to change the bearings. u just need to replace the LCA's. the DA lca's are much longer i think so it throws off ur alignment. when i talked to this kid about his rear break swap he just told me he reused his stock lca's and everything bolted up. no problems with alignment or anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They were all messed up so yes I need to replace them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4door_demon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

They were all messed up so yes I need to replace them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
why dont u just use the same type of bearing that came with the TAs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XkjeldorX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why dont u just use the same type of bearing that came with the TAs</TD></TR></TABLE>

Long story. I bought these and they were supposed be DC, but turns out they are not. I already tossed the original bearings.

 

why not buy stock DA bearings than?

 

u were talking about the rears

haha silly me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XkjeldorX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not buy stock DA bearings than?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not that easy, there are 3 different bearings, and I dont know which one I need. Before you say they are all the same, they arent. Tried one and the bearing races were too large for the spindle, which now leaves me with 2 bearings to choose from.