Does anybody have any imput on OBD1 being faster or any better than OBD0?

 

OBDI is not necessarily faster as such. But it is if you are substituting an older, stock OBD0 ECU for the proper OBDI ECU just because you are too lazy/cheap to upgrade the wiring (ie running a PR3/PW0 for a GSR, PM6 for a Z6, or 1990-1991 PR4 for a B18B/B20). However, the real advantages of OBDI are (1) better tuning options, (2) better fuel economy, (3) no cantakerous distributers, (4) no dual oxygen sensors for B-series VTEC applications, (4) smoother running, and (5) emissions legality in CA if you are running a newer motor that requires a gray-plug ECU. I also like the fact that I don't have to scrunch down under the dash and pull back the carpet to read codes.

 

yeah i would go obd1 if i could afford it right now. deffinetly the place to be as far as tuning goes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sanimalp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i would go obd1 if i could afford it right now. deffinetly the place to be as far as tuning goes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why not just do the wiring yourself? It's really not that hard. And in my opinion, hard-wired ECU plugs beat an adaptor any day.

 

well, i want to be able to convert back, so i would want a PnP harness. its hard to find the female end of a obd-0 plug w/o destroying an ecu though. i guess i could sacrifice a dpfi ecu for one.. and i would need a new distributor which is pricey and a conversion for the distributor. basically i just need to keep my eyes peeled in the junkyard so that i can snag some of those parts.. but junkyard honda distributors make me nervous, cause i had one seize while i was driving. so its only new distributors for me from now on. but i could get all the plugs in the yard i guess too.

 

it's not really that much, the harness is like 100 shipped and if you look you can get a p28 for 100-125. The only other thing you need is a 4 wire 02 that you could grab from the junkyard. That's really the basics that you need to wire in OBD1 on an OBD0 car.

 

i would definately go obd1 i have a d16z6 in my rex si and when it was in obd0 it ran okay but had to hook this ghetto vtec switch that didn't guarnteed vtec would kick in all the time, and the car always sputtered. when i did the obd1 conversion (which is not all that expensive) my car ran way better, stopped sputtering, and is faster plus i could actually hear my vtec now!! it's definately way better to go obd1. all you need is the p28 ecu, 4 wire o2 sensor, pre obd0 to obd1 jumper harness, and a civic ex dizzy.

 

ive got a obd1 ecu i am going to convert to p28 to run my setup, but i was under the impression that i need a new distributor as well for obd1. if i could keep my distributor and just get a 4 wire o2, then i would convert as soon as possible. the problem is that even $110 for a rywire conversion harness is more than i can spare..

 

Im actually in the process of converting my obd0 b16a1 to obd1.

Are there any writeups on what is fully needed for a conversion, and what to do? Ive seen some of the nice pinout pics and such, but is an odb1 dizzy NEEDED? Wouldnt an obd0 dizzy with an adapter harness be just as good?

Which ecu is needed for a b16a1 obd1 application?

pgmfi.org &lt;3

Sorry to thread jack, but trying to add to the convo

 

i just found this searching about the obd0-1 conversion.. and you DO need an obd1 distributor... or your car wont run right. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1398937

and here is how to swap the wires. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1349052

 

I'm seriously putting this out there for anyone that's willing to write it down.
IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS LIKE THIS, CALL RYWIRE
Honestly, we love helpin people out with stuff like this, buying from us or not.

I would definately NOT suggest doing the ECU wiring yourself. Infact, I would have someone break apart a ECU for its OBD0 plugs and make their own ECU Jumper before I would tell someone to hack up their OBD0 ECU harness. There's no going back once you do that.
All i've seen are fail attempts in junkyards every week.

You do need an OBD-Compatible Distributor - OBD1 or OBD2
If your OBD1 ECU uses a 4-wire O2 (PR4, P28, P30, P72) You need that as well.
P08 ECU's use a 1-wire O2 still.

Injectors don't matter, they can stay OBD0 or go OBD1. What must change, is the Injector Resistor Box. Saturated injectors use a cap that bridges all the injector wires to 12v+ instead of the IRB delivering 5.5v+.