Before I start on any of my other projects I've posted before I have to fix a couple unexpected problems which recently occured....

1. just about every time I step on the brake pedal to stop, the pedal kicks back at me, and when I accelerate to about 1200 rpm- between 5-10 mph a get this clicking and very annoying sound- buzz whatever you won't to call it like air is escaping. I've bled the system to the best I can and still problem persist. Now this is the wierd part is I keep it steady at that speed- rpm it keep making that sound until the ABS light kicks on and won't do it again, no pedal kicking back nothing. Until I restart the car......

2. Only when I haven't started my car for awhile <for a few hours or overnite> when I start the engine revs really high then it starts fluctuating up and down till I put my foot on the gas, then when I take my foot of the gas it does it again. I don't know if does this b'cuz of my exuast system..

3. And last but not least my once and awhile the needle on my rpm gauge goes crazy, up and down. the last time this happend my distributor was going out but I just replaced my dizzy a few weeks back....

Thanx for taking the time to read this, I've been working on Hondas for awhile but we all need a lil help sometimes...

 

Not to belittle your work, but do double check to make sure you are bleeding your brake system correctly. Then check your master cylinder and slave cylinder.

The throttle fluctuation on startup should have more to do with the vacuum lines on your IM or the sensors there than with your exhaust.

The RPM needle. How often is it happening, and what are the circumstances of the event?

 

It sounds more like a bad ABS than bad brakes. I have a '92 EX with ABS and my ABS light is constantly on, which on Hondas indicates that the ABS component of the brakes is defectives.

I'd recommend having your ABS checked out; if the ABS computer's gone haywire it could trigger the symptoms you're describing. The light coming on and symptoms stopping likely means the car recognized that the system is bad and disabled it for the duration of the drive.

If this is what it is I'm pretty sure you can have someone bypass the ABS, which would give you normal braking power.

Just a thought.