This post is basically a jumble of things and what timing belt I should get..etc..

I bought my 1993 H23/Vtec a year ago from a dealership, its black/black and still in great shape. It has always ran really smooth and strong as hell. I've already driven it 20,000+ miles. I have yet to bother messing around with anything except changing the spark plugs, getting optima battery and such.
Main things I notice are the H23 block and VTEC head of course, it has the Vtec solonoid, theres some "RPM modulator" thing that's attached to the firewall with a fuse and such, there are wires attached to Vtec solonoid from the "RPM modulator" thingy, theres a good CAI with K&N filter, and looks like I have different headers too. No idea if pistons were changed or anything like that either. Theres no way I can find out who did the work either as I've tried.
Car sounds really badass and kicks in strong, note I've not even driven a straight up Vtec yet, I've nevertaken it above 6k, though from what I've gather from other's riding and/or driving my car is that it basically is somewhat faster than a regular Si.

Anyways, what I'm getting at is, I might actually try to see why the Vtec doesn't kick in at some point in time, or maybe even just play it safe and put a regular Si head back on??
Right now though, I would like to learn and find out exactly what the people who did the engine work before actually did and what parts I should try to get when doing maintenance such H22 or H23 parts.
My timing belt is frayed and warped on the side so I need to get that replaced, I'm wondering when I take it to the shop to get this done, do I tell them to use a VTEC timing belt and VTEC waterpump or Si ones? also what other things should I look out for such as when I get my valves adjusted to they do it to VTEC specs or Si...etc... I'm still excited I managed to get a somewhat unique prelude that runs badass but I don't want to mess it up haha I'm ignorant about some things and how to find out info.

thanks


Modified by MadPriest at 9:31 PM 10/18/2005

 

your Vtec has never kicked in before? You sure you actually have a h22 head and not just a VTEC valve cover...?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowblind7x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your Vtec has never kicked in before? You sure you actually have a h22 head and not just a VTEC valve cover...?</TD></TR></TABLE>

h23 valve covers dont fit on h22 heads


to the other dude: you have to get the vtec water pump and timing belt, and i would do that soon if yours is already frayed... same with the valves, vtec specs. someone correct me if im wrong on that though. for the vtec not working...did you check to see what ecu your running? or if its a chipped ecu? or if the vtec solenoid is even wired up to the ecu?

 

Ok I dont even think a vtec valve cover will fit on the h23. so i think thats wrong

But what I do know is that you need to check what ecu you are running. if you are not running a p13(h22) I would get one. It seems they might have done it ghetto at one time maybe still is. It seems like if you have a rpm switch that they are running a p14 maybe and just using the switch to activate vtec. which isnt good because nothing is there to compensate for the extra fuel it needs when vtec kicks in. also you will still have the 6800rpm redline from the p14.


If its been done right it should have these

h22a head 93+(USDM) or 92+ (JDM) with all internals and valve cover
h22a thermostat housing
h22a waterpipe
h22a waterpump
h22a headgasket
h22a lower crank gear
h22a timing belt
h22a headbolts
h22a plug wires
h22a intake manifold (injectors perfered)
h22a header and downpipe
h22a cam gears
h22a top timing belt covers
h22a power steering braket (h23 doesn't line up right)
H22a injectors
H22a ecu (p13)

"oil control orifice" on the H23 block that needs to be removed
Thats internal so you wont be able to tell if they took this out unless you take off the head.

hope this helps

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=510617