DA9- More than the lug nut came off.... Pics.
Hey whats up, I'm sure everyone knows this teg by now,
man thrads of problems etc..
I WILL PREVAIL (spelling?
)
Anyway, Went to take off the lugnuts to rebuild the fron susp and this hapened,
lol, How would I go about replacing this, Grab some off a junkyard da9?
Pics, sry crappy digi cam. there a bit fuzzy

You can see the one that broke, and then he left one melted, I got the car like this.

Thanks, later
Last owner 16/17 beat this car almost to death. I am trying to bring it back to life.
We do something the doctors can't. We bring theses ars back to life,
Even after them being dead for years.
man thrads of problems etc..
I WILL PREVAIL (spelling?
)Anyway, Went to take off the lugnuts to rebuild the fron susp and this hapened,
lol, How would I go about replacing this, Grab some off a junkyard da9?
Pics, sry crappy digi cam. there a bit fuzzy

You can see the one that broke, and then he left one melted, I got the car like this.

Thanks, later
Last owner 16/17 beat this car almost to death. I am trying to bring it back to life.
We do something the doctors can't. We bring theses ars back to life,
Even after them being dead for years.
You can find lug studs @ Junkyards, or you can buy some.
Here are some Skunk2 Extended Lug studs. Thats of course if you feel like spending 50$ for 16 bolts

http://www.racingworks.com/sku...s.htm
Here are some Skunk2 Extended Lug studs. Thats of course if you feel like spending 50$ for 16 bolts


http://www.racingworks.com/sku...s.htm
haha.. omg.. you are just not meant to own that car.
the WHOLE wheel hub needs to be pressed out and then you can replace with new wheel studs.. might as well put ARP since its gonna be off.. and you probably gonna need to replace the bearings.
good luck.
the WHOLE wheel hub needs to be pressed out and then you can replace with new wheel studs.. might as well put ARP since its gonna be off.. and you probably gonna need to replace the bearings.
good luck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intevic_dx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to the auto parts store, they should be less then a dollar each.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a friend that has had nothing but horrible luck with those from auto parts stores. I would seriously recommend getting them from Acura. They're like 5 bucks a pop or something like that. But at least you know they'll be of good quality. The previous owner probably did nothing but remove those and reinstall those lug nuts with an impact gun alll the damned time. To add...I would recommend finding out the torque specs for your lug nuts and using a torque wrench/ bar to put them back on.....every time.
I have a friend that has had nothing but horrible luck with those from auto parts stores. I would seriously recommend getting them from Acura. They're like 5 bucks a pop or something like that. But at least you know they'll be of good quality. The previous owner probably did nothing but remove those and reinstall those lug nuts with an impact gun alll the damned time. To add...I would recommend finding out the torque specs for your lug nuts and using a torque wrench/ bar to put them back on.....every time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Naruto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would recommend finding out the torque specs for your lug nuts and using a torque wrench/ bar to put them back on.....every time. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks like Deja Vu since I just snapped one a few months back. Luckily it was in the rear and removing the hub was relatively easy.
I would definitely get the studs from the dealership to avoid that in the future.
I have heard that you can put it through the hole and tighten it into the hub using washers and the lug to pull it through. I don't know if you can get it in from the back without taking the hub off, so it is really anybody's guess as to how to get them in without removing the hub.
I would definitely get the studs from the dealership to avoid that in the future.
I have heard that you can put it through the hole and tighten it into the hub using washers and the lug to pull it through. I don't know if you can get it in from the back without taking the hub off, so it is really anybody's guess as to how to get them in without removing the hub.
Trending Topics
Honda lugnut torque spec: 80 lb/ft.
I've got a bunch (20) of brand new OEM studs laying around. Let me know if you need a hook up!
I've got a bunch (20) of brand new OEM studs laying around. Let me know if you need a hook up!
To change that you have to take off the hub, it's pressed in btw. Good Luck it might be cheaper to get a whole arm at the junk yard than to go have it pressed out and have the stud put in then have it pressed in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SwedBoy2999 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To change that you have to take off the hub, it's pressed in btw. Good Luck it might be cheaper to get a whole arm at the junk yard than to go have it pressed out and have the stud put in then have it pressed in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I mean If I get it from a junkayrd I will go ahead and take it apart, re-grease the bearing etc...
:sighs: I dont know what I'm going to do.
This all sucks.
Well, I mean If I get it from a junkayrd I will go ahead and take it apart, re-grease the bearing etc...
:sighs: I dont know what I'm going to do.
This all sucks.
The same thing happened to me... and i was riding with 3 for a while... then eventualy i was driving and a 3rd popped off... so i parked it... Needless to say the car had to be moved from the street to my drive way (10 ft) and on the way in 1 of the last 2 broke and the wheel turned about 40 degrees (with the last stud still holding)
I took off the hubs on the front...and pressed new ones in at my friends shop.
Put the hub on and drove for about another 2 weeks until atleast 1 stud on ea. side broke again....THen i realized what it was....THe lug locks i had been using required a special key and a socket to tighten them down... and cuz the socket wrench doesnt apply a central pressure on the stud it was bending the stud as i was turning it....obviously weakening it...
I had post pics of it up on g2ic a while ago ill see if i can find them to humor you guys...
Good luck with the repairs
Modified by VTECepidemic at 12:49 AM 10/19/2005
I took off the hubs on the front...and pressed new ones in at my friends shop.
Put the hub on and drove for about another 2 weeks until atleast 1 stud on ea. side broke again....THen i realized what it was....THe lug locks i had been using required a special key and a socket to tighten them down... and cuz the socket wrench doesnt apply a central pressure on the stud it was bending the stud as i was turning it....obviously weakening it...
I had post pics of it up on g2ic a while ago ill see if i can find them to humor you guys...
Good luck with the repairs
Modified by VTECepidemic at 12:49 AM 10/19/2005
Heres my post from g2ic..... back on April 22nd.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
when it spun it put a gash into my wheel
---------------------------------------------------------------------
when it spun it put a gash into my wheel
^Ouch!
But yeah, just go to a junk yard or pick'n'pull type deal and buy a new rear setup. Shouldn't cost more than 40 bucks and 20 minutes to fix it all up.
But yeah, just go to a junk yard or pick'n'pull type deal and buy a new rear setup. Shouldn't cost more than 40 bucks and 20 minutes to fix it all up.
If you really want to do it right and save yourself the headaches, i would just but the new hubs, bearings, and studs (OEM, or extended). Maybe even new lug nuts too. I'm a dealership *****. I just figure our cars (G2's) are getting pretty old now and it's piece of mind to have new parts on the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SwedBoy2999 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you really want to do it right and save yourself the headaches, i would just but the new hubs, bearings, and studs (OEM, or extended). Maybe even new lug nuts too. I'm a dealership *****. I just figure our cars (G2's) are getting pretty old now and it's piece of mind to have new parts on the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If he's doing that, then he'll also have to get new rotors ( get them turned before actually operating the vehicle ) and new brake pads too! That is....to be safe that is. Not sure if he wants to spend all that money....coz it definitely is NOT going to be cheap!
If he's doing that, then he'll also have to get new rotors ( get them turned before actually operating the vehicle ) and new brake pads too! That is....to be safe that is. Not sure if he wants to spend all that money....coz it definitely is NOT going to be cheap!
One can always get rotors and pads and put on though, while you have to have the hub pressed in, do you see what i'm saying... New brakes are not a bad idea. Cars are a freaking money pit, i know.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SwedBoy2999 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One can always get rotors and pads and put on though, while you have to have the hub pressed in, do you see what i'm saying... New brakes are not a bad idea. Cars are a freaking money pit, i know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh I know! But getting new studs and having them pressed in on all four hubs may be cheaper than buying a pair of hubs from the dealer. It doesn't take much....just a shop press and someone who knows what they're doing
I don't see anything wrong with the hubs from the pics.....just the wheel studs. But according to your suggestion, to get everything new, he'd have to also get ( along with everything you've mentioned ) the new rotors and pads. Not just so that it will be new, but because re-using the old rotors and pads may not be a good idea. Especially after seeing the condition of the car from the pics.
Oh I know! But getting new studs and having them pressed in on all four hubs may be cheaper than buying a pair of hubs from the dealer. It doesn't take much....just a shop press and someone who knows what they're doing
I don't see anything wrong with the hubs from the pics.....just the wheel studs. But according to your suggestion, to get everything new, he'd have to also get ( along with everything you've mentioned ) the new rotors and pads. Not just so that it will be new, but because re-using the old rotors and pads may not be a good idea. Especially after seeing the condition of the car from the pics.
You don't have to have the rear hub off to change the studs, they are a bit shorter. One can hammer them out carefully, getting the new ones pulled tight to the hub is the tricky part, but it's very doable.
i believe there is a way to get the studs out/in without pressing the hub in. i recently had to do this because i broke one on my driverside i just decided to replace all the ones on my front along with the wheel bearings.
I had 2 lugs snap off. This is what I did to fix it a few years back. Never had any problems with the new ones.
Take off the tire, and the rotor and whatever else is in the way.
I used an impact hammer (air tool) to push out the broken lugs. I took a vice grip with a special gripping surface (used for sheet metal) to keep pressure on the hub while I was pressing out the lug bolts (so the hub didn't get warped).
Then I put in the new lug bolts and then put on the lug nuts BACKWARDS (making sure the grooves on the bolts lined up with the grooves on the hub). I set the air wrench I was using to 100lbs I think and then tightend down the nuts. This set the lugs in with no problems.
Or...you could go to discount tire and they will do it for you for $30 a lug I believe.
vice grips I used http://www.toolsource.com/ost/...27QF5
Take off the tire, and the rotor and whatever else is in the way.
I used an impact hammer (air tool) to push out the broken lugs. I took a vice grip with a special gripping surface (used for sheet metal) to keep pressure on the hub while I was pressing out the lug bolts (so the hub didn't get warped).
Then I put in the new lug bolts and then put on the lug nuts BACKWARDS (making sure the grooves on the bolts lined up with the grooves on the hub). I set the air wrench I was using to 100lbs I think and then tightend down the nuts. This set the lugs in with no problems.
Or...you could go to discount tire and they will do it for you for $30 a lug I believe.
vice grips I used http://www.toolsource.com/ost/...27QF5
take it to a shop if you dont want to do it yourself..
the tire shop i worked at could replace the studs for a small price..
and theres no need to get extended studs because your oem lug nuts might not work w/ them...
also be more careful when putting on your lug nuts...always start them by hand and torque them to 80 lb/ft...
its not a problem w/ the parts...its always user error that causes the lugs to get crossthreaded on the stud and break off, or they were overtorqued or rusted.....
the tire shop i worked at could replace the studs for a small price..
and theres no need to get extended studs because your oem lug nuts might not work w/ them...
also be more careful when putting on your lug nuts...always start them by hand and torque them to 80 lb/ft...
its not a problem w/ the parts...its always user error that causes the lugs to get crossthreaded on the stud and break off, or they were overtorqued or rusted.....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Collateral
Honda / Acura
162
Aug 5, 2005 10:47 PM
NIKE SB'd
Honda / Acura
95
Sep 1, 2004 06:29 PM






