just wondering what u guys have for N/A gaskets, got to be thin right

i duno if i should get an aftermarket one or stfu and stick with oem

 

Used OEM for my 1.8L

I use Cometic MLS for my 85mm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redlude94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just wondering what u guys have for N/A gaskets, got to be thin right

i duno if i should get an aftermarket one or stfu and stick with oem </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would an "NA Gasket" have to be thin?

Because NA engines thrive on compression?

Gain compression elsewhere. IE flat faced valves, milled head, taller comp. height
Dont do with a sealing material that prevents pressure from leaking and makes sure oil and water dont mix.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why would an "NA Gasket" have to be thin?

Because NA engines thrive on compression?

Gain compression elsewhere. IE flat faced valves, milled head, taller comp. height
Dont do with a sealing material that prevents pressure from leaking and makes sure oil and water dont mix.</TD></TR></TABLE>



BTW I use Cometic MLS

 

How do the Mugen/Spoon head gaskets work?

I've been thinking about bumping the compression on my LSVTEC with one of those bad boys. Right now I'm sitting at around 12.3(?), with CTR pistons and a PR3 head. (tuned w/ VAFC at 16deg BTDC on 93 pump, never had any detonation issues)

 

b18 oem 2 layer gaket

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVT3K 91 C1V1C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do the Mugen/Spoon head gaskets work? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've never seen a Spoon in person, but from what I've seen from pictures it looks like a modified OEM gasket.

The Mugen is a copper gasket, so it has the benefit of being reusable.

 

We used a Spoon during a build for a B16. Worked out great and seemed like a modified OEM

 

For B series engines:
Spoon's HG is 0.45mm
A 2 layer oem is 0.49mm, a 3 layer is 0.74mm, so the Spoon is something more than just a modified oem gasket.

LSvtec92 hatch is right, an NA build isn't required to have a thinner headgasket. There are many ways to raise compression, the only way to gain a large amount of compression is pistons. Little stuff like HG's, milling, ffv's ect, can be utilized to dial in the exact compression you need for your particular engine package.
I have a 12:1 B18C1, and use an unmodified oem gasket.


Modified by allm0torGSR at 7:10 PM 10/18/2005

 

are you saying that it would be a bad thing to use a thinner head gasket to raise compression up a tad? I'm building a motor in about a month and haven't gotten a HG yet...so this thread could really help me out..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allm0torGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For B series engines:
Spoon's HG is 0.45mm
A 2 layer oem is 0.49mm, a 3 layer is 0.74mm, so the Spoon is something more than just a modified oem gasket.

LSvtec92 hatch is right, an NA build isn't required to have a thinner headgasket. There are many ways to raise compression, the only way to gain a large amount of compression is pistons. Little stuff like HG's, milling, ffv's ect, can be utilized to dial in the exact compression you need for your particular engine package.
I have a 12:1 B18C1, and use an unmodified oem gasket.

[/i]Modified by allm0torGSR at 7:10 PM 10/18/2005[/i]</TD></TR></TABLE>

Which layers for OEM net .49??

The spoon appears to be an OEM with the middle layer and 1 outer layer OEm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris_Bye &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you saying that it would be a bad thing to use a thinner head gasket to raise compression up a tad? I'm building a motor in about a month and haven't gotten a HG yet...so this thread could really help me out.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I am saying i personally am not a big fan of "thin" headgaskets on daily driven vehicles. You have to remove the cylinder head while to install one of these "thin" headgaskets, why not just have the head milled a tad instead. You are raising the compression by creating a smaller combustion chamber, much more effective. Its true you are doing the same with the "thinner" headgasket but the milling is much more effective, and you wont compromise sealing in any way.

 

I completely agree with LsVtec92Hatch. Not to mention it is cheaper... Mugen gasket=$140 or so, Stock gasket $70 + milling $40= $110. No leaks from gasket= priceless!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Used2beAb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Which layers for OEM net .49??

The spoon appears to be an OEM with the middle layer and 1 outer layer OEm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have owned 3 Mugen 2 layer gaskets in my time. It consists of the middle and bottom layers of what appeares to be a oem made gasket..
I have since always made my own by removing the rivets and removing the top layer. I have also on one ocation removed the middle layer just to see if it would seal with only the top and bottom...it did.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I am saying i personally am not a big fan of "thin" headgaskets on daily driven vehicles. You have to remove the cylinder head while to install one of these "thin" headgaskets, why not just have the head milled a tad instead. You are raising the compression by creating a smaller combustion chamber, much more effective. Its true you are doing the same with the "thinner" headgasket but the milling is much more effective, and you wont compromise sealing in any way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i am geting my head milled but i duno how many mm's should i sand off before the valves will touch the block/pistons ??
i just thought a thin gasket would be a bonus but i guess i better play it safe unless somone says that i should get a thiner one with milling already.

 

anything is okay if you want to figure out what compression you want go to c-speedracing.com to calculate it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redlude94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i am geting my head milled but i duno how many mm's should i sand off before the valves will touch the block/pistons ??
i just thought a thin gasket would be a bonus but i guess i better play it safe unless somone says that i should get a thiner one with milling already. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Clay the engine

 

I have used just the top layer of an oem gasket on alot of builds, works fine. I usually stick with oem, or ge overbored oem gaskets

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have owned 3 Mugen 2 layer gaskets in my time. It consists of the middle and bottom layers of what appeares to be a oem made gasket..
I have since always made my own by removing the rivets and removing the top layer. I have also on one ocation removed the middle layer just to see if it would seal with only the top and bottom...it did.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I havent even ever seen one of the mugen and spoon ones. But when i was building my motor we looked at a bunch of pics of them all and it sure as hell looked exactly like the gasket i made for mine out of an OEM one

I love it when people dispute it, but did exactly what u did and I dont have sealing issues either. 12,000 miles almost!.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have owned 3 Mugen 2 layer gaskets in my time. It consists of the middle and bottom layers of what appeares to be a oem made gasket..
I have since always made my own by removing the rivets and removing the top layer. I have also on one ocation removed the middle layer just to see if it would seal with only the top and bottom...it did.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the Mugen head gasket when I had my head work done. It has a great seal to it and I have had no problems.

 

id rather gain compression with a headgasket than milling the head. milling a head is permanent, a gasket is replaceable.
bump for stock 2 layer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2K_EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id rather gain compression with a headgasket than milling the head. milling a head is permanent, a gasket is replaceable.
bump for stock 2 layer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Great point ,it does leave that option later in case you warp your head to have the ability it mill, so you can get that flat surface...such as what happened to me i had .015 removed and with the Mugen gasket along with some other **** i have compression that im happy with.

 

how much diffrence would the oem 2layer do over a complete 3layer ?

 

.2 bump i believe. The thickness is listed in the thread if u wanted you could calculate yourself.

 

Opinions are like A-holes, everyones got 'em. TBone like using the thinner gaskets to achieve a higher static cr. I dont. Does that make him or me wrong? Nope. Just a difference in opinion. Real race engines dont use gasket at all anyway