Wheel balance problems, help me narrow it down...
Hey guys
Well, i have a question, and actually a problem. Let me explain:
Bought 17x7.5 Rota Slips with +48, look great on the lude. But i've had one problem, at certain speeds, 60-70, i have a vibration.
Now, i have a couple of possible culprits:
1. There is a 1-1.5mm difference between the wheel hub bore and the bore of the rims. I talked to the dealer about getting a set of hub rings, but since the width of the ring is so thing, they said it would be hard to make, therefore hard to find. So, the dealer went ahead and did some research and actually found a company that makes one for my specific setup. Sorry i dont have any numbers. Also, since the lugs that are being used are tapered, there's a very good chance that that alone would elminate any wheel movement. That's just what i've heard though.
2. I have lightweight open-ended lugs (metuki i think?) with wheel locks. Now, my theory is that since the lock is heavier than the lugs, its throwing out the balance of the wheel. Could that be it?
3. The ****** rims are out of balance, that simple lol.
So, based on these things, what do you think i should do? What makes most sense? Bottom line is that i know something is out of balance, i just need to know if its a bore size, lug weight or wheel problem. Thanks in advance you guys.
Well, i have a question, and actually a problem. Let me explain:
Bought 17x7.5 Rota Slips with +48, look great on the lude. But i've had one problem, at certain speeds, 60-70, i have a vibration.
Now, i have a couple of possible culprits:
1. There is a 1-1.5mm difference between the wheel hub bore and the bore of the rims. I talked to the dealer about getting a set of hub rings, but since the width of the ring is so thing, they said it would be hard to make, therefore hard to find. So, the dealer went ahead and did some research and actually found a company that makes one for my specific setup. Sorry i dont have any numbers. Also, since the lugs that are being used are tapered, there's a very good chance that that alone would elminate any wheel movement. That's just what i've heard though.
2. I have lightweight open-ended lugs (metuki i think?) with wheel locks. Now, my theory is that since the lock is heavier than the lugs, its throwing out the balance of the wheel. Could that be it?
3. The ****** rims are out of balance, that simple lol.
So, based on these things, what do you think i should do? What makes most sense? Bottom line is that i know something is out of balance, i just need to know if its a bore size, lug weight or wheel problem. Thanks in advance you guys.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pingaturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have the tires roadforced</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure what that is. Is that where the tires are put under a simulated driving experiance? Where could i go to do that?
I'm not sure what that is. Is that where the tires are put under a simulated driving experiance? Where could i go to do that?
Im still looking for some opinions of the orignal post. Could any of the things listed at the top be causing this? Any imput is welcomed and appreciated. Thanks guys.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hank the retard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. difference between the wheel hub bore and the bore of the rims
2. wheel locks
3. rims are out of balance</TD></TR></TABLE>
My money is on 1.
I really, really doubt that it's the wheel locks. But there are two very easy ways to tell, and eliminate this as a possibility:
a. If you have a complete set of lug nuts, try taking off the wheel locks and replacing them with the matching lug nuts. If you still have the vibration at 60-70, then it's not the wheel locks. Or...
b. I assume you still have your old wheels. Try swapping your old wheels on, using the new lug nuts and wheel locks. (Even if the old wheels are stock wheels with a ball seat, and the new lug nuts have a tapered seat, it's okay just for this test.) If you still have the vibration at 60-70, then it IS the wheel locks.
Once you've eliminated the wheel locks as the cause, then have the wheels re-balanced. If they're already balanced, or if it still happens after the wheels are re-balanced, then it's the lack of hubcentric rings.
2. wheel locks
3. rims are out of balance</TD></TR></TABLE>
My money is on 1.
I really, really doubt that it's the wheel locks. But there are two very easy ways to tell, and eliminate this as a possibility:
a. If you have a complete set of lug nuts, try taking off the wheel locks and replacing them with the matching lug nuts. If you still have the vibration at 60-70, then it's not the wheel locks. Or...
b. I assume you still have your old wheels. Try swapping your old wheels on, using the new lug nuts and wheel locks. (Even if the old wheels are stock wheels with a ball seat, and the new lug nuts have a tapered seat, it's okay just for this test.) If you still have the vibration at 60-70, then it IS the wheel locks.
Once you've eliminated the wheel locks as the cause, then have the wheels re-balanced. If they're already balanced, or if it still happens after the wheels are re-balanced, then it's the lack of hubcentric rings.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My money is on 1.
I really, really doubt that it's the wheel locks. But there are two very easy ways to tell, and eliminate this as a possibility:
a. If you have a complete set of lug nuts, try taking off the wheel locks and replacing them with the matching lug nuts. If you still have the vibration at 60-70, then it's not the wheel locks. Or...
b. I assume you still have your old wheels. Try swapping your old wheels on, using the new lug nuts and wheel locks. (Even if the old wheels are stock wheels with a ball seat, and the new lug nuts have a tapered seat, it's okay just for this test.) If you still have the vibration at 60-70, then it IS the wheel locks.
Once you've eliminated the wheel locks as the cause, then have the wheels re-balanced. If they're already balanced, or if it still happens after the wheels are re-balanced, then it's the lack of hubcentric rings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sweet man, that's exactly what i was thinking. Just wanted a second opinion, thanks a lot for the help.
I really, really doubt that it's the wheel locks. But there are two very easy ways to tell, and eliminate this as a possibility:
a. If you have a complete set of lug nuts, try taking off the wheel locks and replacing them with the matching lug nuts. If you still have the vibration at 60-70, then it's not the wheel locks. Or...
b. I assume you still have your old wheels. Try swapping your old wheels on, using the new lug nuts and wheel locks. (Even if the old wheels are stock wheels with a ball seat, and the new lug nuts have a tapered seat, it's okay just for this test.) If you still have the vibration at 60-70, then it IS the wheel locks.
Once you've eliminated the wheel locks as the cause, then have the wheels re-balanced. If they're already balanced, or if it still happens after the wheels are re-balanced, then it's the lack of hubcentric rings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sweet man, that's exactly what i was thinking. Just wanted a second opinion, thanks a lot for the help.
Try jacking up the car and take off your lug nuts. Then put it back on but tighten it all the way with the tire off the ground. This will allow your lug nuts to center the wheel. I did this when I felt a vibration and it fixed the vibration. Look up "lug centric"
Have the wheels/tires been balanced properly? Properly meaning dynamic, not static balance. Some shops (like the one I work at) only do static balance; I'm the only one at work that does dynamic. You can tell it's dynamic if it has weights along the inboard edge of the rim and also along the inside of the spokes.
A vibration at a certain speed range usually indicates a static balanced wheel. Anything else would just get worse as speed increased.
Have them realanced, just to eliminate that variable.
A vibration at a certain speed range usually indicates a static balanced wheel. Anything else would just get worse as speed increased.
Have them realanced, just to eliminate that variable.
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