Last weekend, I was doing some spirited driving (97 Base; around 4.5k rpms). After a while, I heard a "pop" and then lots of tapping/knocking under the hood. While the car still revved somewhat normally, it actually stalled out a few times by itself when coming to a stop (this has never happened before). The knocking starts to come on strong at around 2k and up; otherwise, the engine revs up and idles normally.

Later, the engine seized (heard the distinctive loud squeaking of metal-on-metal action). I checked the oil and the dipstick was completely dry (I got an oil change 2500 miles ago; I thought I would still be good to go for another few hundred miles as normal). I put oil in and started it up -- it squeaked and sputtered and knocked (loudly) for a few more seconds at idle, then the noises and odd rev behavior quickly went away. Right now, the car behaves perfectly normally under 2k, then knocks loudly as the revs increase (haven't gone past 3k), although the tach suggests that the engine revs normally with no odd hesitations or bumps.

Should I salvage the H22A4 and have it rebuilt ($???) or place my order for a Euro-R swap ($4000+labor)? Thanks in advance for the opinions.


Modified by mashoutposse at 10:32 PM 10/16/2005

 

If you can affford the down time, I'd tear it down and do a full bottom end on it sleeves and all. You never specified your plans so it may be a waste of time to put sleeves in. Either way putting in some over sized pistons with new rings, bumping the compression and using some good clevite or ACL bearings is a better idea. A used motor could go soon as well seeing you don't really know its maintenance history or even mileage for that matter. Dollar for dollar doing a hone some new pistons and rings and some good bearings is the better way to go. Just my .02$ Good luck with what ever you choose, but I think you would come in at around $1,000 for a bottom end build with no sleeves.

 

I'm staying NA regardless of which way I go. I'd be happy to put down 190-195whp. I'm looking for the method that will give me the most powerful powerplant while retaining OEM-level reliability for the next 100,000 miles or so.

 

http://www.hmotorsonline.com

 

98vtec -- Did you go with a 92-95 OBDI unit when you did your replacement?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mashoutposse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">98vtec -- Did you go with a 92-95 OBDI unit when you did your replacement?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep