I'm looking at getting some 6 1/2's up front and some 6 x 9's for the rear in my CRX and couldn't find anything through the search. I know the front is pretty shallow and was wondering what is the maximum depth I could go with. For the back...I'm pretty sure I could get them to fit, but was wondering if anyone had any experience with getting 6 x 9's back there.

*edit-btw the car is a 1991 Si


Modified by Sequoyah at 12:01 PM 10/14/2005

 

Mounted in the stock mounts, without mods you can install a "standard" 6.5" speaker that is just under 2" deep, with mods you can install an oversize 6.5" that is about 3.25" deep, as long as the tweeter, [in a coax, 2 or 3 way] does not protrude past the front of the speaker, this is for the front speakers.
The rear speakers on a 91 CRX are the same as the fronts, 6.5", and trying to install 6x9s there will be a problem, and don't forget a properly installed smaller speaker, will sound better then an improperly installed bigger speaker. 94

 

what speakers would u recommend as a replacement for stock. im running an acura headunit. works at 4 ohms i believe. in my crx

 

dude, screw the doors, for best sound get a set of components and get or make custom kick panels. For the speakers I would suggest some cdt ef-61's, I saw some on ebay for 219 plus shipping, they sound incredible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mounted in the stock mounts, without mods you can install a "standard" 6.5" speaker that is just under 2" deep, with mods you can install an oversize 6.5" that is about 3.25" deep, as long as the tweeter, [in a coax, 2 or 3 way] does not protrude past the front of the speaker, this is for the front speakers.
The rear speakers on a 91 CRX are the same as the fronts, 6.5", and trying to install 6x9s there will be a problem, and don't forget a properly installed smaller speaker, will sound better then an improperly installed bigger speaker. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>


o.k. thanks for the info. about the tweeter protruding past for the front...for the back I think I can make the 6 x 9's fit. I'll just order some and see what I can do. I had a box in the back w/ 2 10" JL's. but I need the space so that's why I want to try to get some larger speakers in the back


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by west nile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, screw the doors, for best sound get a set of components and get or make custom kick panels. For the speakers I would suggest some cdt ef-61's, I saw some on ebay for 219 plus shipping, they sound incredible.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've considered some components up front, but I want to go for more of a stealth look and don't want to hack in to the door panels. I'm willing to sacrifice a little bit of sound quality for it.

Has anybody out there put 6 x9's in the rear of a CRX??? Thanks for the replies so far

 

I run 4 Eclipse 6.5" 2ways in my 94 teg, I run no amps or subs, to get good SQ and good bass response I have done a fair amount of custom work for installing the speakers, [no cutting of the door panels] here are 4 tips on getting the best sound out of any speaker......
1- mount speaker to flat surface, [any "twisting" of the basket will misalign the VC
2- make sure you have an airtight seal between front and back of speaker of at least the diameter of the speaker, in all directions from the outside edge of the speaker, [the more of a sealed box the speaker is in the better it will sound]
3- mass.... the more mass the speaker is mounted to the better for bass response, [it's the law of reaction, " for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction" if the whole speaker can move backwards as the cone is driven forward you get loss.
4- a speaker mounted to wood will sound better then the same speaker mounted to plastic or sheet metal.
There is nothing better of bass response then power. [watts], you are using a stock HU so power is an issue, to get the best sound , you will want to look for a speaker that has a high efficiency rating [**dB @ 1 watt 1m]
Again I will mention a properly installed 6.5" speaker is going to sound better the mickey mousing in a 6x9 speaker. I have installed 6x9s in the rear speaker locations of a CRX, and for it to make a diff. it was a lot of custom work, it involved removing the rear side trim, [lots of work] 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I run 4 Eclipse 6.5" 2ways in my 94 teg, I run no amps or subs, to get good SQ and good bass response I have done a fair amount of custom work for installing the speakers, [no cutting of the door panels] here are 4 tips on getting the best sound out of any speaker......
1- mount speaker to flat surface, [any "twisting" of the basket will misalign the VC
2- make sure you have an airtight seal between front and back of speaker of at least the diameter of the speaker, in all directions from the outside edge of the speaker, [the more of a sealed box the speaker is in the better it will sound]
3- mass.... the more mass the speaker is mounted to the better for bass response, [it's the law of reaction, " for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction" if the whole speaker can move backwards as the cone is driven forward you get loss.
4- a speaker mounted to wood will sound better then the same speaker mounted to plastic or sheet metal.
There is nothing better of bass response then power. [watts], you are using a stock HU so power is an issue, to get the best sound , you will want to look for a speaker that has a high efficiency rating [**dB @ 1 watt 1m]
Again I will mention a properly installed 6.5" speaker is going to sound better the mickey mousing in a 6x9 speaker. I have installed 6x9s in the rear speaker locations of a CRX, and for it to make a diff. it was a lot of custom work, it involved removing the rear side trim, [lots of work] 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow! I think I'm convinced to just go w/ some 6 1/2's for the back...I don't want you to say it again I should have posted a little bit more info. about what I have already in the car...let me go look...it's an Alpine 7893 (60 x 4) headunit. I've found some 6.5's for the front that show a depth of 1 15/16"....do you think that would be cutting it a little too close to the 2" mounting depth limit? What you recommend for front and back in that size? I just don't want to overpower the front with better speakers in the rear. As far as bass response is concerned...once I install the new speakers I'll probably end up scrapping the idea of selling my box and just put it back in and suffer (I was going to use some of the money from selling it to fund the new speakers). Thanks for the great explanation and all of your help so far

 

OIC I got you mixed up with gospeedgo1, [he's the one with the "acura headunit"]
I also run the Alpine CDA-7893, [great little unit]
As I said, I don't run amps or subs, and I have been accused of having a hidden sub and amp in the car, when I demo it to customers on what kind of sound/bass you can get without amps and subs, [I autocross my 94 teg LS] I don't want the extra weight in the car or the hassle of removing them every race weekend, also I need the room in the hatch for race tires, tools and stuff.
The front speakers you got should fit as long as they are standard 6.5" and not the new "over-sized" 6.5", if depth is an issue, you can remove the plastic speaker mounting bracket and cut the back off, [only enough so you end up with a hole big enough for the speaker magnet to go through] even though my Eclipse 6.5" fit the stock mounts, [installed on them when I first got them] I have replaced the stock mounts with custom MDF mounts and done a fair amount of Dynamating in the doors, [SQ and bass response was dramatically improved, it even helped the sound stage and imaging] the rears, [like in your CRX] are also "standard" 6.5" and the Eclipse fit right into the stock mounts, they, [the mounts] have since been replaced with custom MDS and fiberglass box's, [again with great improvement in SQ, but a huge improvement in bass response] I have also done some Dymamating in the rear and I have also disconnected the tweeters in the rear speakers, [much improvement in sound stage and imaging] although custom box's in the stock locations in your CRX, while not impossible would be a lot of work, and the stock CRX rear speaker mounts, [metal] are very solid, but replacing them with a custom MDF plate, [made so it isolates the front and rear of the speaker better, although you can do that with a little silicone] will improve SQ and bass response, [hint 4] 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OIC I got you mixed up with gospeedgo1, [he's the one with the "acura headunit"]
I also run the Alpine CDA-7893, [great little unit]
As I said, I don't run amps or subs, and I have been accused of having a hidden sub and amp in the car, when I demo it to customers on what kind of sound/bass you can get without amps and subs, [I autocross my 94 teg LS] I don't want the extra weight in the car or the hassle of removing them every race weekend, also I need the room in the hatch for race tires, tools and stuff.
The front speakers you got should fit as long as they are standard 6.5" and not the new "over-sized" 6.5", if depth is an issue, you can remove the plastic speaker mounting bracket and cut the back off, [only enough so you end up with a hole big enough for the speaker magnet to go through] even though my Eclipse 6.5" fit the stock mounts, [installed on them when I first got them] I have replaced the stock mounts with custom MDF mounts and done a fair amount of Dynamating in the doors, [SQ and bass response was dramatically improved, it even helped the sound stage and imaging] the rears, [like in your CRX] are also "standard" 6.5" and the Eclipse fit right into the stock mounts, they, [the mounts] have since been replaced with custom MDS and fiberglass box's, [again with great improvement in SQ, but a huge improvement in bass response] I have also done some Dymamating in the rear and I have also disconnected the tweeters in the rear speakers, [much improvement in sound stage and imaging] although custom box's in the stock locations in your CRX, while not impossible would be a lot of work, and the stock CRX rear speaker mounts, [metal] are very solid, but replacing them with a custom MDF plate, [made so it isolates the front and rear of the speaker better, although you can do that with a little silicone] will improve SQ and bass response, [hint 4] 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

So are you talking about making "trim rings" out of MDF to fit the outside diameter of the speaker where it meets with the door. If so, what thickness did you use? Would double-sided tape help seal it a little better as well? I found a thread about the JDM 'rear speaker tubes'. I think that could help out as well...I'm not paying the JDM premium though

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=951248


Modified by Sequoyah at 4:34 PM 10/17/2005

 

Yes, kind of, the custom mounting brackets are MDF, [layers of MDF] the first layer is 1/2" and has the same shape as the base of the stock M/T bracket, a little bigger, [it just fits the door "dimple"] I made it bigger on purpose and then did some belt sanding so they would fit exactly, they also mount using the stock holes, although I removed the plastic screw inserts and installed studs on the plate so I could use washers and "nylock" nuts on the studs, [from inside door] for a better mount, the next layer, also 1/2" although smaller, is also kind of shaped like the base, the 3rd and last layer is just a ring, 1", [outside diameter same as the speaker, inside diameter same as speakers mounting hole diameter] The 3rd layer did not need to be 1" for the speakers I have but I was trying to get as much mass as I could into the mount, that is why I also made the base and second layers as big as I could, also the base was made the same shape as the stock M/T bracket so I could use the same mounting holes and to get that airtight seal.

The door is Dynamated, the inside of the outside skin around the speaker, [1 sq ft] and the stock vapor barrier was replaced with a single sheet of Dynamat, making for a very good gasket for mounting the custom MDF speaker mounting brackets to the door, and because they are bolted in, [instead of screwed] they are rock solid, [one other advantage of using studs, they can be installed on the base plate before you glue the next layer on (did I mention the layers are glued and clamped together for about 24 hr) this allows you the install bigger speakers and still use the stock mounting holes]

I also made made a gasket for the speakers out of Dynamat, again for an airtight seal. 94