Is my ebrake cable fucked? pics
I was being brave and took my rear drums apart to see why my ebrake was not working whatsoever and maybe adjust them and this is what I see. This dosen't look right does it?
I would defenitly replace that( or tear all the drum works off and go with a disk set up)but at the very least I would fx what is wrong to begin with
e-brake cables are not hard at all.. from the inside you remove the cover for your center console revealing two philips head screws which may or may not come out depending on where you live and how much corrosion your car sees. In either case remove those, remove the shift **** and remove the two screws towards the front of the center console, then slide the console forward and you may have to put the car into a different gear to get the console to come up, don't scratch your cd player/dashboard. Now remove the bracket holding the cables down to the inside of the car. There are two 12 mm bolts. Now you may have to loosen up the adjuster inside the car to give you some slack enough to release the cables. Once you have enough slack slide the cables out of their fittings and then the cables are ready to come out from the bottom.
Now underneath since you have the drums already torn down, start by removing the b-pipe heatsheilds (assuming they are still there). This may or may not require removal of your exhaust depending on what tools you have or how large, what orientation your exhuast takes. There are two 12 mm brackets attached to the e-brake cables on either side before the gas tank, remove 2 from each side. There is another 12mm bolt that has to be removed from each trailing arm. Free the end of the cable from the actuator arm in the drum by pushing back the return spring, noting the orientation of the actuator arm and especially the star wheel adjuster, if you get this backwards, the adjuster will never work right and you will have to tear them down again. Now using a box end wrench slide it over the end of the cable inside the drum to compress the tangs that hold the e-brake cable into the drum. After this is released, the ebrake cables should be free, installation is the reverse of removal.
All 88-91 crx's equipped with drum brakes have the same e-brake cables, the disc brake e-brake cables have a fitting with a hole at the end that attaches via a clip to the rear calipers
Now underneath since you have the drums already torn down, start by removing the b-pipe heatsheilds (assuming they are still there). This may or may not require removal of your exhaust depending on what tools you have or how large, what orientation your exhuast takes. There are two 12 mm brackets attached to the e-brake cables on either side before the gas tank, remove 2 from each side. There is another 12mm bolt that has to be removed from each trailing arm. Free the end of the cable from the actuator arm in the drum by pushing back the return spring, noting the orientation of the actuator arm and especially the star wheel adjuster, if you get this backwards, the adjuster will never work right and you will have to tear them down again. Now using a box end wrench slide it over the end of the cable inside the drum to compress the tangs that hold the e-brake cable into the drum. After this is released, the ebrake cables should be free, installation is the reverse of removal.
All 88-91 crx's equipped with drum brakes have the same e-brake cables, the disc brake e-brake cables have a fitting with a hole at the end that attaches via a clip to the rear calipers
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