I have a b18c5 running obd0 in my CRX the distibutor bearing is done and I need a whole new distributor.After a little research I came up with 90-91 integra.This does not work!!The plugs match but it wont mount.I drive this car daily and its been out of commision for a week now so i need a quick fix bad.All help greatly apreciated

 

cut off the bottom right wing and bolt it on

 

Have you done this sucsessfully

 

Please someone

 

yes...


do it, its a quick fix.

 

Try Distributor King. I have one for my b16a. It works with no problems.

 

will a b16a obd-0 dist bolt to the itr head? i thought they were the same castings (starting off with anyways)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will a b16a obd-0 dist bolt to the itr head? i thought they were the same castings (starting off with anyways)</TD></TR></TABLE>

EDIT: ALL B-SERIES VTEC DISTRIBUTORS AND HEADS ARE THE SAME.
Same bolt patterns etc... The OBD0 B16 distributor will work fine.
Whoever said the camshafts wouldn't match - Wrong..

Also a ITR OBD0 - NO Bad, wrong, not as powerful as it should be, especially if you don't even have a chipped ECU for it.
See Rywire.com and get the performance out of that engine with a OBD1 setup, you're losing so much if you're running a stock PR3/PW0 ECU.


Modified by NikoZai at 5:34 PM 10/12/2005

 

My freind is convinced that the camshaft and the distributor wheel wont line up properly any feed back on that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NikoZai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a ITR OBD0 - NO Bad, wrong</TD></TR></TABLE>

Easy now, some of us enjoy our PR3s and ITRs... But as you noted, tune it well. A stock PR3 will run it, but it's losing a LOT of power. Chip it and tune it, and OBD1 &gt; OBD0.

Everything will line up fine. I have it running in my car right now.

 

I apreciate everyones feed back.This swap as been extremely reliable for so long,but finding the correct parts have been a headache.Does anybody know a link to replacement parts for this swap

 

why not use a distrobuter king dizzy for jdm obd-0 b-series. thats what im using on my set-up that is similar to yours

 

If you upgrade to OBD1, Rywire has everything you need including the distributor for less than Distributor King:
1. TD-44U Distributor
2. P28 Chipped for the ITR
3. 0-1 ECU Jumper
4. OBD1 VTEC Subharness mated to the ECU Jumper pigtail
5. 0-1 Distributor Adapter
6. 4-wire O2 Sensor

The whole upgrade is pricey, But if you want reliability and the most out of your setup, it's truely the way to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NikoZai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you upgrade to OBD1, Rywire has everything you need including the distributor for less than Distributor King:
1. TD-44U Distributor
2. P28 Chipped for the ITR
3. 0-1 ECU Jumper
4. OBD1 VTEC Subharness mated to the ECU Jumper pigtail
5. 0-1 Distributor Adapter
6. 4-wire O2 Sensor

The whole upgrade is pricey, But if you want reliability and the most out of your setup, it's truely the way to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sums it up right there!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blockhondab18c5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a b18c5 running obd0 in my CRX the distibutor bearing is done and I need a whole new distributor.After a little research I came up with 90-91 integra.This does not work!!The plugs match but it wont mount.I drive this car daily and its been out of commision for a week now so i need a quick fix bad.All help greatly apreciated </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have a decent set of torx bits, you can swap the guts from the LS distributor into your existing obd-0 b16a distributor. (some distributors use regular screws instead of torx).

I propose that instead of converting to obd1, you pick up a wideband and a copy of BRE (available on pgmfi.org). BRE is turning out to be an exceptional freeware rom editor for PR3 and PW0, and even supports boost, maptrace/lambda logging, realtime programability via the moates.net ostrich, etc.
providing you have a laptop of course..

 

...or you could buy my mint condition obd-0 dizzy that has maybe 500 mi. on rebuild see my for sale thread if you want to go this route...

really you should go obd-1. its so much better. i got the rywire 0 -&gt; 1 conversion and rywire makes it so easy (a little pricey but you always get what you pay for). obd1 so much &gt; obd0. obd0 =

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NikoZai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

EDIT: ALL B-SERIES VTEC DISTRIBUTORS AND HEADS ARE THE SAME.
Same bolt patterns etc... The OBD0 B16 distributor will work fine.
Whoever said the camshafts wouldn't match - Wrong..
Modified by NikoZai at 5:34 PM 10/12/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

Except for the intake manifold bolt patterns.. right??

 

This whole thread is just one big sales pitch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This whole thread is just one big sales pitch </TD></TR></TABLE>

Speaking of which, I have (x3) Jdm obd0 TD22U distributors for sale. PM me if your interested.

 

Well I thank you all for your help,I did what they said and hacked off the bottom right arm and bolted it on.Only one bolt lined up but its running.I'm making a bracket to bolt the second bolt on but I'm considering this a temp fix.I definatly am considering going to OBD1 but from what I've read its just as good performance wise to stay OBD 0 and reprogram my ecu and much cheaper.Reliability being #1

 

not sure of your location but if cold temperatures are in your area in the winter, I'd seriously consider changing over to OBD1 as OBD0 JDM sucks **** in winter cold temperatures. I'm on my 2nd sunroof glass. It cracked due to vibrations from hasport mounts and also due to long time it takes for the car to proper operating temps...
HTH

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rioninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">propose that instead of converting to obd1, you pick up a wideband and a copy of BRE (available on pgmfi.org). BRE is turning out to be an exceptional freeware rom editor for PR3 and PW0, and even supports boost, maptrace/lambda logging, realtime programability via the moates.net ostrich, etc.
providing you have a laptop of course.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

A great recommendation as well. The key thing to note is being able to run the best setup for this guy!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Except for the intake manifold bolt patterns.. right?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

true, the gsr head is not pr3, its p72, so it will not match(intake mani only)

Ryan


PS, sales pitch or not, people are still being educated

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try Distributor King.</TD></TR></TABLE>

but swap out the ignition control module/ICM/Ignitor as distributor king's are JUNK. awesome distributors tho.

 

hey you should take pix of what you did. i'd like to see the mod or bracket in the future, just in case i'd ever have to do something of the sort. pix=1000 words. haha if its possible, pics are nice...tia