turbo manifold?what to use for $250
i have a turbo teg w/ an obx turbo manifold not too satisfied interested in knowing what manifold is good to use i.e. durable and not a log style for 250 or less
what is wrong with the obx manifold??? I was thinking about buying it, since it is made of 321 stainless.
For $250, I would go get an ss autochrome one of ebay, and get the welds reinforced. That's worked out well for a friend of mine. It's hard to find a good equal length manifold for that cheap. You could fork out that much and get a used rev hard or drag manifold on ebay, but you're not looking for a log style manifold.
For $250, I would go get an ss autochrome one of ebay, and get the welds reinforced. That's worked out well for a friend of mine. It's hard to find a good equal length manifold for that cheap. You could fork out that much and get a used rev hard or drag manifold on ebay, but you're not looking for a log style manifold.
I dunno about those two manifolds mentioned above. Search HT for experiences with them. VERY negative remarks. OBX and SS Autochrome. There are entire threads devoted to how bad they are.
I'd save up a little more and get something better. Skimp out on paying for a good one, and you'll end up paying more down the road.
I'd save up a little more and get something better. Skimp out on paying for a good one, and you'll end up paying more down the road.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98 Spec R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You get what you pay for!
I would save some more of your lunch money and get a Full-Race manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes!!!!!
I would save some more of your lunch money and get a Full-Race manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes!!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98 Spec R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You get what you pay for!
I would save some more of your lunch money and get a Full-Race manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or you could actually think and realize that you're just overpaying for a piece of metal. OBX/SSAC are fine, just get a welder from Home Depot and reinforce the welds. OR take it to the muffler shop and have them weld it. Either way, you're looking at around $10-50 with a total price tag of $250-300.
I would save some more of your lunch money and get a Full-Race manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or you could actually think and realize that you're just overpaying for a piece of metal. OBX/SSAC are fine, just get a welder from Home Depot and reinforce the welds. OR take it to the muffler shop and have them weld it. Either way, you're looking at around $10-50 with a total price tag of $250-300.
you could buy one from crp at http://www.crpturbo.com i hear its decent, lifetime warranty against cracks to original owner which i was told by them they got a few styles to choose from price is decent for what it is
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well guys, the thing to remember about the cheap manifolds is not that they are cheap; just that they are indeed stainless steel. stainless steel is not as strong as mild steel or cast iron (stainless has a lower yield strength in tension), and therefore when you bolt a turbo (cast iron) to it and then a downpipe (mild or stainless, but thicker and therefore can withstand higher stresses) to that, the stresses caused by the swaying of the exhaust get transmitted back to the weakest link: your thin stainless manifold. hence the manifold cracks. if you had the exhaust hung well and a flex-pipe in the downpipe, i can all but garauntee you an OBX manifold didn't crack.
i'm in on some of the 240 forums and people crack stainless manifolds all the time. greddy, silk road, HKS, they all crack. OBX actually does okay without exhaust support/flex-pipe, although it usually cracks after a month or two anyways. but give it a flex-pipe and support the exhaust and they last forever at any boost level. OBX is one of the most robust manifolds out there, along with full-race.
i'm in on some of the 240 forums and people crack stainless manifolds all the time. greddy, silk road, HKS, they all crack. OBX actually does okay without exhaust support/flex-pipe, although it usually cracks after a month or two anyways. but give it a flex-pipe and support the exhaust and they last forever at any boost level. OBX is one of the most robust manifolds out there, along with full-race.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg1point8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a turbo teg w/ an obx turbo manifold not too satisfied interested in knowing what manifold is good to use i.e. durable and not a log style for 250 or less</TD></TR></TABLE>
Give me some pics, hold it for a few weeks and I'll buy it from you.
Give me some pics, hold it for a few weeks and I'll buy it from you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LoseRPunKx182 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://www.stealthmodeperform...shtml</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmm, I like their B-internal manifolds, $200 Shipped
About the same price as an ssAC, lol
Looks good,
I think I fond where I'll be buying my chip kit and dataloging cables from.
good prices
Hmm, I like their B-internal manifolds, $200 Shipped
About the same price as an ssAC, lol
Looks good,
I think I fond where I'll be buying my chip kit and dataloging cables from.
good prices
just buy a higer quality manifold (full race, inline pro, lovefab, peakboost) thats used. i see them on hear for cheap prices all the time.
My budget for a manifold was 250,
I'm getting that one for $200 shipped, either that or sxpower,
lol so I think for $200 Shiped you can't beat that.
Not everyone has the money for nice lovfab manifolds
Thats why its called HomeMadeTurbo,
I'm getting that one for $200 shipped, either that or sxpower,
lol so I think for $200 Shiped you can't beat that.
Not everyone has the money for nice lovfab manifolds
Thats why its called HomeMadeTurbo,
sorry, i got confused with the cheap ****. it's the Megan i was thinking of that we have found to be almost indestructible, not the OBX. but SSAC holds up just like the rest like greddy and HKS and such when the DP/exhaust is properly supported.
i found a ram horn style manifold for cheap from a friend of mine who purchased it from another friend who decided to use a love-fab top mount ...he only wants what he paid which is 230 bux.....thanx ppl
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carbonall »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got a sschrome one and in 3 weeks --- crack!</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's because you a) didn't have a flex-pipe in your downpipe, or 2) your DP/exhaust wasn't supported/hung properly. read my first post on this topic. it will tell you why this is important.
that's because you a) didn't have a flex-pipe in your downpipe, or 2) your DP/exhaust wasn't supported/hung properly. read my first post on this topic. it will tell you why this is important.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that's because you a) didn't have a flex-pipe in your downpipe, or 2) your DP/exhaust wasn't supported/hung properly. read my first post on this topic. it will tell you why this is important.</TD></TR></TABLE>
correctomundo
that's because you a) didn't have a flex-pipe in your downpipe, or 2) your DP/exhaust wasn't supported/hung properly. read my first post on this topic. it will tell you why this is important.</TD></TR></TABLE>
correctomundo
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by apok »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Or you could actually think and realize that you're just overpaying for a piece of metal. OBX/SSAC are fine, just get a welder from Home Depot and reinforce the welds. OR take it to the muffler shop and have them weld it. Either way, you're looking at around $10-50 with a total price tag of $250-300.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why should you have to fix something that is brand new? The flex pipe will not keep a mani from cracking. Most of the cracking you see is from heat stress. If its gonna crack it will do so if you have it braced or not. Besides why skimp on such a crutial part of a turbo system. Would you skimp on tuning? I quess the ppl that buy the cheap *** manis would. Not that im saying that bracing isnt good, because it is. But if you start with quality parts, you get quality results. End of story
BTW....tuning will help prevent some of the heat stress not just on the mani, but the whole motor
Or you could actually think and realize that you're just overpaying for a piece of metal. OBX/SSAC are fine, just get a welder from Home Depot and reinforce the welds. OR take it to the muffler shop and have them weld it. Either way, you're looking at around $10-50 with a total price tag of $250-300.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why should you have to fix something that is brand new? The flex pipe will not keep a mani from cracking. Most of the cracking you see is from heat stress. If its gonna crack it will do so if you have it braced or not. Besides why skimp on such a crutial part of a turbo system. Would you skimp on tuning? I quess the ppl that buy the cheap *** manis would. Not that im saying that bracing isnt good, because it is. But if you start with quality parts, you get quality results. End of story
BTW....tuning will help prevent some of the heat stress not just on the mani, but the whole motor
i agree with jdmhonda why waste 250 on a manifold then in 3 weeks spend $50-$75 to get it welded then in the next three weeks spend another $50-$75 on welding and so on. then after that you have a big pile of welds around your flanges. when your all done your gonna have spent $450, then another $500 on a decent manifold! full-race all the way




