i have an 95 LS supercharged motor with about 140k..(probably should swap soon, but everything is working strong still)..well i did my compression test and tested at 185-170psi all across.. and when i did my leakdown..everything went downhill..

me and my friend set the gauge at 90psi..but cylinder 1 and 2 tested 35-40psi out of that 90psi..my guess is the valves on those cylinders..

and on cylinder 3 was about the same but air was leaking out of my oil dipstick and out of the oil cap..i believe that would be the piston ring on this one right?

cylinder 4 out of all of them was top notch..highest comp. test and leakdown test..

i just wanted to know if anyone out there knows anything about what is wrong with these..because if repairs and maintenance is going to be a bitch..then ima just swap..sadly tho because my motor feels strong still and has so much potential..

help is greatly appreciated!

 

save yourself a lot of headaches and just get a fresh LS longblock. they're dirt cheap which is why they're great for boosting. see, it's not that they're stronger or more powerful boosted than GSR, just cheaper, so when the motor goes downhill, you pop another one in there and you're all set for another couple years of fun until that one starts going. rinse, lather, repeat. if you do insist on swapping (for something with less torque i might add), i got dibs on that s/c.

 

ive actually been considering swapping to a poormans or something because i find that FI is fun but a lot of things to worry about all the time like maintenance..i was even thinkin about swapping to a gsr and SCing that..if u want the SC..im thinkin bout letting it go

 

my advice would be not to let a s/c LS go just b/c it's probably a sweet mother to drive. torque = . with that and a few bolt-ons you should have most GSRs beat all day long. if you've never driven a GSR go out and find somebody with one who will let you get behind the wheel for a few minutes. i think you'll find that after driving a s/c LS, the GSR isn't really any fun. after you get a little taste of boost, you'll never drive a tiny 4-banger with peaky power again. and yes, 1.8L is tiny, and yes, VTEC almost always = peaky powerband that's slow as hell until well into VTEC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4play4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive actually been considering swapping to a poormans or something because i find that FI is fun but a lot of things to worry about all the time like maintenance..i was even thinkin about swapping to a gsr and SCing that..if u want the SC..im thinkin bout letting it go </TD></TR></TABLE>

NA and Ghetto Type R sucks! Boost is better than the best! stick with the supercharged LS and get a new block like 95lstegman mentioned. get a b20 pulley and boost til u blow urself up, then get another LS block to smoke GSRs and Ghetto type Rs easy...

once u boost, u never loose
- 4play turbo

 

Just to make sure.....did you do the leak down correctly? Were the valves closed on each cylinder you tested? If the valves aren't closed all the way, that can screw up the readings big time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1bad-eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just to make sure.....did you do the leak down correctly? Were the valves closed on each cylinder you tested? If the valves aren't closed all the way, that can screw up the readings big time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, i performed the test for him. i had each cylinder piston at TDC so the valves are closed before performing the test.

 

so far..ive beaten gsr's pretty easily..but "ghetto type r's" probably not right now.. i wanna stay boosting tho..SOMEONE FIND ME A NEW BLOCK or FIND ME NEW PISTON RINGS!!

 

piston rings are cheap as dirt, even at the stealership. like $100/set tops i think. then get your valves and valve seats recut, another $120 and you're done, all you gotta do is buy an intake manifold gasket ($15) and a head gasket ($50) and some rod bearings ($50) and you're done. total price of $335 and you're done. or just get a fresh block. i'll have an old one in a week, so if you want to rebuild or even build up one maybe we can talk. otherwise search the classifieds for a fresh block. should be easy to find.

 

damn..i have no money..if i wanted to just get new rings..id have to take apart the block anyways huh? and while im at it i might as well get a new HG too.. ..i think my valves just need adjusting..havent done it since i got the car 3yrs ago..im just hoping that its just the valves that need adjusting and new piston rings and not anything else..335 for all that stuff and thats not including labor cuz i sure as hell dont know how to do it..

is it necessary to buy a new IM gasket? and new rod bearings? why would i need these? or is it just good to get new ones while im at it?

thanks for the advice keep em coming please!

 

well if you're taking the head off, you'll need a head gasket. and the machine shop (they will be the ones cutting new valve seats and valve faces) won't work with a head that still has the intake manifold still attatched, so you'll need a new gasket. a new exhaust manifold gasket would probably be nice but i've never replaced mine and i've removed it &gt;10 times. no worries there . . . as for the rest . . . in order to get the pistons out, you'll use a ridge reamer on the bores, and remove the connecting rod bolts then get it out from the top. now clean the piston ring gaps and then put the new rings in and point them in the right directions. then hone the bores. when you put the pistons/rods back in you must use new rod bearings (and BTW it would be nice to use the right size since Honda offers select-fit bearings). bolt 'em back up. and a new oil pan gasket is necessary as well. i forgot that, but it's only another $15. most or all of these specialty tools i mentioned can be loaned for free from autozone. just get a GOOD manual like the Helm's manual for your car and you'll be golden. or get a fresh longblock. they're cheap enough and it's much easier to install a longblock than rebuild one. but it's also about twice the price. while you're at it get a B20 longblock. i mean, why not?

 

Leakdown testing should identify WHERE the compression is being lost. Make sure you aren't spending unnecisary money on rings/machining, because that can be quite expensive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by apok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Leakdown testing should identify WHERE the compression is being lost. Make sure you aren't spending unnecisary money on rings/machining, because that can be quite expensive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

from what the test shows..its my rings on piston 3( the second from the left, is that right?) and then i believe it showed my valves on 1 and 2..so on those two..ima try to adjust my valves..and on #3..i guess to put the rings on id have to take apart the block huh? i dont trust myself doing it..so ima probably take it to the shop to get it done if i DO decide to stay non-vtec boosted..

anyone know how much it could be to get all the work done if i wanted to keep my motor? ima pretty much have to rebuild right? from what the lstegman is saying..
new HG, new IM gasket, new piston rings, new oil pan gasket, etc.. how much would that **** cost?

should i get new pistons and rings or just get the rings? damn ima need money

someone buy my rims!

 

if you're going to take it to a shop just get a fresh motor. it will cost a LOT less. a shop will charge you probably $2000+ to rebuild a motor. or GET A FRIEND TO DO IT. then pay him (or her?) with a case of beer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're going to take it to a shop just get a fresh motor. it will cost a LOT less. a shop will charge you probably $2000+ to rebuild a motor. or GET A FRIEND TO DO IT. then pay him (or her?) with a case of beer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i kinda dont wanna take big jobs to a friend because if he messes up then theres no warranty..but with the shop i can bitch at them and say all kinds of things...i dunno.. im confused

 

well that's why you need to find a good friend. or just get a half-way good friend to help you swap a whole fresh motor. it's a lot easier and much less chance of messing something up.

 

i dont kno..im considering a swap though..and probably chargin that motor..but ill have to sell mine that i have to get some money..

 

anyone want a supercharger for b18b/a /b20??

 

Hey man, I did a leakdown on my cylinders today and I got the same kinda readings. Imma rebuild mine for a turbo. My friend know's this company who has a complete rebuild kit for a good price. I know you deciding between a re-build or a swap. What are you planning on doing with your car. You plan on N/A or Turbo?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4play4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone want a supercharger for b18b/a /b20??</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes. and i called dibs. what's the asking price for the kit? and is it jackson racing or vortech or something else i haven't thought of? ::shiver:: i wish i had a procharger kit . . .

 

jackson racing SC for sale! SOCAL preferred but will ship on buyers expense..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asianboii83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey man, I did a leakdown on my cylinders today and I got the same kinda readings. Imma rebuild mine for a turbo. My friend know's this company who has a complete rebuild kit for a good price. I know you deciding between a re-build or a swap. What are you planning on doing with your car. You plan on N/A or Turbo?</TD></TR></TABLE>

im thinking bout gettin a swap..and probably force induct that motor too..addicted to boost

 

anyone have a bad piston ring and still boosted with the b20 pulley?