Can anyone tell me the torque spec of the 22mm bolt on the middle-backside of a the rear trailing arm? It appears to be the backside of the hub assembaly. I didn't see it in the manual?!

Thanks Guys

 

air gun it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublejz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">air gun it </TD></TR></TABLE> Nice and tiiight!

 

Bump with idea: Looks to be the same as the spindle nut (22mm) on the front of the hub. It's rated at 134Ft/Lbs. Same for the back?!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SE7EN3S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump with idea: Looks to be the same as the spindle nut (22mm) on the front of the hub. It's rated at 134Ft/Lbs. Same for the back?!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know which nut you're referring to and yes the helms manual does not tell you the torque specs because that nut is NOT suppose to be removed at all. But that being said I have had it removed and reattached and retorqued to 134 ft-lbs. No issues with it after 4+ yrs since.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lord Helmet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I know which nut you're referring to and yes the helms manual does not tell you the torque specs because that nut is NOT suppose to be removed at all. But that being said I have had it removed and reattached and retorqued to 134 ft-lbs. No issues with it after 4+ yrs since. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks Lord!

 

The Nylock Nut in the back of the spindle assembly (furthest from the wheel) took me about 85 ft/lbs to remove, using a 12 point 15/16 socket (1/2" drive). If you use the same nut to retighten it, you should use some Loctite blue.

If you find a place that sells them (high grade nylock nuts), LET US KNOW!!!

I think 135 ft/lbs for the Nylock Nut will be way too tight. Try it and see... But 135 is definitely the right # for the "Spindle Nut" (the one with the high shoulder that needs to be staked into the spindle assembly). It's supposed to be a fresh nylock nut and supply it's own resistance to come lose as opposed to the staked nut.

 

Bump for more thoughts?!

 

How bout tonight? Anyone?! I got 134ft/Lbs and 85ft/Lbs.

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SE7EN3S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How bout tonight? Anyone?! I got 134ft/Lbs and 85ft/Lbs.

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>134 ft/lbs is the spindle nut, I personally wouldn't tighten the nut your speaking of that tight so I would say 85ft/lbs, but still use some loctite.

 

I say first try 85 ft/lbs, and see what kind of resistance the nut gives. I would be a bit weary trying to torque it to 135... If/when you try it, you'll see what I mean. If you feel more comfortable torquing it to that level, then...

Either way, be sure to use Loctite if you are re-using the nylock nut.

If you still have a trailing arm with the spindle attached (with the nylock nut never removed), then try to get a reading on it with your own torque wrench (I recommend a dual-beam 0-150 ft/lbs, 1/2" drive - $30 Craftsman). Keep in mind that rust and scale might provide different readings. Also, remember the position of your torque wrench when you started your pull (in the 0 ft/lbs position). If/when the nut cracks loose, return the torque wrench to that position and get a torque reading from it.

Let us know what you find, and what you do.

JasonGhostz


Modified by JasonGhostz at 8:15 PM 10/11/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JasonGhostz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you still have a trailing arm with the spindle attached (with the nylock nut never removed), then try to get a reading on it with your own torque wrench (</TD></TR></TABLE>

What a fantastic notion. I can't believe I didn't think of that!!!

Thanks Jason... Again

 

OK.. Just started taking apart my RHS TA assembly... here's what I found...

T-50 Torx Bolts (positions relative to normal alignment (with the caliper mounting brackets toward the rear), pics later..):
rearmost bolt: ~60 to break, ~55 to set
bottommost bolt: ~65 to break, ~60 to set
topmost bolt: ~50 to break, ~60 to set
forwardmost bolt: ~60 to break, ~60 to set

Spindle Inner Shaft Nyloc Nut:
~115 to break, ~100 to set

Method:
- Pretreat bolts on both sides and nyloc nut with 3 in 1.
- T50 socket (1/2" drive) with 3.5" extension onto dual beam Craftsman 0-150 lb/ft torque wrench.
- Place T50 bit (and wrench) into bolt and mark "end of slack" positions for cw/ccw turning.
- Gradually apply pressure to remove the bolt, keeping a close eye on the reading when the bolt breaks loose.
- Gradually apply pressure to set the bolt, keeping an eye on the reading as you return the wrench to its original ("end of slack") position.
- Remove bit and extension and place 15/16" socket (1/2" drive) onto torque wrench.
- Repeat above with nyloc nut.

For the last couple of days, I've been dripping 3 in 1 oil into the holes where these bolts go, flipping it over once or twice to get the head-side. I was looking to break loose a lot of rust and crap, and it seems to have worked. However, it looks like at least 2 of the bolts have "chips" missing from them (BEFORE I started removing them). I can't guess how this may've happened, as there's no uniform rust around the "newly" exposed surface.

But for the nyloc nut, this one was much tougher to remove than the last assembly I had (or maybe I misread the previous one it). Either way, both times were crude readings, as I really don't know how to properly measure such things...

Anyway, I'll post some more pics and stuff a little later. I'll also post more results when I do the LHS. If anyone else is doing this, try to get a reading on these MFers! They're some real ornery SOBs...
JasonGhostz