i was autocrossing my b16 rex today and had a problem. when i was on a staight away i was getting alot of wheel hop and then all of my dashlights went on, oil, CEL etc. i look at the ecu for the code and it was a solid red light. when i shut the engine off and turned it back on it was fine, no cel, and perfect idle. i ran three runs fine and then it happened again in the same place. what could it be? i did just replace my clutch, t-belt, and water pump but i don't think that would have anything to do with it. oh, i also drove it home which is 1.5 hours away and it was fine.

 

If you peel back the carpet and star the car, what does the red ecu light do ? The code should be stored in there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was autocrossing my b16 rex today and had a problem. when i was on a staight away i was getting alot of wheel hop and then all of my dashlights went on, oil, CEL etc. i look at the ecu for the code and it was a solid red light. when i shut the engine off and turned it back on it was fine, no cel, and perfect idle. i ran three runs fine and then it happened again in the same place. what could it be? i did just replace my clutch, t-belt, and water pump but i don't think that would have anything to do with it. oh, i also drove it home which is 1.5 hours away and it was fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

is your ecu chiped? some after market chips are unstable and "crash" the ecu causing the solid lite

 

Sounds like you lost power for a split second, this will cause the ecu light to stay solid. But when you restart the car, everything will go back to normal. Might want to check all your main power connections though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you peel back the carpet and star the car, what does the red ecu light do ? The code should be stored in there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well it was a solid red light, until i shut the car off and turned it back on and then there was no code at all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DieMaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

is your ecu chiped? some after market chips are unstable and "crash" the ecu causing the solid lite</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope, stock PW0

 

Sounds like the power just got disconnect.

 

so the power getting disconnected would cause all of my dashlights to come on??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the power getting disconnected would cause all of my dashlights to come on??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually I should of said that a little better, if you have no power going to the engine, yes all the dash lights will turn on.

 

check ur battery cables...they might be loose. if not it was probly a out-of body experience for ur car?

 

so how could i have no power to the engine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so how could i have no power to the engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Loose wire, the vibration from the wheel hop could of caused it.

Next time your car dies while driving, notice that all the dash lights come on. Basically happens in all cars

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Loose wire, the vibration from the wheel hop could of caused it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya i guess that makes sense. any idea what wires it could be??

 

Could be any power or negative wires, it probably was just a flux. If it keeps happening I would then look into it more. But check the ecu wires, starter wires, battery wires, ignition switch wires. All main wires I would say, if you really wanted to check.

 

well this could be fun. i just put my motor back in and i also just changed my ignition harness.

is there anything else it could be?? could it be the knock sensor???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could it be the knock sensor[/B]???</TD></TR></TABLE>

No

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No</TD></TR></TABLE> Cmon His car has to have a knock after da wheelz hop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ih8jdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Cmon His car has to have a knock after da wheelz hop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you joking ? Even if the knock sensor picked up a knock, the car would not just shut down.

 

Yes
I thought I made that clear with the wheelz spelling.

 

well one time it shut down the other time the dash lights came on and everything but then went off except for the CEL so i drove the car around the course slow and when i got off course i check for codes and it was just a solid light.
Any way that a new clutch with only 200 miles on it could be the cause??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any way that a new clutch with only 200 miles on it could be the cause??</TD></TR></TABLE>
i doubt it... there was no work done as far as electrical goes right?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even if the knock sensor picked up a knock, the car would not just shut down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what happens if the knock sensor does pick up a knock... i was thinking that this might be the case when that guy at the event told you it could have been the knock sensor... bump for answers
-Josh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crimson_Tide &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i doubt it... there was no work done as far as electrical goes right?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well i had the engine out if that counts

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crimson_Tide &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what happens if the knock sensor does pick up a knock... i was thinking that this might be the case when that guy at the event told you it could have been the knock sensor... bump for answers
-Josh</TD></TR></TABLE>
these guys have pointed out that if it were the knock sensor that i would just be getting a knock sensor code and not experience all that lights as well as the car shutting off.

 

Also check all your fuses, push em all down and make sure theyre snug.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crimson_Tide &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wat happens if the knock sensor does pick up a knock... i was thinking that this might be the case when that guy at the event told you it could have been the knock sensor... bump for answers
-Josh</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check engine light will come on, thats all. Well besides the timing being retarded.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Check engine light will come on, thats all. Well besides the timing being retarded.</TD></TR></TABLE>
of course will all of this is going on im at around 7000 rpm if that makes any difference.

i just inspected my car and found a couple of things, one is almost a post in itself
1. my positive terminal was not tight on the post. it didn't have much play but maybe just enough.
2. my intake was wedge between my battery and my frame (wheel well in engine bay) the intake was touching the positive terminal and the frame. there was actually a black hole on the intake of were it was touching the terminal and then on the other side of the intake it was all black and has a couple of small holes and the frame has a spot about the size of a half dollar were there is no paint!

could either of these have done it, i couldn't believe it when i saw the intake.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">of course will all of this is going on im at around 7000 rpm if that makes any difference.

i just inspected my car and found a couple of things, one is almost a post in itself
1. my positive terminal was not tight on the post. it didn't have much play but maybe just enough.
2. my intake was wedge between my battery and my frame (wheel well in engine bay) the intake was touching the positive terminal and the frame. there was actually a black hole on the intake of were it was touching the terminal and then on the other side of the intake it was all black and has a couple of small holes and the frame has a spot about the size of a half dollar were there is no paint!

could either of these have done it, i couldn't believe it when i saw the intake.</TD></TR></TABLE>

definately. that happened to me 3 times til i finally found out wtf was up. about 4 years ago. lesson? make sure everything is tight.

now you need to make sure intake stays insulated from positive terminal. if you make a bracket to keep it apart from battery and the batt. tie down is firm they should never touch. another reason to relocated to the trunk.
after all the car itself is the ground. lol so put something between it. i've seen plastic, cardboard, massive electrical tape and duck tape.