So my set up is going to be a daily driven h22 with f22 and endyne 89mm h22 pistons. I don’t have rods yet but plan on crower maxi lights. I’m going to have the balanced and the main journals lined. If the rods and the pistons are all with in a gram of each other do I need to have the engine balanced? With the internals all different from stock, you cant really make the tolerances any closer, so should I still consider having it blue printed?

Main points:
Do I need to have it balanced
Do I need to have it blue-printed
Can a local shop handle it
What are normal pricing

 

its always god to get you engine balanced after putting in any of those internal parts as for blueprinting thats up to you and any reliable engine shop should be able to handle it

altough im not sure about pricing but it wont hurt you too bad

 

I asked my machine shop to perform this on my 1.8 ls/vtec build, and they told me that cranks and rods available to honda motors are prebalanced to a spec that it would be pointless to pay for this to be done.the machine shop is speed parts in elmsford NY by the way they are a dart dealer and excellent machine shop.

 

When I built my LS/VTEC I had it balanced... might as well do it while you got it apart right? Just one more thing to help the bottom end out.

 

The h23/f22 cranks need to be balanced and hardened if I put it into a h22. I was wondering if I need to have the rotating assembly balanced and blue printed.

 

Hi

Just to add to the query, to balane the engine, wat do I need to balance the engine?

piston, rod, crank, flywheel, crank pully?

Do i need all of these or just some of these would be enuff?

thanks

 

you don't need the flywheel or crank pully. I think it is just crank rods and pistons but I could be wrong, I have never had it done.

 

It's typically said that Honda/Acura crankshafts do not need balancing based on their counterweight design. However, if you're going with anything aftermarket, I highly recommend balancing the setup.

Big blocks and other engines with flywheels / harmonic dampeners attached directly to the crankshaft need to be balanced as one complete assembly, with crankshaft, rods, pistons, weight of oil, flywheel, dampener. These crankshafts are not counterweighted.

 

balancing is like only 250 more. don't be cheap do it right the first time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cyrix12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi

Just to add to the query, to balane the engine, wat do I need to balance the engine?

piston, rod, crank, flywheel, crank pully?

Do i need all of these or just some of these would be enuff?

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you want to do it right you should balance pistons and rods individually, then bolt up the crank, flywheel and crank pulley and have everything balanced together

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Onyxeros &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want to do it right you should balance pistons and rods individually, then bolt up the crank, flywheel and crank pulley and have everything balanced together</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct, the piston/rod/pins/retainers sets should be weight-matched as closely as possible before any balancing begins.

 

not needed on stock honda cranks

 

if you don't do it, you don't know what you have.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Used2beAb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not needed on stock honda cranks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wrong.

My LS crank was a little off when I balanced it for my LS/VTEC build. Get the whole rotating assembly balanced.

 

when turning high rpm numbers, balancing is always a nice little insurance to have. hopefully some of h-t's fine engine builders can chime in on the subject.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nvmyb20hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I asked my machine shop to perform this on my 1.8 ls/vtec build, and they told me that cranks and rods available to honda motors are prebalanced to a spec that it would be pointless to pay for this to be done.the machine shop is speed parts in elmsford NY by the way they are a dart dealer and excellent machine shop. </TD></TR></TABLE>

They meant that the cranks were balanced.... that's independent from the entire rolling assembly. And by the rods being balanced they only mean that they are all within a certain amount of weight of each other.

The whole rotating assembly is a different story.

If the counterweights on the crank were designed to balance the oem rotating assembly and you go out and buy lighter rods and pistons, the rotating assembly will be a little underbalanced, not necessarily a bad thing, some motors are designed this way for a reason.

If I have left out any details, feel free to correct me or add to my post.
-John

edit: At higher rpms, the crank would probably wobble a good bit anyway so I would guess a 50/50 balance is not always ideal for high rpm setups. &lt;--Just thinking out loud... the masters can take over or disregard

 

Realistically you could get away without doing it. But then again if you are replacing the entire rotating assembly then there is on reason NOT to have the motor B&B'd.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jd3jdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At higher rpms, the crank would probably wobble a good bit anyway so I would guess a 50/50 balance is not always ideal for high rpm setups.</TD></TR></TABLE>

some engine builders will "overbalance" the rotating assembly, which is basically predicting what forces will be at a certain rpm range and counter balancing those. there's no real thing as overbalance but that's what it's referred to as. as far as i know, there is no way to measure this other than trial and error, experience is key.

if you change any part of the setup, do yourself a favor and balance the whole assembly. some companies' cranks come in very well balanced, others are way out. sure the assembly will work without balancing, but spend the $100-$200, which is pocket change in most serious motor builds, to be certain your assembly is in balance.

 

Honda cranks that haven't been worked on are usually darn close (within 2grams), pistons and rods that are in original sets are pretty close also. I have noticed that factory honda pistons individually packaged are off a little sometimes. The biggest out of balance i do see is in surfaced flywheels (sometimes over 10 grams off) and pressure plates (sometimes over 15 grams off). balance your crank to 0grams, then bolt the flywheel on balance to 0, then mount the pressure plate and balance. Its no good to balance your crank, rods, and pistons if your fly/pp is 10x more out of balance then what we call acceptable.