car bogging and hesitating really bad :( SOMEONE HELP ME
Ok i have had just about enough of my turbo honda its days are almost over
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1994 acura integra
b18c1 9:1
t3/t4
450cc injectors
255 lph fuel pump
fuel pressure is at 50psi
uberdata/crome(i have both) chips on p72
had dynoed tuned and ran fine at 280whp
bkr7es at .030
fresh cap and rotor and wires
wideband reads steady when bogging right around 13.5 or so
It all started the other day after beatin on it pretty good it died out and would not start. Figured oh its gotta be the ignitor. Replaced ignitor with new OEM and replaced with used coil which i was told worked fine. Car started and drove fine. Get on the expressway and start driving and it almost feels like it starts missing really bad. Sputtering, and bogging, slowing down. I come to a stop and it just stalls right out. I try to start it back up, it wont start. I put the gas on the floor and start it and it barely makes it. I give it a bunch of revs, let off and it idles perfectly. try and drive it, it goes up in the rpms ok then it feels like it hits a wall, rpms drop and it starts bogging like crazy again.
My question is what could this be?
Could a bad ignition coil cause this much of a problem?
ANY SUGGESTIONS WELCOME
someone please help me
background
1994 acura integra
b18c1 9:1
t3/t4
450cc injectors
255 lph fuel pump
fuel pressure is at 50psi
uberdata/crome(i have both) chips on p72
had dynoed tuned and ran fine at 280whp
bkr7es at .030
fresh cap and rotor and wires
wideband reads steady when bogging right around 13.5 or so
It all started the other day after beatin on it pretty good it died out and would not start. Figured oh its gotta be the ignitor. Replaced ignitor with new OEM and replaced with used coil which i was told worked fine. Car started and drove fine. Get on the expressway and start driving and it almost feels like it starts missing really bad. Sputtering, and bogging, slowing down. I come to a stop and it just stalls right out. I try to start it back up, it wont start. I put the gas on the floor and start it and it barely makes it. I give it a bunch of revs, let off and it idles perfectly. try and drive it, it goes up in the rpms ok then it feels like it hits a wall, rpms drop and it starts bogging like crazy again.
My question is what could this be?
Could a bad ignition coil cause this much of a problem?
ANY SUGGESTIONS WELCOME
someone please help me
Do you notice any kind of smoke coming out of the exhaust? any check engine light or have you check to see if your timing snap?
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ok i pulled the plugs today and they look like nothign i have seen before..The tip of them is relatively white (implying lean), yet the rest of the plug is black and almost wet with fuel. Any idea what that means? I'm guessing because of that its not spark, or is it a spark problem?
May I know what kind of fuel injectors you are using? I had the exact same problem and changed out the injectors because they were leaking. No more problems. The problem might be something else but from what it sounds like, it sounds like injectors. Does it take a long time to start in the mornings? If it does, chances are that they are the injectors. Your injectors leaking all night long are going to flood you engine with fuel and it needs to burn some of it before it can spark anything usuable and start the car. Please correct me if you think my theory is wrong. Either way, I had the same problem. Changed out the injectors and no more problems. I'm using RC 370cc btw.
Modified by DC494LS at 6:53 PM 10/10/2005
Modified by DC494LS at 6:53 PM 10/10/2005
As far as your plugs being white at the tip and covered in fuel around the edges, it almost makes more sense. Like the fuel floods the engine, submerging the plug in fuel ( explains fuel around injectors ) and the tip being white ( running lean ). Basically, it looks like you need to get new injectors + work on your tuning more or again. You car might be running lean because there is something wrong with the injectors, so I would check that. Your car is definitely not getting the fuel when it needs it though.
Also, what happens if you nail the gas during the bogging? Will it make boost? If it does, will it keep bogging, or take off like a bat out of hell? If it makes boost and takes off, it might be your map sensor going bad. How much boost are you running? I heard a rumor that stock map sensors will read boost, but they go bad over time. I'm not sure how true that is, since it is a rumor, but it's something to look into. I'm assuming since your running chrome, and uber, that you don't have a map diffuser, and your ECU is reading boost.
it runs fine as soon as i hit boost for the most part..every once in a while it bogs but for the most part its fine. So a bad map would make it run shitty out of boost but fine in boost? i thought the map didn't do much until ur at WOT anyways
the map sensor does a lot during part throttle, it basically tells the computer the manifold pressure, and from there the computer calculates load, and figures out how much fuel and timing to run.
Are you using an FMU? If you are when you make boost, the computer isn't adding the fuel, the FMU does, then it sprays more gas, and off you go. I'm not exactly sure, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if the map sensor is screwed, then during open-loop mode (part-throttle), the performance will be shitty, but under WOT, the ECU switches over to closed-loop, and runs strictly the values in the fuel/timing maps (the tables you program in UBER/Chrome).
My friend had pretty much the same problem, except without the stalling, and not starting. It would run shitty under vacuum, then the boost hit, and all hell broke loose. He changed to a 3 bar map sensor, made some changes in UBER, and off he went. That car runs EXTREMELY strong for an $230 XS Power turbo from e-bay!!
Are you using an FMU? If you are when you make boost, the computer isn't adding the fuel, the FMU does, then it sprays more gas, and off you go. I'm not exactly sure, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if the map sensor is screwed, then during open-loop mode (part-throttle), the performance will be shitty, but under WOT, the ECU switches over to closed-loop, and runs strictly the values in the fuel/timing maps (the tables you program in UBER/Chrome).
My friend had pretty much the same problem, except without the stalling, and not starting. It would run shitty under vacuum, then the boost hit, and all hell broke loose. He changed to a 3 bar map sensor, made some changes in UBER, and off he went. That car runs EXTREMELY strong for an $230 XS Power turbo from e-bay!!


