the car: 93' Accord 4-dr auto with 4-wheel disc ABS system

what i did: i replaced both front rotors and brakes after they were screeching, then i found out that the bearings on the passenger side was shot so i replaced that too and then discovered the caliper on the driver side was also shot so i went to a junk auto shop and bought another caliper w/ mounting bracket, etc. to replace the shot caliper.

The problem: the brakes are very very soft and spongy after brake pads and rotor replacement. Theres a clicking noise everytime i step on the brakes~seems to be coming from under the autoshifter~. Theres no ABS check light or anything. and the power steering works really really good. Can anyone pinpoint me and what the hell is going on?? and how i can get my brakes to work again?

 

did you bleed them fully after changing the caliper?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you bleed them fully after changing the caliper?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes i did bleed them, but i wasn't sure which way is the proper way to bleed an ABS car (knowing that ABS is not my type of cars to deal with) so i started from both rear and moving to both fronts. is this correct??

 

my 98 (w/ abs) helms order is DSF, PSF, PSR, DSR

tho if you bled them fully I wouldn't think the order would matter, I always used to do it rear then front previously tho I've never tried that on my accord

no leakage anywhere? maybe the new caliper is leaking?

I would suspect air in the lines if it's soft & mushy every time you hit the brakes.

 

I've run into the same problem before trying to bleed ABS. It ended up having a bad master cylinder as well so I was never able to go back and try bleeding diagonally but I think you'll find that's the culprit. Helms manual doesn't say anything special about bleeding ABS vs. traditional. I would also bleed by taking a piece of rubber tubing (vaccuum hose or whatever) make sure its a tight fit around the bleeder and and dip the other end in a cup or something filled with fresh fluid. Open the bleeder up and you can pump away without air getting back into the lines. When it stops bubbling you're done. Its a failsafe idiot proof method as long as you make sure you don't run out of fluide in the brake master cylinder.