How do I hook up the door lock/unlock outputs from the 791XV to a Type A door lock system (01 Chevy Silverado). I have the Chevy's door lock and unlock wires verified. A direct connection with the alarm doesn't work, in fact, it blows the 3A Chevy fuse. I also know where they door lock/unlock MOTOR wires are but not whether they're needed. I'm sorry I know this is a non Honda question.

Everything else on the alarm functions, including the starter kill with the bypass module, the remote start, everything.

 

Power Lock lt. blue + brown plug at BCM
Power Unlock white + brown plug at BCM

try using the 455 that comes with the alarm, hook the purple wire to a 12v and only use teh green/black and blue/black

 

Those are the two wires I got.

What do you mean "455"?

 

Edit because I'm a retard and can't read this morning... lol

Not sure why it's blowing your lock fuse... Could be that the alarm isn't putting out enough current to trip the locks... I've done a few of those trucks, and can't remember having that problem though...

I think he means the 451m relay pack that came with your alarm.... Plug the white plug into the white lock connector on the brain, run the purple (fused) wire to 12v +, green/black to the unlock wire, and blue/black to the lock wire. Cut off the brown/black and white black. Should work...


Modified by B18C_EJ8 at 5:10 AM 10/7/2005


Modified by B18C_EJ8 at 5:12 AM 10/7/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do I hook up the door lock/unlock outputs from the 791XV to a Type A door lock system (01 Chevy Silverado). I have the Chevy's door lock and unlock wires verified. A direct connection with the alarm doesn't work, in fact, it blows the 3A Chevy fuse. I also know where they door lock/unlock MOTOR wires are but not whether they're needed. I'm sorry I know this is a non Honda question.

Everything else on the alarm functions, including the starter kill with the bypass module, the remote start, everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>First make sure you have the right wires lock is light blue and the unlock is white you will find them on the brown plug in the BCM, they require a pos. (+) pulse, it is low currant so you can use the outputs from the 791 blue for lock and green for unlock go here http://www.bulldogsecurity.com...s.htm find you truck and scroll down 94

 

No relay pack came with the alarm, but I can try to get it if necessary. Or if I can figure out how it's laid out I'll just make it out of some relays.

Again, I have the right door lock/unlock wires, exactly the ones you mentioned, verified with a DVM that they jump to about 5v and then I tested the door switch after cutting them. Retrieving the wire color info was the first step I took before agreeing to help install this alarm.

Not MY car! I'd never drive this big piece of gas guzzling crap! j/k

Here's the weird part. If I cut the door lock wire and run the alarm lock wire to the door side of the wire, it works. But I want the door switch to also work, so I hook up the BCM side of the wire and it stops working. I thought fine, I'll diode isolate it, but it's a no-go.

The remote start with the bypass module was a breeze and I wasn't anticipating having problems with the door locks. It worked fine when I put a 791XV on a Civic.

 

I'm not sure what the problem is, [other then it's not working] but all I ever do is on that truck is find the 2 wires, test them by supplying 12+ into the plug next to the wire, [so I don't cut anything] I just use a jumper wire I have rigged up with a fuse holder in it, [5A fuse] connect one end to a 12V+ source and then with the other end I peel off one strand of wire and fold the others out of the way and the insert that one strand into the plug, [next to the wire I am testing] if it is a low currant 12V+ "trigger" [ and type A is] it will lock or unlock the doors, [depending on which wire I am touching], if I have the wrong wire or it is high currant, that one thin strand of wire will blow like a fuse.
If I remember right there is more then one light blue.
Also you should not need any relays, the door lock out puts on the 791 are pos. (+) and neg. (-), when you trigger it one door lock wire pulses pos. (+) and the other pulses neg. (-) the next time you trigger it the polarity rev., that's why if the door locks are neg. (-) triggered the green wire is lock, if the door locks are pos. (+) triggered, [type A like in the truck] the green wire is unlock.
It sounds to me like you have one of the door lock motor wires, they rest at ground but one of the 2 motor wires will go 12V+ when door locks are activated and if the wire was connected to the 791s door lock wires that was pulsing a ground, it would be a short and the fuse would blow, sorry it's the only thing I can think of. I have done more then a few of those trucks, without a hitch. 94

 

fcm loves you man! read my sig for futher explanation. muahahahahahahha

 

May be a stupid question but the switch on the door works right?

 

There are four or more light blue wires on that brown plug on the BCM. That's why I think GM is a POS. They barely use any striped wires. Even though the motor wires are supposed to be gray and brown, I'm going to start over on the assumption that I have the wrong wires.

Auex Yes the door lock switches work when I remove the alarm connections.

ATFKuk?? I'm sure what you're trying to convey in your sig. I normally have sigs disabled. I don't care what drama you may have gone through with fcm, this guy is the most patient and most helpful guy in this forum. I'm not here to one up on someone or make myself feel special over the internet like a lot of morons ruining these forums. If I've ever had an argument, I don't care to keep track of it I'll just end up giving them good advice later so wtf. I'm never going to see you people ITRW. (Maybe I said too much but that's the mood I'm in.)

 

Sorry to hijack your thread a little, but a previous post pissed me off....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fcm loves you man! read my sig for futher explanation. muahahahahahahha </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't understand why this site is populated by so many whiny pussies. ******* let it go man... Be a big boy and don't hijack legit threads when people are trying to help....

People like you cause H-T.com as a whole to have a bad reputation...

Anyways, as I said before, sorry to hijack again, but I needed to vent....

Continue on with the doorlock discussion...

 

so you like people giving biased opinions... like saying a dvd player is a good unit when it is crappy as hell.

imagine you asking someone for their opinion, some biased guy answers and says get it, when you get the product you asked for and it was a total piece of junk, you would be ok with that? if youre ok with that, youre a moron. i might be immature handling the situation, but guess what, i can admit fault. which shows i am an honest guy, go read all of fcm's post in the alpine dva-9860 thread, he is outright wrong and cant admit his faults, would you trust this guy with his opinion on things? i wouldnt, if you have a problem with me being an *** to this guy, why even join in, according to fcm's opinion on being a bitch, he feels youre his bitch now and would spread your legs for him in an instant, why help him?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't understand why this site is populated by so many whiny pussies. ******* let it go man... Be a big boy and don't hijack legit threads when people are trying to help....

People like you cause H-T.com as a whole to have a bad reputation...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Ok first.. I've never had an issue with the door locks either. Infact, the Hummer H3 I did the other day uses almost the same wire colors, and also is controlled from the GM BCM. Papers listed a positive pulse, but it really ended up being a negitive (which wouldn't matter other than when you press lock it unlocks and unlock it locks).


Another source I just accessed lists you can find them at the factory relays above the gas pedal. Without looking at the vehical I can't verify this, since I always tag at the BCM with no issues. Positive trigger still.

And to ATF kuk: Dude, everyone is biased. I don't like JL because I Think you're paying too much for the name, even if the stuff *is* build good, puts out well, etc. I love alpine too. I'd recommend their stuff to anyone. I like eclipse, but not as much as alot of other people. my reason? There stuff is too far behind in features, but it's because they want to do it right before they add it. This nakamechi (spelling?) I just stuck into a 97 911 turbo the other week gave me mixed feelings about their stuff. First time I've delt with it. Single DIN 6 disc indash changer/receiver... buttons/***** looked cheap, and the unit had NO sub preout. Now the fact you could detach the high level amp and mount it remotely for tighter spaces was cool.. but the real reason you *had* to do this was to plug in the 2 pairs of RCA preouts and 2 pairs of AUX in's. having that 2nd set of AUX ins instead of a sub preout really turned me off to that unit.

 

If you have a problem in another thread, leave it in that thread. No one clicks on this topic to hear about your unrelated problem.

You're claiming that someone can be proven wrong about their OPINION. That's not really possible especially when his opinion is a product preference. Anyone that makes a purchase based solely on one person's recommendation is taking a gamble. I don't feel sorry for them if they lose that gamble since they were too lazy to do some real research. All you can do is offer your counter opinion and support it as best you can. The people on both sides should be mature enough not to fall into some bitchy little argument.

If you're doing to be a little dick to someone, and they get rough with you, don't go around pointing the finger. You started it now stop being so self righteous and take what you dish out.

Again, I'm not interested in looking at the other thread so if I'm a little off base, oh expletive, I care! *sarcasm*

This topic is has run it's course so if anyone reading this has the power, please lock or delete it. Thanks.

 

Found the solution if anyone still cares about the original topic. The alarm's constant 12v input was sharing the same feed as one of the satellite's constant 12v inputs. I thought it was a long shot, but I switched it to it's own feed, and now the door locks work. It's weird that I had almost no trouble with the remote start and bypass module, but something as simple as the damn door locks gave me hell. I did installs on two Civics and one Integra in the time it took me to sort this out.

Thanks everyone for motivating me to keep at it. I'm sure my roommate appreciates it.