Hi honda-tech

Heres my problem. I did a miss shift at 9k rpm. The max i saw on the cluster was 9.5k rpm. So it probably rev a little higher. The engine, a JDM B18C-R, pulls great but idles like ****. The engine also make more noise( the little cliky heard on honda vtec engine) I know i probably bent a valvle or fucked up the adjustment of the valvles. My question is : Is it safe to drive the car and hit Vtec ? The car will be stored in 3 weeks and as i'm a student, I don't have the money to fix it now.

Thanks for answering

 

sounds like a bent valve to me. i would not drive the car aggressively at all (no VTEC)

run a quick compression test on the motor to verify this. is ur hearing knocking at idle and when u drive the car was well, then u probably bent a rod too or spun a bearing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18option &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi honda-tech

Heres my problem. I did a miss shift at 9k rpm. The max i saw on the cluster was 9.5k rpm. So it probably rev a little higher. The engine, a JDM B18C-R, pulls great but idles like ****. The engine also make more noise( the little cliky heard on honda vtec engine) I know i probably bent a valvle or fucked up the adjustment of the valvles. My question is : Is it safe to drive the car and hit Vtec ? The car will be stored in 3 weeks and as i'm a student, I don't have the money to fix it now.

Thanks for answering</TD></TR></TABLE>

bent valves for sure. Check your t-belt, it may have jumped a tooth.

PS-I wouldn't drive the car at all. Drop valve=New motor

 

u can do a compression test to see if ur compression is still good..psi readings shouldnt vary by more than 10-15 psi per cylinder...
if ur reading come out to lets say 220-220-215-210 that is ok...but if they look like this 220-185-220-215...then its time for a leakdown test to find out exactly where the air is escaping from...

 

bent valves , do a compression test to verify

 

t<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bent valves for sure. Check your t-belt, it may have jumped a tooth.

PS-I wouldn't drive the car at all. Drop valve=New motor</TD></TR></TABLE>


if you must drive. check the engine thoroughly, first.

 

Thanks for answering guys, greatly appreciated

Tommorow, i'll do a compression test. I hope for good numbers but ......
The engine don't seem to have lost power. Just this ******* valves noise and shitty idles

Right now, I drive the car lightly. Everything seems to be OK.

 

bent valve motor might run for a little while but if a piece of the valve or the entire valve would drop your gonna be in trouble so only drive it if its necessary but avoid if u can.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Used2beAb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bent valve motor might run for a little while but if a piece of the valve or the entire valve would drop your gonna be in trouble so only drive it if its necessary but avoid if u can. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Personally I wouldn't risk a $3K motor.

If it's running rough their bent pretty good.

 

yep you more then likely bent a few of your intake valves however it coulda also bent a few exaust cause the exaust valves like to float a little on a misshift, most of the cars that come into my shop for misshifting normally have bent exaust valves the intakes are fine but there is the ocasion when the intakes are bent or totally broke off stuck in the piston, but do what everyone else says check your compression and then a leakdown to back up your compression test


Modified by 2quikmotorwerks at 9:12 PM 10/6/2005

 

why are u reving to 9k on a stock b18c? if power drops after 82k or so why are u up in the 9k numebrs? i dont get why people love to rev there **** as if it's a f1 motor...................

 

idk man i have a B16b with just bolt ons and i rev to 9300 and it pulls it just isnt revving

 

have u dynoed ur motor to see where it makes peak hp? because it if stops at 85hundred rpms then i suggest u lay of the throttle........... no point to be up in those numbers if ur **** aint doing much, more stress, more problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mark_is_gay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have u dynoed ur motor to see where it makes peak hp? because it if stops at 85hundred rpms then i suggest u lay of the throttle........... no point to be up in those numbers if ur **** aint doing much, more stress, more problems </TD></TR></TABLE> exactly.....i loved reving mine to 9k allday.. well thats gone now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbofienD 04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> exactly.....i loved reving mine to 9k allday.. well thats gone now </TD></TR></TABLE>

Stupid is expensive isn't it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stupid is expensive isn't it?</TD></TR></TABLE> no it's wasn't stupid.. it made power up their ..i would post a dyno put i dont have it no more..it was my falt tho for buying a head from a crack head.. i mean literly a crackhead.. the retainers gave and you could figure the rest

 

peak power is not the onley reason to rev high.

if you make peak power at 8200, and rev to 8600, then when you shift youll fall back higher in your power band in the next gear.

IE next gear youll be at 7200rpms instead of 6800, etc.

plus, the faster you get to your powerband and stay in it the faster you are USUALLY.

on a stock GSR 9000 is too much, but 8600 is perfect IMO.

my .02

 

bent vavle... been though it before.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecKiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">peak power is not the onley reason to rev high.

if you make peak power at 8200, and rev to 8600, then when you shift youll fall back higher in your power band in the next gear.

IE next gear youll be at 7200rpms instead of 6800, etc.

plus, the faster you get to your powerband and stay in it the faster you are USUALLY.

on a stock GSR 9000 is too much, but 8600 is perfect IMO.

my .02</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. It's funny how many thought I was crazy reving my stock internal H22 to 8200-8300 rpms, peak power was much lower however keeping the revs higher when shifting to the next gear would net better ET's. I wouldn't recomend reving that high however it ran faster and that was a risk I was willing to take.

 

YUPS it hurts....and machine shop... took me 3 months!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLaCkMaNEg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">idk man i have a B16b with just bolt ons and i rev to 9300 and it pulls it just isnt revving</TD></TR></TABLE>

now you know why your motor is fucked up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLaCkMaNEg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...second the reason y the rotor fucked up is because the it has a shitty distributor, fuel pump, and spark plug wire...</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PLANBmotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

now you know why your motor is fucked up </TD></TR></TABLE>

hahahaha no it's gotta be the plugs and fuel pump and dizzy.....haha