In search of MY ideal spring rates/coil-overs
BUDGET IS EVERYTHING
After driving quite a few hatches over the years I had a 96 black ek with a b16b shoved down inside it that would handle so ungodly it was unbelievable! The fact is the only thing that it had was oem shocks in the front, kyb gr2's in the rear, some red coilovers lowered down all the way, and a custom x-brace in the rear that wasn't even securely bolted in 100%.
MORE PICS BELOW...
Lane changes took a fraction of a second at any speed with no effort and absolutely no body roll at all. Ride quality (which i have no concern of) was pretty much shitty, bouncy on the interstate. My buddies 300+ whp srt-4 couldn't even come close on a curvey road with his MOPAR STAGE 3 coilovers costing $1,600.00 with energy suspension polyurethane bushings, dc cs-2 front and rear strut bars and g-force tires. Oh and my tires really weren't all that good, just some 16" Nitto neo gens.
<U>I now have a 1992 CX hatch </U>with a jdm d15b down in it, no name coilovers, kyb agx 4-ways, tanabe sustec front strutbar, stock everything else and some toyo proxes 4 15" tires. My setup now does not even compare to the EK's: tons of body roll IMHO and some major understeer, it rides rather good IMO, but I honestly do not give a **** about ride quality. I want the best handling possible but also have some sort of longevity out of my shocks, but handling first and formost. I dont want to drop a bunch on some full threaded coilovers knowing that slip-ons did the job before and I couldn't have been happier. I do some autocrossing on the weekends and I'm not going to run this car till I get this problem fixed.
I already plan to go with the Weapon*R floor X-brace, and get some rear pillar bars (maybe em's), along with a lower rear tie bar. another shot of the x-brace
I've looked at the skunk2's on i-4 and they are rated at 400 front and 500 rear, who has these and can I get some feed back. If you have any susgestions please fill me in. Thanks!
-Grant
Modified by K . I . N . G ! at 7:52 PM 10/5/2005
Modified by K . I . N . G ! at 7:52 PM 10/5/2005
Modified by K . I . N . G ! at 7:16 PM 10/6/2005
After driving quite a few hatches over the years I had a 96 black ek with a b16b shoved down inside it that would handle so ungodly it was unbelievable! The fact is the only thing that it had was oem shocks in the front, kyb gr2's in the rear, some red coilovers lowered down all the way, and a custom x-brace in the rear that wasn't even securely bolted in 100%.
MORE PICS BELOW...Lane changes took a fraction of a second at any speed with no effort and absolutely no body roll at all. Ride quality (which i have no concern of) was pretty much shitty, bouncy on the interstate. My buddies 300+ whp srt-4 couldn't even come close on a curvey road with his MOPAR STAGE 3 coilovers costing $1,600.00 with energy suspension polyurethane bushings, dc cs-2 front and rear strut bars and g-force tires. Oh and my tires really weren't all that good, just some 16" Nitto neo gens.

<U>I now have a 1992 CX hatch </U>with a jdm d15b down in it, no name coilovers, kyb agx 4-ways, tanabe sustec front strutbar, stock everything else and some toyo proxes 4 15" tires. My setup now does not even compare to the EK's: tons of body roll IMHO and some major understeer, it rides rather good IMO, but I honestly do not give a **** about ride quality. I want the best handling possible but also have some sort of longevity out of my shocks, but handling first and formost. I dont want to drop a bunch on some full threaded coilovers knowing that slip-ons did the job before and I couldn't have been happier. I do some autocrossing on the weekends and I'm not going to run this car till I get this problem fixed.
I already plan to go with the Weapon*R floor X-brace, and get some rear pillar bars (maybe em's), along with a lower rear tie bar. another shot of the x-brace

I've looked at the skunk2's on i-4 and they are rated at 400 front and 500 rear, who has these and can I get some feed back. If you have any susgestions please fill me in. Thanks!
-Grant
Modified by K . I . N . G ! at 7:52 PM 10/5/2005
Modified by K . I . N . G ! at 7:52 PM 10/5/2005
Modified by K . I . N . G ! at 7:16 PM 10/6/2005
All those bars are kinda pointless. Take the money you are spending on them, step-up and buy a real spring/shock combo.
well i've already got somewhat high dollar shocks (kyb agx), would some custom rated ground controls do the trick u think? if so, what spring rates would you reccomend?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eMpAtHy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">koni yellow + gc at 400/500</TD></TR></TABLE>
think about getting some GC tophats too. This combo is proven by many Honda Challenge cars as well as HPDE'rs and autocrossers. The 400F/500R could be ideal for daily/track (go higher if you can stand it), get a nice ASR rear lower subframe brace as well as a big sway bar, the ITR or the 32mm hollow-race bar, and you will have one bitchin' setup.
think about getting some GC tophats too. This combo is proven by many Honda Challenge cars as well as HPDE'rs and autocrossers. The 400F/500R could be ideal for daily/track (go higher if you can stand it), get a nice ASR rear lower subframe brace as well as a big sway bar, the ITR or the 32mm hollow-race bar, and you will have one bitchin' setup.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K . I . N . G ! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also what makes the GC's different/better than the skunks?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The springs, collars, sleeves, etc. Basically everything.
The springs, collars, sleeves, etc. Basically everything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K . I . N . G ! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also what makes the GC's different/better than the skunks?</TD></TR></TABLE>
everything...but the main thing i like about them is they have eibach race springs on them. im gonna be picking up a pair of 550 rate springs here soon
everything...but the main thing i like about them is they have eibach race springs on them. im gonna be picking up a pair of 550 rate springs here soon
if your auto xing what class does the removed interior braces and swaped engine put you in?
id go with ots you probably wouldnt notice a difference on just the street
it just depends how competitive you want to be racing
since im going to guess you do it for fun since your in a very modded class id put drivability and comfort higher than pure performace
i have 600/600 in my integras and i wouldnt have gone that high if i wasnt trying to be competative
id go with ots you probably wouldnt notice a difference on just the street
it just depends how competitive you want to be racing
since im going to guess you do it for fun since your in a very modded class id put drivability and comfort higher than pure performace
i have 600/600 in my integras and i wouldnt have gone that high if i wasnt trying to be competative
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