I have a 96 GS-R. And i live in NY, so its OBD II and it HAS to stay that way, and pass inspection.

I was told i can use an APEXi VAFC.

Is that pretty much what im limited to?

 

Go OBD1 til smog time, then switch... thats what ive been doing.

If you do enough mods to warrant that VAFC, then you will most likely get a CEL anyway without a conversion.

 

what are u planning to do with the car that warrents needing to be tunned, back in the day when i was n/a i used a vafc, but know that will not pass visual inspection either cause that is illegal as well, but first tell us what u have done and what direction u are going to be going with your car

 

im interested too. im running a short ram intake, and soon to be jdm header with a 2.5in catback. Is it worth tuning? its obd2... vafc?

 

not needed at all, for bolt ons like ehaust, header, air intake not neccessary once u start getting into cams and what not then u will need something, but note a vafc is very very limited and is not good if u decide to change compression ratios or do full out n.a builds or boost applications

 

i wonder if you could take OBD-II ECU housings and put an OBD-I ECU inside and have the conversion harness sautered in rather than plug 'n play with the old OBD-II connector. then you could chip to your heart's desire and have really good tuning. BTW, even with bolt-ons there is more power available from tuning, as well as better gas mileage and better driveability (more power outside of WOT as well).

 

ive seen bolt on dynos before and after tuning, and it can be pretty remarkable. is it worth hondata or something? could a worthwhile gain be had from just a vafc? more input?

 

yes something like hondata or crome or uberdata would be best b/c you'll see a lot of gains coming from adjusting the ignition curve, not just the fuel curve, which is all you can do with VAFC or the like. tuning is pointless IMO if you can't adjust the ignition curve, too.

 

Greddy e-manage is always an option too. It will work with your OBDII.
Make sure you get the injector and timing harnesses and you'll be set.

 

oh god don't get me started on greddy e-manage. you may as well get a VAFC. it's more powerful. although with the greddy E-01 you get sweet tuning abilities, but it's HELLA expensive compared to DIY w/ uberdata or crome or even a professional Hondata setup. of course this would involve something like i mentioned earlier about putting an OBD-I ECU into the OBD-II casing.

 

Bump this..................i am also in the same situation. Does hondata do obd2? How about neptune? Is the vafc really the only option??? Please make a list of possible systems on the stock p72


Btw.....going turbo, about 6-8 lbs of boost

 

ttt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wonder if you could take OBD-II ECU housings and put an OBD-I ECU inside and have the conversion harness sautered in rather than plug 'n play with the old OBD-II connector. then you could chip to your heart's desire and have really good tuning. BTW, even with bolt-ons there is more power available from tuning, as well as better gas mileage and better driveability (more power outside of WOT as well).</TD></TR></TABLE>

cant really do that, they connect to the OBD2 port so if it doesnt respond you fail. what alot of kids have been doing is running OBD1 computers and then putting on OBD2 computers with o2 simulators for inspection time. 98 and under can have 2 readiness codes not ready. so you'll be good if you do it right.

 

or run two computers in parallel, both get signal from all the sensors, but only one sends signal to dizzy, injectors, etc. then use resistors and capacitors as needed to fool the OBD-II ECU into thinking it's controlling stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or run two computers in parallel, both get signal from all the sensors, but only one sends signal to dizzy, injectors, etc. then use resistors and capacitors as needed to fool the OBD-II ECU into thinking it's controlling stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

why would u do this? ur just going to fail smog

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or run two computers in parallel, both get signal from all the sensors, but only one sends signal to dizzy, injectors, etc. then use resistors and capacitors as needed to fool the OBD-II ECU into thinking it's controlling stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Whoa........my brain hurts thinking about it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSTEG96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would u do this? ur just going to fail smog</TD></TR></TABLE>
not necessarily. just don't run huge cams or something. and keep CARB exemption numbers/plaques

 

ok well back to what i was saying. Im starting w/ the block. Im abot to bore it over .25 to put in oversized USDM ITR pistons. Rasing the compression. Then i was gonna get a VAFC II. Im not worried about passing the visuial inspection. ill just hide it or something. Its just gotta pass when it plugs in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2nick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. Its just gotta pass when it plugs in. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea me too

 

Whoever said that it would be pointless to tune a car w/ just an intake headers and a 2.5 catback was definatly wrong. I have all 3 of those and i didn't tune. I wish i did. i would have gotten better than a 15.2 at the track.

 

Ive tried a search, and nothing.......at least here soooooooooooo...........All i need to get for and obd2 to obd1 conversion is a p28 and harness. Then i can get the p28 tuned?? Then to pass inspection, i take the turbo kit off and put back the p72?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2nick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whoever said that it would be pointless to tune a car w/ just an intake headers and a 2.5 catback was definatly wrong. I have all 3 of those and i didn't tune. I wish i did. i would have gotten better than a 15.2 at the track. </TD></TR></TABLE>

And then what maybe you'll hit a 15 flat? It's worthless unless you're doing an all motor build or boost.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jnbhonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump this..................i am also in the same situation. Does hondata do obd2? How about neptune? Is the vafc really the only option??? Please make a list of possible systems on the stock p72


Btw.....going turbo, about 6-8 lbs of boost</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're going boost get Hondata, it'll work with OBDII.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xteg95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And then what maybe you'll hit a 15 flat? It's worthless unless you're doing an all motor build or boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can lose more than 1/5 of a second with tuning. you could probably lose that much on a stock motor with tuning.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2nick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok well back to what i was saying. Im starting w/ the block. Im abot to bore it over .25 to put in oversized USDM ITR pistons. Rasing the compression. Then i was gonna get a VAFC II. Im not worried about passing the visuial inspection. ill just hide it or something. Its just gotta pass when it plugs in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
better yet make a nice set of connectors for it. use real connectors from a junkyard (free). when you're not using the VAFC, plug the connectors together in line (like MAP which the VAFC intercepts) so they go straight to the ECU, and when you do want to have it in (all the time), just disconnect the plugs and plug in the plugs from the VAFC to intercept the signals. do it and you won't have NEARLY the hassle when you go to have it inspected.

 

well i was gonna buy the vafc harness. so it just plugs in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2nick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i was gonna buy the vafc harness. so it just plugs in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
right on. that's what i would do so it's easy to remove and perfectly inconspicuous.