I know there are a million threads on sputtering cars, but none of them seemed to be specifically my situation.

Here is the situation: If I am cruising in 2nd or 3rd gear at low speeds (rpm's are low) and then go WOT it will pull for a bit, sputter and bog for about a 500rpm window (rougly 3000-3500), and then pull just fine all the way to redline. It feels exactly the same as a 92 grand am I had, in that situation the ignition coils had a crack in them and the spark was jumping....anything similiar on my honda motor I could check right a way.

A little background: The ecu is a chipped obd0 pw0 ecu, motor is a built ls/vtec. When I did the swap I calibrated the TPS...no problem until about a week ago I start getting a code 7...so I calibrated it AGAIN. Now I have no code, but it wasn't until I recalibrated the TPS that I noticed this problem.

for some help guys, I appreciate it!

 

anyone?

 

sounds like ignition timing to me.
Check your timing belt and dizzy timing.

 

I had just checked and adjusted timing the same day that I calibrated the TPS. Prior to fixing the timing, it was very advanced....but I thought I got it pretty dead on afterwards. I should maybe check it again????

 

You should make sure you'r at TDC and timing is all set straight. I had this problem on a crappy D series in my old crx i use to own and when the t-belt was changed on it, the bottom slipped a little bit off when being put on, and when i got everything together it had this funny pop or backfire at around the same rpm you are talking about. Well turns out few days later when i got on it, it slung a rod threw the block. Lesson learned for me unfortunetly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Contender25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should make sure you'r at TDC and timing is all set straight. I had this problem on a crappy D series in my old crx i use to own and when the t-belt was changed on it, the bottom slipped a little bit off when being put on, and when i got everything together it had this funny pop or backfire at around the same rpm you are talking about. Well turns out few days later when i got on it, it slung a rod threw the block. Lesson learned for me unfortunetly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

When I did the swap I had to replace the crank pulley...is there anyway that in the process something got messed up? Even if nothing was changed, is it possible that the mark on the crank is now "off"?

I'm not real sure about checking TDC....I'm assuming you mean to check to make sure my cam timing is correct with TDC??? How do I go about doing that? I think it involves turning the motor until the marks on the cam gears line up, and then comparing the mark on the crank pulley and the timing belt cover?

 

Ok these are the things to check....

plugs and wires
coil and igniter
and last but not least your o2 sensor

If your timing is good and you did your swao right, these are a good place to start.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFwithS2000taillights &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok these are the things to check....

plugs and wires
coil and igniter
and last but not least your o2 sensor

If your timing is good and you did your swao right, these are a good place to start. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, I will definitely do these...BUT, the first thing I want to do is check/adjust the cam timing if that so happens to be off...I know that improper cam timing is nothing to mess with.

 

Im having a similiar porblem but at a little higher rpms didnt look into anything yet considering i just bought the car today but I am going to look at the fuel filter as well...besides basic **** of course.

 

Just do what i said FIRST, then what the other guy said. Because making sure you'r cam gear is at UP and you'r block is at TDC is alot more important, imo. If it was me, which i usually do now, i would get it up on jacks and be checkin that **** out from a bunch of angles, makin sure it's right, lol.