I've got Omni adjustable upper arms for camber. Right now camber is set at 0. My car doesn't seem to bite and it feels like now I have under steer (compared to pre-camber corrected days, at like -3 degrees).

What is a good camber setting that's a compromise between tire life and traction? What's a good toe setting? I've heard a little toe in is a good thing.

The car goes in the shop Thursday, and they're going to adjust it to my specs for free (this one time only), so I want to make sure I'm good to go after this one.

 

Camber set to about -2 in front and -1.5 to -1.8 in back.

Toe to factory specs (as close as they can possibly get it with the equipment they have) and make doubly sure the thrust angle is 0.000 (which means they better make sure the rear toe settings are exactly the same on both sides).

*edit* with those settings the car should handle great and I guarantee you shouldn't have any tire wear problems as long as you keep the tires rotated regularly. I used to run -2.5 or more in front and only had a little bit of uneven wear over the course of 35K miles, which means I would wear out the tire all the way across before the inside got down to the belts.

 

Back camber is non-adjustable, I think it's around -1.2. I don't want to go too aggressive in the front, I'm extremely sick of replacing rubber.

Anybody know what the factory specs are?

Anybody know what the factory specs of an ITR are?

 

Trust me, you will be absolutely fine with -2 in front. Just be certain the toe is set to factory specs and that you rotate your tires every 5K miles or so.

In 110K miles (since my car was first lowered) I have replaced tires only TWO times, and am now about to be at the end of my 3rd set. And that's been lowered 3"+ with -2.5 to -2.7 in front, no camber kit at all.

 

Bump for ITR alignment specs.

 

Make sure to set it to factory specs.. If you take it to a shop with an alignment rack they should already have factory specs programed into the alignment comp. . No need to set your front camber to anything else besides factory settings. Theres no change in difference, all your going to do is wear out you tires prematurely. Changing camber would really matter if your car was setup for road tracks or on a fully balanced road course car.. But you wont feel any difference in camber in a daily driver driving around town.

 

i went to get an alignment, they said my car was too low and the bumper was blocking the alignment thing they put on the tires. so if your car low you might wanna take your bumper off before you go in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cnaman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have my front and rear set to 0.

everything set to zero, toe, camber, etc.

my tire wear is basically even.

The longest tires i ever had. 3 years and still about 95% thread left in the rear.

about 80% left on the front.

gots some old school falken, they dont make these no more. </TD></TR></TABLE>

wow, 0 camber huh

the ITR even has a little bit of negative camber in the specs, like -0.5 or something. Depending on how much the car is lowered and how big the tires are, they will be much more likely to rub with 0 camber than it would with some negative camber.

But again like I said, as long as the toe is set to factory specs you can safely run up to about -2 or so and not have any tire wear problems.

 

im running -2.5 front and like -2 rears, and i have no abnormal wear on my tires. with my toe set to 0.

 

forgot to add, the ITR's camber specs have a little negative camber due to the fact that it sits about 20mm lower than non-ITR's at stock ride height.

 

i had my toe set at 0 and my camber set about almost -2 and i still ate up the inside of the tire all the time and i got sick of it
so i went back to the tire shop and has my camber set to as clost as 0. its now at -.25 and my tires finally wear evenly.
sure it wont handel as good but for street use i just want my tires to wear evenly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by riceball777 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had my toe set at 0 and my camber set about almost -2 and i still ate up the inside of the tire all the time and i got sick of it
so i went back to the tire shop and has my camber set to as clost as 0. its now at -.25 and my tires finally wear evenly.
sure it wont handel as good but for street use i just want my tires to wear evenly</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you get a printout verifying that they truly did have the toe set to 0, and also that the thrust angle was at 0?

My tires would wear on the inside a little bit faster than the rest of the tire, but it would usually be like 15K miles before it started to show, and I've been getting 35K+ miles out of V-rated ES100's and W-rated Sumitomo HTR-Z II's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wow, 0 camber huh

the ITR even has a little bit of negative camber in the specs, like -0.5 or something. Depending on how much the car is lowered and how big the tires are, they will be much more likely to rub with 0 camber than it would with some negative camber.

But again like I said, as long as the toe is set to factory specs you can safely run up to about -2 or so and not have any tire wear problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Called Acura - ITR runs -0 degrees, .3' +/- 1 in the front, with zero toe, and -0 degrees, .75' in the rear, with 2 mm toe in.

I'm going to have mine set at -1.75 in the front, with zero toe, leave the rear where it is (like -1.25 or something, using the washer trick), with 2mm toe in.

I'm going to mark the front upper control arms so I know where they're at now (0 degrees camber), that way I can move them back if I see too much wear.

THANKS!

 

sounds good to me.

But if you get tire wear with only -1.75 I wouldn't move them back to zero, I would take it back to the shop and tell them to fix it because they obviously didn't do something right.

Make sure you get a printout of the settings. Ask for it before you let them have the car. If they can't provide you with one, take it somewhere else.