building ls?
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From: oakland, CA, United States
building ls?
I have a 94 ls right and it has a 105k miles on it. Yeah I kno it's a lot of miles but everything is in good condition. I was just wondering how much it would cost to rebuild and go ls vtec or if it was worth the trouble or just go for a whole new swap. I was thinkin k20a maybe?Thanks
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Re: building ls? (chex329)
i know how u feel. i got a 94 ls with 115k miles. i put on every bolt-on. still not enough. lsvtec is cool, but a lot of work but not enough bang for the buck. k20 is gonna set you back a good 6 or 7k in the end. so my choice? im getting a new car. lol good luck on your decision.
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From: Bellevue, Washington, USA
I'm kind of in the same situation. I was going to do a k20 swap, until I realized the cost factor. It is going to be quite expensive to do the complete swap, and I decided to just take that money and build all motor + b16 tranny, and then turbo. Hopefully I made the right decision.
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Re: building ls? (elephantegra)
but isn't it just more then compression and leakdown tests? Wouldn't I have to rebuild everything because it's so old and its seen so many miles to go ls turbo or ls vtec?
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Will you make something up for me please?
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From: SoCal
Re: building ls? (chex329)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chex329 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but isn't it just more then compression and leakdown tests? Wouldn't I have to rebuild everything because it's so old and its seen so many miles to go ls turbo or ls vtec?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, that's it. That determines if your motor is good and holding compression. The pieces that hold compression are your seals and rings (i.e.: wear items in your engine that would be replaced in a rebuild).
Like Kendall said, mileage and age are definitely not good determining factors for condition/reliability of a motor. "If it aint broke, don't fix it."
The reasons people rebuild for performance are:
1. The motor is not holding compression
2. They want to build for lots of power, which requires aftermarket (non-OEM) internals such as pistons, rods, valves, etc.
If you are any of those above, then you can look into rebuilding the motor. If not, don't waste your money. It won't do anything, and you'll end up with the same performance motor as you began with, but with $1500+ less in your wallet.
No, that's it. That determines if your motor is good and holding compression. The pieces that hold compression are your seals and rings (i.e.: wear items in your engine that would be replaced in a rebuild).
Like Kendall said, mileage and age are definitely not good determining factors for condition/reliability of a motor. "If it aint broke, don't fix it."
The reasons people rebuild for performance are:
1. The motor is not holding compression
2. They want to build for lots of power, which requires aftermarket (non-OEM) internals such as pistons, rods, valves, etc.
If you are any of those above, then you can look into rebuilding the motor. If not, don't waste your money. It won't do anything, and you'll end up with the same performance motor as you began with, but with $1500+ less in your wallet.
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From: Bellevue, Washington, USA
Re: building ls? (shamoo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shampoo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The reasons people rebuild for performance are:
1. The motor is not holding compression
2. They want to build for lots of power, which requires aftermarket (non-OEM) internals such as pistons, rods, valves, etc.
If you are any of those above, then you can look into rebuilding the motor. If not, don't waste your money. It won't do anything, and you'll end up with the same performance motor as you began with, but with $1500+ less in your wallet
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very well put.
In regards to chex, my plans of rebuilding + ls/vtec + turbo are in the works as of right now. I haven't done them yet as I am still working on the $$$ to back up my aspirations. In due time though. My suggestion to you is to decide what your end goal is going to be, from that you can see what avenues you can take to get there.
The reasons people rebuild for performance are:
1. The motor is not holding compression
2. They want to build for lots of power, which requires aftermarket (non-OEM) internals such as pistons, rods, valves, etc.
If you are any of those above, then you can look into rebuilding the motor. If not, don't waste your money. It won't do anything, and you'll end up with the same performance motor as you began with, but with $1500+ less in your wallet
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very well put.
In regards to chex, my plans of rebuilding + ls/vtec + turbo are in the works as of right now. I haven't done them yet as I am still working on the $$$ to back up my aspirations. In due time though. My suggestion to you is to decide what your end goal is going to be, from that you can see what avenues you can take to get there.
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Re: building ls? (justin.parker)
Alright thanks guys. So say if my compression is all good and the leakdown tests come back good as well I still would like to go ls turbo. Then what would be my next step? To check the engine internals to see if they can hold up or would I just upgrade to aftermarket parts anyway because I'm going turbo?
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From: Bluffton, SC
Re: building ls? (chex329)
LS/Turbo is a good combo. The LS has low compression stock, and that is perfect for turbo. On stock internals, you can run about 6-10 PSI, and put down around 235-270 to the wheels, which is more than enough to kick a lot of people's asses in a race. Your next step would be to start buying turbo parts, and parts that might make your engine run better on boost, such as ignition work, or a fuel pump. If you decide to go boost, don't cheap out on anything. Do your homework on what works and what doesn't. If you buy cheap parts, you'll get cheap results. Let's say you getto-rig your oil lines going to and from the turbo, and buy cheap **** just to make it work, when that $2.00 part fails and sprays oil all over the ground and your engine compartment, buy the time you realize what happens, your oil light comes on, and your motor and turbo get destroyed. Bottom line, if your going to do it, do it right. Just a word of advise. Good luck with whatever setup you choose.
Will you make something up for me please?
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From: SoCal
Re: building ls? (chex329)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chex329 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright thanks guys. So say if my compression is all good and the leakdown tests come back good as well I still would like to go ls turbo. Then what would be my next step? To check the engine internals to see if they can hold up or would I just upgrade to aftermarket parts anyway because I'm going turbo?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If everything checks out okay, then the first thing you want to do is determine your budget. A turbo setup can go from a couple hundred to many many thousands of dollars.
Do a little searching in the forced induction forum (make sure you check archived posts as well) and see what you have to work with. You can basically go with:
1. A "junkyard turbo", which is basically getting a turbo from another stock turbo equipped vehicle, (usually small turbo) getting a manifold, some piping, etc. This can cost a couple hundred dollars and can get you some power. I'm personally not a fan of this.
2. A turbo kit usually includes everything you need to "plug and play" a turbo system on your car. Companies you can look/search for are Drag 3, RevHard, FullRace, Greddy, etc. They usually range from $2800+.
3. A "custom" turbo kit usually is the best, but usually costs quite a bit more. Here, you determine exactly what components you need and you get them separately.
Numbers 2 and 3 have almost limitless potential. As loudassVTEC said, your stock internals can hold about 8-10psi. But more importantly, it's not the boost level that your car can take, it's the power that it can handle. Boosting 10psi on a T88 turbo is considerably different than boosting 10psi on a TD-03. Your stock car can probably take almost 280whp.
If you want to make more than that, then you may want to look into upgrading your internals to something other than stock. Search the Forced Induction forum for more suggestions. If you're happy with that, which many people will be when they feel it, then you can save yourself several thousand dollars.
Believe me, 250whp in a Honda is VERY fast. The torque is the main thing that is amazing. Due to our gearing, weight, etc, 250whp can beat most cars out on the road if you can drive well.
Again, to emphasize the point several people have made, tuning is key. DO NOT skimp out on good tuning. When you're adding positive pressure into a system not designed for it, the smallest detail going wrong can negate the thousands of dollars you just put into your motor. Trust me, I know.
If everything checks out okay, then the first thing you want to do is determine your budget. A turbo setup can go from a couple hundred to many many thousands of dollars.
Do a little searching in the forced induction forum (make sure you check archived posts as well) and see what you have to work with. You can basically go with:
1. A "junkyard turbo", which is basically getting a turbo from another stock turbo equipped vehicle, (usually small turbo) getting a manifold, some piping, etc. This can cost a couple hundred dollars and can get you some power. I'm personally not a fan of this.
2. A turbo kit usually includes everything you need to "plug and play" a turbo system on your car. Companies you can look/search for are Drag 3, RevHard, FullRace, Greddy, etc. They usually range from $2800+.
3. A "custom" turbo kit usually is the best, but usually costs quite a bit more. Here, you determine exactly what components you need and you get them separately.
Numbers 2 and 3 have almost limitless potential. As loudassVTEC said, your stock internals can hold about 8-10psi. But more importantly, it's not the boost level that your car can take, it's the power that it can handle. Boosting 10psi on a T88 turbo is considerably different than boosting 10psi on a TD-03. Your stock car can probably take almost 280whp.
If you want to make more than that, then you may want to look into upgrading your internals to something other than stock. Search the Forced Induction forum for more suggestions. If you're happy with that, which many people will be when they feel it, then you can save yourself several thousand dollars.
Believe me, 250whp in a Honda is VERY fast. The torque is the main thing that is amazing. Due to our gearing, weight, etc, 250whp can beat most cars out on the road if you can drive well.
Again, to emphasize the point several people have made, tuning is key. DO NOT skimp out on good tuning. When you're adding positive pressure into a system not designed for it, the smallest detail going wrong can negate the thousands of dollars you just put into your motor. Trust me, I know.
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From: Bellevue, Washington, USA
Re: building ls? (shamoo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shamoo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. A "junkyard turbo", which is basically getting a turbo from another stock turbo equipped vehicle, (usually small turbo) getting a manifold, some piping, etc. This can cost a couple hundred dollars and can get you some power. I'm personally not a fan of this.
2. A turbo kit usually includes everything you need to "plug and play" a turbo system on your car. Companies you can look/search for are Drag 3, RevHard, FullRace, Greddy, etc. They usually range from $2800+.
3. A "custom" turbo kit usually is the best, but usually costs quite a bit more. Here, you determine exactly what components you need and you get them separately.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Once again, I couldn't of stated it any better. Words are perfectly stated. All of the options are perfectly valid and provide all with 'positive' results. It all depends on your goal and your budget.
1. A "junkyard turbo", which is basically getting a turbo from another stock turbo equipped vehicle, (usually small turbo) getting a manifold, some piping, etc. This can cost a couple hundred dollars and can get you some power. I'm personally not a fan of this.
2. A turbo kit usually includes everything you need to "plug and play" a turbo system on your car. Companies you can look/search for are Drag 3, RevHard, FullRace, Greddy, etc. They usually range from $2800+.
3. A "custom" turbo kit usually is the best, but usually costs quite a bit more. Here, you determine exactly what components you need and you get them separately.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Once again, I couldn't of stated it any better. Words are perfectly stated. All of the options are perfectly valid and provide all with 'positive' results. It all depends on your goal and your budget.
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From: oakland, CA, United States
Re: building ls? (justin.parker)
thanks for all the adivce guys! Hopefully I can put it to good use and there'll soon be another teg out there ready to tear some **** up. Let you guys know how everything works out. thanks again
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From: Springfield, Mass
Re: (fucktrial)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fucktrial »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">105k miles aint ****
you want best bang for the buck? nos that ****</TD></TR></TABLE>
He would probably blow the welds on his intake manifold. just my opinion...
you want best bang for the buck? nos that ****</TD></TR></TABLE>
He would probably blow the welds on his intake manifold. just my opinion...
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From: Marysville, OH
Re: (ohiohonda)
You have to be honest with your self, do you have and are you willing to spend the money on dropping in a k20? If this is a real possibility and not just some pipe dream then go for the k24block with with the k20a2head. Real nice motor to work with N/A or go with a light PSI since the swap lowers compression. However I would probably never turbo an engine with 105k that was a daily driver, but thats just my opinion. If you stick with the B-Series, I would recommend going N/A. Just my 2 cents.
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