Burning Clutch under normal driving conditions?
What would be the cause of a burning clutch under normal driving conditions? Doesnt happen all the time, just when im in 1st or reverse and on a somewhat steep hill or I have to ride it for a couple seconds.
Im also aware that my Clutch Master Cylinder is going bad, would this contribute to the problem? TIA!
Im also aware that my Clutch Master Cylinder is going bad, would this contribute to the problem? TIA!
It certainly could contribute, if your master is bad your clutch isn't getting the pressure its supose to and is probly not releasing all the way or engaging all the way, so in effect it is making you ride you clutch more than you already are.
clutch will be dead soon, id fix it quick
clutch will be dead soon, id fix it quick
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuracy r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What would be the cause of a burning clutch under normal driving conditions? Doesnt happen all the time, just when im in 1st or reverse and on a somewhat steep hill or I have to ride it for a couple seconds.
Im also aware that my Clutch Master Cylinder is going bad, would this contribute to the problem? TIA!</TD></TR></TABLE>
As BlackLudeSi said, a master cylinder going out can certainly contribute to this problem. However, the more important thing is, why are you "riding it for a couple of seconds?" I don't mean to flame, but learn to drive stick better. You shouldn't have to ride it at all, just engage it smoothly.
If a hill is THAT steep, where everyone would have to ride it (most probably not on a public road, and more in a parking lot/private road), then use the E-brake trick.
Riding the clutch and engaging it slowly does more harm and wear on the clutch disc than just engaging it fast/normally.
Im also aware that my Clutch Master Cylinder is going bad, would this contribute to the problem? TIA!</TD></TR></TABLE>
As BlackLudeSi said, a master cylinder going out can certainly contribute to this problem. However, the more important thing is, why are you "riding it for a couple of seconds?" I don't mean to flame, but learn to drive stick better. You shouldn't have to ride it at all, just engage it smoothly.
If a hill is THAT steep, where everyone would have to ride it (most probably not on a public road, and more in a parking lot/private road), then use the E-brake trick.
Riding the clutch and engaging it slowly does more harm and wear on the clutch disc than just engaging it fast/normally.
what does riding clutch mean?
how do i know if my Master Cylinder is bad? cause mine enggaging at almost off the floor. 40k miles, it might be the clutch tho...
how do i know if my Master Cylinder is bad? cause mine enggaging at almost off the floor. 40k miles, it might be the clutch tho...
I used to work with a guy who's wife used to let her foot sit on the clutch pedal as she drove. The stock clutch on her new car was toasted before she hit 30K miles.
If the clutch is slipping, then the engagement point is not correct and will cause excessive wear on the disk. It will eventually wear out and need replacement.
There are other circumstances for slipping clutch, but if your engagement point is really high, then it just isn't allowing the pressure plate to clamp the disk with enough force to grab, it just slips, wearing the disk.
I am lucky, I have a 2nd Gen Integra that uses a cable clutch, so I just spin a **** to correct the clutch engagement. But on the hydro clutches, when the system works properly, it will self adjust. But if the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder are faulty, or if you let the fluid get low and the system needs bleeding, the engagement point can be affected and the life of the clutch disk compromised.
If the clutch is slipping, then the engagement point is not correct and will cause excessive wear on the disk. It will eventually wear out and need replacement.
There are other circumstances for slipping clutch, but if your engagement point is really high, then it just isn't allowing the pressure plate to clamp the disk with enough force to grab, it just slips, wearing the disk.
I am lucky, I have a 2nd Gen Integra that uses a cable clutch, so I just spin a **** to correct the clutch engagement. But on the hydro clutches, when the system works properly, it will self adjust. But if the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder are faulty, or if you let the fluid get low and the system needs bleeding, the engagement point can be affected and the life of the clutch disk compromised.
It is very easy to check for an (obviously) bad clutch master/slave. For the master simply look at the back of the pedal, you will see a rod going into a rubber boot, if there is nasty film and fluid leaking out of that boot, your master is bad. As for the slave same thing, its on top/side of you trans faceing the front of the car. Same deal pull the boot back look for fluid or leaks, and if you loseing fluid out of the resevior...
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LSEGHATCH
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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May 2, 2006 06:18 AM





