Intake manifold removal steps for 97 SH
hey, i was wondering if anyone here has a helms manual (factory service manual), could they please scan me the section that has the steps to remove the intake manifold on a 97 SH. please email to romanoad@gmail.com. the shop says the ATTS box has to be removed and i need the pages to prove them wrong. thanks!
Yep - The atts unit must be removed. I have buddies at Honda that Told me it must be removed, & a company in Delaware just did turbo work for me, they also had to remove it for the intake manifold. So, Unless someone can prove both these shops wrong..........
crap, really? i've posted this question on here and preludepower.com and one guy said he looked in the helms and it was the same for the SH as it was for the base. i guess i will need to see the helms for myself. scans anyone???
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No you do not need to remove the atts to remove the intake manifold for SH models. All you need is a guy with some skinny arms and 1/4" ratchets, sockets, and extensions.
To reach the manifold nuts on the bottom, you reach around the top of the manifold, stick your arms between the manifld and firewall, and use a combination of extensions to reach the nuts.
Its a lot of blind work, but once you get it down, it becomes a lot easier since you know what combination of extensions to use and the angle of getting to the nuts.
To reach the manifold nuts on the bottom, you reach around the top of the manifold, stick your arms between the manifld and firewall, and use a combination of extensions to reach the nuts.
Its a lot of blind work, but once you get it down, it becomes a lot easier since you know what combination of extensions to use and the angle of getting to the nuts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typeshlude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No you do not need to remove the atts to remove the intake manifold for SH models. All you need is a guy with some skinny arms and 1/4" ratchets, sockets, and extensions.
To reach the manifold nuts on the bottom, you reach around the top of the manifold, stick your arms between the manifld and firewall, and use a combination of extensions to reach the nuts.
Its a lot of blind work, but once you get it down, it becomes a lot easier since you know what combination of extensions to use and the angle of getting to the nuts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
jesus christ, that seems like it would probably take as much time as taking the atts box out. i guess i can tell them that, but like, i doubt they will do it, haha.
To reach the manifold nuts on the bottom, you reach around the top of the manifold, stick your arms between the manifld and firewall, and use a combination of extensions to reach the nuts.
Its a lot of blind work, but once you get it down, it becomes a lot easier since you know what combination of extensions to use and the angle of getting to the nuts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
jesus christ, that seems like it would probably take as much time as taking the atts box out. i guess i can tell them that, but like, i doubt they will do it, haha.
Same thing I told the dude on preludepower. Instead of asking questions why don't you just go down there to the shop and point at the 10 12mm bolts or so you have to take off to get it off. It's a pain in the *** anyways because the iab vacuum tank is bolted to the bottom of it and the heater core hose is bolted to the bottom of it from block into firewall. There's also a 12 bolt that connects the bracket to intake manifold to the block in the bottom of the intake manifold you have to get loose or it isn't budging. Make sure to take that bolt out opposite direction because it goes straight up not bolted down. So you'd have your 12mm open end wrench pushing towards the right from the left side of the engine bay.
Last time I removed my atts I had to remove my tranny first just some food for thought. They're trying to **** you in the butt dude!
Last time I removed my atts I had to remove my tranny first just some food for thought. They're trying to **** you in the butt dude!
Not if you have arp headstuds it's not a piece of cake because the throttle body/tps sensor won't clear the fire wall because the head has to go straight up over the studs unless you take them all out first trust me!
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