first of all i want to go NA and i have a EG hatch so around 210-230 whp will be crazy fast .... im tryin to figure out what kind of problems they have ... like what usually goes wrong ... is it a good motor? give me your thoughts ...

 

rod bolts
sleeves
bearings
the bottom end really isnt made tom support high power or rpm...
however ive heard of turbo guys going over 450 whp with stock sleeves
i already started the build on mine....im going na hoping for 220 at wheels 150 torque...its going in an ef so it should be more than enough to put a hurtin on sum domestics at the track
but im stuck with a chassis wiring dilemma

 

Traction problems

 

well if the bottom end is built .... like sleeves bearings bolts and other stuff will it be a reliable motor?

 

yeah you should be good with a very good tuning session

 

i think so as long as you dont beat on your motor all the time .. i bet i will reach 50k miles with no problems .. just 48k more woohoo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neophyte210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well if the bottom end is built .... like sleeves bearings bolts and other stuff will it be a reliable motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

resleeve just go with an LS block same ****.

 

k first of all the lsv is the same as a b20
wiht the b20 your tq will go nuts if right tune
all you really need is jsut rod bolts, bearings, and just in case studs. and then a perfect tune.
your car should be really good then. but thats just the beginning. later down the road you could just save up on your pisons and rods. just remember that a b20 block spins 22 times/sec so your bolts better be holding.
good luck

 

i just put my motor together. i havent put it in yet just waiting on some little things.

i got the crank micropolished, ARP rod bolts, Wesico pistons, and new bearings. she should be good with a good tune

 

wat do you guyz mean by bearings?.....the bearings in the crank?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by biassj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Traction problems </TD></TR></TABLE>


No you won't. At least not unless you are dropping the clutch at 5000 on street tires.


The problems you will run into with tha tkind of setup are the following...

1. You WILL need a good EMS and a GOOD tuner.
2. You will have cold start issues if you have big *** cams.
3. Your gas mileage is going to be pretty bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by saver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">k first of all the lsv is the same as a b20
</TD></TR></TABLE>


They LS block and B20 block are different casts. Unless I am mistaken. Different metalurgy seeign as how the sleeves in the B20 are known to be weak. You'd be better off having a GSR block for a daily driver IMHO. Some folks remove the oil squirters, but since the R motors have them, and they assist in cooling the pistons I say keep em.

 

ls blocks and b20 blocks are different...b20's have a different sleeve design...also, if you're running forged pistons, you don't really need the oil squirters, this is why some people take them out of the gsr/type r blocks when building them...but i'd recommend oil squirters if you're running cast pistons.

 

coming froma build LS/Vtec I can tell u that u will have traction issues, and tuning if u use a chipped ecu, and well bad gas mileage

it is a great weekend car project but not a daily sorry nothing built is going to be

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ef2_civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">coming froma build LS/Vtec I can tell u that u will have traction issues </TD></TR></TABLE>


Why on earth do people make iggnorant comments like this? I drive an 89 mm stroke 84 mm bore (1972 cc) motor EVERY DAY and I have no traction issues. If you rev the **** out of it and drop th eclutch ANY FWD car is goign to break the tires loose

 

u will have no problems, trust me, i use to have one....stock b20vtec , take it to 9000krpm all the time, everytime i race with it, like fucken everyday...still runs strong *** expletive... lots of torque , toaste the **** out off my tires everytime i race tha **** .... so if u wanna put some better stuff in it, it would be even better....maybe jus a lil tuning is require....

 

b20 vtecs are the ****! im building mine through this winter i CANNOT wait to get that **** in and running!

what compression are you runnin? got my eagle rods and weisco pistons in a couple weeks ago...note:im runnin 12.3 compression

lookin for 220whp....lookin forward to see wut numbers u lay down man

 

77,000 miles on my b20/vtec, 3 years COMPLETLY STOCK BOTTOM END..stock sleeves...stock pistons...stock rod bolts....stock bearings...ARP head studs...and still puts down 181 at the wheels. If you dont beat them they will last forever.

 

when are you tryin to have it in and running by? just curious

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xEnderx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


They LS block and B20 block are different casts. Unless I am mistaken. Different metalurgy seeign as how the sleeves in the B20 are known to be weak. You'd be better off having a GSR block for a daily driver IMHO. Some folks remove the oil squirters, but since the R motors have them, and they assist in cooling the pistons I say keep em.</TD></TR></TABLE>

k nevermind wat i said about ls is the same as b20 cuase i finally did my research haha. and ya the b20 is hard to keep alive cause of its sleeve being as one instead of individuals.

question:
can you add a LS crank and aftermarket rods, pistons in a gsr block to make it have more tq. then just having all gsr?

 

can i put ctr cams with b20 vtec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xEnderx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You'd be better off having a GSR block for a daily driver IMHO. </TD></TR></TABLE>

1 1/2 years that I have a 12:1 b20vtec running 91 octane and its still running strong as hell

proper tuning and oil circulation is key

i'm from montreal (quebec canada) and i drive my car in the snow all the time, its actually the car I use to go snowboardin and so far, I've had absolutely NO ISSUE. yes b20 sleeves are weak, but they can EASILY handle 250whp when tuned properly....

 

I've had my b20/Vtec for a lil over a year now.
JE-Pistons - Stock Compression-It's my daily Driver so i kept the compression stock. Good for Nitrous
Eagle Rods
Ard Bolts
Skunk2 Stage 2 cams
Mild port and Polish head
type r water/oil pump &lt;- you're gonna need those.
Dc Header
Stock USDM type R Exhaust.
AEM Cold Air intake.
Hondata Tuned by Churchs!!! &lt;--Highly recommended
my car has 197 HP 147lbs of torque.
I could have pushed more out but I'm not even trying to max out my cars performance yet. I do plan on bumping up compression and the piping to 2.5" when I buy a new car and turn the b20/hatch into a drag car. But the car, the way it is now, is good enough to beat alot of other N/A cars out here in the streets of Southern Cali on my 25 min drive to work everyday. I built this car for fun and the numbers i posted are to give you a rough estimate or what kind of power this car can make and yet be reliable. I've had no problems at all. I upgraded all my motor mounts and my car vibrates like crazy. Only gripe would be the traction!! but I have Hondata with Full Throttle Shifting, that really helps me out on my races bacause i don't loose traction on 2nd and 3rd gear. My car looks completely stock, just a little dropped. Sleeper was exactly what i was aiming for. I was told if i even upgraded to 11 compression with 2.5" piping I would be will over 215hp. I don't mash my car everyday, only when i need to. no problems here!

 

thos are great numbers on that motor with those mods wat are you redlining and wat are your shift points with the hondata. o and wat IM and fueling are you runing. i dont expect big fueling cuase of the stock CP. are you planing to sleeve the block sooner or later, cause of the horrible one sleeve they got.
good help!!!

 

I'm not sure if someone mentioned this before but gas won't be to bad. Get an LS 5th gear and it shouldnt be to bad That's what I did