2000 GSR ecu --> 2000 ITR ecu

Besides the proper exhaust/camshaft/valvetrain setup (I already know about the secondaries, vtec points and revlimiter), what is required to make this swap problem free, ie. immobilizer, check engine light, etc.

I've searched and read many posts, just can't seem to get a straight answer to my question.
Thanks in advance to any replies.

 

I don't want to remove the immobilizer.

I called the dealer today; the guy on the phone told me the immobilizer has nothing to do with the ecu and that it is a seperate unit.

Can anyone confirm this? I read it needs to be reprogrammed.

 

What am I missing? You're putting a '00 ITR ecu in place of an '00 GSR ecu. With no other modification? Why? But otherwise, it should plug right in. The immobilizer unit is a separate unit from the ECU but it does tell the ECU whether or not it should start the car. If you want to see, just plug it in. If your car cranks but doesn't start, then you may need to have the keys reprogammed.

 

Trying to do research before I start buying things that won't work.

The plan is:
1) mugen intake
2) ITR camshafts
3) ITR skunk2 IM and ITR ecu
4) JDM ITR header
5) mugen or ITR exhaust

That is the order of plans that will start to happen very soon.

Until then, has anyone done this ecu swap successfully? Or do I need to revise the plans?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ajbucci &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't want to remove the immobilizer.

I called the dealer today; the guy on the phone told me the immobilizer has nothing to do with the ecu and that it is a seperate unit.

Can anyone confirm this? I read it needs to be reprogrammed. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive dealt with this bs type R ecu removed immobolizer...what the the dealer talking about the immobolizer is a seperate unit. The immobolizer is inside the ecu and you have to removed it. If you do this, you will have a constant cel light. If you dont want the cel...you must have a exact key match with the ecu so you dont have a check engine light.

 

if you put in an itr ecu, you'll need to get all your keys reprogrammed for the immobilizer to work and your car to start. immobilizers don't really help too much in terms of preventing theft.

you're better off getting an odb2-1 conversion harness and getting a chipped ecu with a basemap designed for your mods for your car to run right and get the most our of your modifications.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc24me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....immobilizers don't really help too much in terms of preventing theft....</TD></TR></TABLE>

What makes you say that dc24me? I've seen a lot of stolen integras role through my old work. The one's they didn't get were the one's with immobilizers. And it wasn't until just recently that a crack team of super computer nerds just came up with a very big, bulky and expensive way to emulate it.

BTW, if you do have your keys reprogrammed you'll need the ITR's VIN. But if you wanted to bypass it all together, wouldn't a 97 ITR ECU work? They didn't have immobilizers back then.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kchungb17a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What makes you say that dc24me? I've seen a lot of stolen integras role through my old work. The one's they didn't get were the one's with immobilizers. </TD></TR></TABLE>

some theives carry around their own ecus.

 

Anyone know the cost of getting my key reprogrammed?

ajbucci&lt;-----kicks himself for not buying an R in the first place

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc24me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

some theives carry around their own ecus. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yep ...you can carry a second removed immobolizer and just plug it up to 99-01 integras and steal it that way or just get a ecu jumper with obd1 ecu and run it...doesnt matter if it runs right...as long as its out of your parking lot...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ajbucci &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone know the cost of getting my key reprogrammed?

ajbucci&lt;-----kicks himself for not buying an R in the first place</TD></TR></TABLE>

honestly with your mods...i would screw the type R ecu or trying to find a key programed. Save the hassle and just get a p28 w/ hondata. I guranteed you if you go with hondata and your mods...with dyno tuning....you'll see increase in power...Ive dealt with this itr ecu for so long now that I finally ran a p28 hondata and I can honestly say Im much happier....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CNSK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

honestly with your mods...i would screw the type R ecu or trying to find a key programed. Save the hassle and just get a p28 w/ hondata. I guranteed you if you go with hondata and your mods...with dyno tuning....you'll see increase in power...Ive dealt with this itr ecu for so long now that I finally ran a p28 hondata and I can honestly say Im much happier....</TD></TR></TABLE>


I'm starting to think this is the better way to go. No immobilizer, however better performance with less hassle...... Thanks for the response

 

Get a JDM ITR ecu, no immobiliser but you will have a 120mph speed limiter (but thats also easily removed by fitting an RSM)